After CVT oil change power was lost

[Alexbmd]

Hi

Was replaced 50% of CVT oil.

Before replace my car had enough power to move/drive my car on small (or even medium) slide without touch gas pedal. just releasing brake pedal and car start moving to up.

After replacing oil, car can moving without touch gas pedal only on flat road  or very small slope.

 

Please advise what to check or how to increase power in moment when I release brake pedal but w/o depress gas pedal?

PS: ODO 84000

[PCM]

I would take it back to whoever did the job...?

Assuming that's an option...

[ghost2255]

Oil level too low?

[Mjolinor]

Why do you think it is not right?

Certainly different behavior after an oil change is not unusual.

[flash22]

with the handbrake on start the engine foot on the brake and move it through the gears allowing 20-30 seconds in each gear to purge the air out of the valve body and torque converter

then check the level

what fluid did you use ?. If it is ATF you need to drain it ASAP (if it is a Yaris) and hope it hasn't done any damage, CVT's require the correct fluid*

 

You have posted in the Yaris forum, is this issue with a Yaris or Avensis as in your info ??

The Avensis cvt fill and drain requires the correct procedure to be followed

[Alexbmd]

5 hours ago, ghost2255 said:

Oil level too low?

no. by thedoc.

4 hours ago, Mjolinor said:

Why do you think it is not right?

its working yes. the pressure when I stay on the traffic light 0.6Mpa. when riding 40-60 km/h around 1MPa sometimes rare  2MPa. but usually shouldn't be any changes after refill new oil.

3 hours ago, flash22 said:

with the handbrake

with new oil I already passed ~200km
 

3 hours ago, flash22 said:

what fluid did you use ?

toyota fe
 

[Alexbmd]

7 hours ago, Alexbmd said:

Was replaced 50% of CVT oil.

 

forgot to mention. new cvt filter and magnet cleaned also.

[flash22]

You have posted in the Yaris forum, is this issue with a Yaris or Avensis as in your info ?? if it is a Yaris what year and is it the 1.33 or 1.5

The Avensis cvt fill and drain requires the correct procedure to be followed

[Alexbmd]

2 hours ago, flash22 said:

You have posted

my bad, misprint. auris k313.

2 hours ago, flash22 said:

cvt fill and drain requires

yes I know. but can't understand what you want to say. what is the q?

[flash22]

There is a correct method for filling and checking the level

https://www.dropbox.com/s/td5b3tj4v3qd64z/k311_2_3 adjust.pdf?e=1&dl=0

 

 

[inteli7]

38 minutes ago, flash22 said:

There is a correct method for filling and checking the level

https://www.dropbox.com/s/td5b3tj4v3qd64z/k311_2_3 adjust.pdf?e=1&dl=0

 

 

Is this from Toyota-tech.eu? Do you have any procedure for the 1.5L Hybrid CVT?

[flash22]

this is for the conventional CVT

 

the e-cvt P510 in the hybrid is a direct gear drive with a lifetime screen, no oil pan, and no torque converter - it's more a kin a manual gearbox with a fill and a drain

3.3 Liters ATF WS (dry fill), fill, and drain bolts are 50 Nm - Fill till it runs out the fill hole or within 8mm of the bottom lip of the hole

 

[Alexbmd]

3 hours ago, flash22 said:

There is a correct method for filling and checking the level

thank you yes I know how. and level was setup accordingly .

[flash22]

did you adjust the fluid temperatures?

[Alexbmd]

21 minutes ago, flash22 said:

did you adjust the fluid temperatures?

yes by Teachstream

[flash22]

recheck the fluid levels, the only other thing that springs to mind is you have a bad filter/aftermarket junk or removed the o-ring/didn't replace it, have 2 o-rings on it, mangled it when fitting it, or used the old one - that will cause your symptoms as its pulling in air instead of fluid, aerating the fluid what can cause cavitation

 

[Alexbmd]

3 hours ago, flash22 said:

have 2 o-rings on it

the one oring is 35330E yes. but where is the second one ?

if you mean that I put 2 orings on filter neck - no 🙂 there is only 1 oring

[Alexbmd]

14 hours ago, flash22 said:

have 2 o-rings on it

btw, even if filter neck has 2 oring on it - it's not a problem. I have worked earlier little bit with pressure and orings. Problem is when size of oring is  incorrect or its absence

[flash22]

mistakes happen, we are only human

with 2 o-rings in place, the filter may not sit or seal correctly it's a very common mistake made on all types of filters

 

if you didn't have the issue before and you only changed the filter and fluid they are your likely cause

[Alexbmd]

24 minutes ago, flash22 said:

mistakes happen, we are only human

yes sure.

I understand that cause is in that was changed.... 
but if I come to the service center no one will see the problem. I see it because I know how the car worked before the replacement.
 

do you what should be the oil pressure when I stay in D on the traffic light?

[flash22]

Fluid pressure (Throttle valve fully open)*1      Drive                                4000 to 5200 kPa (40.8 to 53.0 kgf/cm2, 580 to 754 psi)   *1: Connect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (GC) of the DLC3 when measuring the fluid pressure.     the reason I suspect air is getting in is the lack of drive, air compresses, but the fluid does not - think of it as air in a brake line

[Alexbmd]

23 minutes ago, flash22 said:

4000 to 5200 kPa

this is engine stall speed test. not regular value.

for example what I have: when just start engine (morning) I see 1.5MPa in P. when engine is heated I see 0.6MPa.
but I dont know reference value