Newbie, with some queries. First Toyota

[Gmacalex]

Thanks Torrox, quite a bit out of price range unfortunately.

[GBgraham]

13 hours ago, Gmacalex said:

Thanks Torrox, quite a bit out of price range unfortunately.

What at 500 quid 😮

[Gmacalex]

Ok here attached is the live data from car, whilst parked so might not be any use. Don't know what I am looking for if anyone can see an issue that would be helpful. I think the car felt like it was trying to rev through the range today so maybe the various cleaners are starting to take effect, fingers crossed.           Thanks

PDF document-48B2-8B21-43-0.pdf

[Torrox]

7 hours ago, GBgraham said:

What at 500 quid 😮

£294 here. Yesterday was £285.

https://www.xtool.co.uk/wholesale/xtool-d7-scan-tool.html?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8YfWnbTChAMV85NQBh0YQQHJEAAYAyAAEgKqRPD_BwE

[GBgraham]

14 hours ago, Gmacalex said:

Ok here attached is the live data from car, whilst parked so might not be any use. Don't know what I am looking for if anyone can see an issue that would be helpful. I think the car felt like it was trying to rev through the range today so maybe the various cleaners are starting to take effect, fingers crossed.           Thanks

PDF document-48B2-8B21-43-0.pdf 56.17 kB · 3 downloads

You do need live data under driving conditions and especially through the lack of power range, does your scantool give graphs? I would forget about injection pump being a problem as it's good pressure at idle. ( tbh it there was a problem it would be bad to start) When the car is struggling to accelerate, do you hear anything different from the engine, muffled, quieter, etc or the opposites?

[GBgraham]

Is there anyway of you getting the engine/fuel data information sheets for your vehicle because it's very difficult to proceed without this, "Autodata" is the daddy!

Also, please specify what you have already changed, cleaned of tampered with?

[Gmacalex]

Thank you all for sticking with this, day to day driving its not such an issue, but I do have to regulary head up North to see my Dad, the drive is mostly A roads so overtaking is necessary, lorries, motorhomes etc, I have driven these roads for decades in all sorts of cars, my last journey in the Rav 4 I was unable to safely overtake with no confidence car would maintain power.

I will try over the weekend to get actual driving live data, I will continue with additives. I have changed air filter, fuel filter was changed 6 months ago, less than 2000 thousand miles by previous owner, no reason to doubt as he provided receipts etc and all other works seem to have been done as stated. I have ordered a fuel filter just in case.

There are no strange noises, the feeling is similar to driving into a gust of headwind in a van, kind of wants to go but can't quite get there, perhaps more hard miles will clear whatever it is that's stopping car perform, I just have a fear of an expensive repair such as Turbo etc that's economically not great at the moment.

Anyway appreciate all the help and suggestions, all I have spent so far is for additives and filters so no major pain. 

[GBgraham]

Okay I am assuming as I did from the start that with it coming from an elderly gent and probably lived on short journeys that I believe somewhere it is severely carboned up.

To sum up you have use fuel cleaner, maybe a tank or two of Shell Vpower, and a good old thrashing which should have burned out some or most of the carbon crap, but this seems to have drawn a blank. The only code you are giving is lack of power which is your immediate problem so nothing new there.

Points to pay attention to is, EGR, SCV, DPF, VGT, so take you pick. I'm almost sure that the fuel delivery will be just fine, direct injection needs a minimum of 250bar just to start and you are getting 300+

Once again good luck

[Gmacalex]

Update again, I purchased a cheap MAF sensor from eBay, why well in the past with different cars cleaning or replacing the MAF sensor has often been a fix for issues that were otherwise not being fixed. Anyway plan was to replace with cheap MAF, then clean current MAF in the house let it dry etc and see if the cheap one improved or did anything. The car drove ok, quite a bit of kangarooing hiccups etc but significantly when in the power band the cars pick up was way better, kind of how I thought the car would drive, however by the time I had done around 20 miles or so, engine light came on, 4wd light came on, pretty much a Christmas tree dashboard. Got home cleared codes removed the cheap MAF and replaced with previous now clean MAF,  took car out, car drove as previous ok, but no power, checked codes and nothing to be seen. Would the next stage be to disconnect this MAF I know engine light etc will come to see if it makes any difference, or buy a proper MAF sensor as there clearly is an issue there.  

Thanks

[Cyker]

Thanks for keeping us in the loop; This is the sort of thing I wish we had someone like Diagnose Dan for! He'd be able to verify the function of the MAF to say if it needed replacing or not...

[GBgraham]

20 hours ago, Gmacalex said:

Update again, I purchased a cheap MAF sensor from eBay, why well in the past with different cars cleaning or replacing the MAF sensor has often been a fix for issues that were otherwise not being fixed. Anyway plan was to replace with cheap MAF, then clean current MAF in the house let it dry etc and see if the cheap one improved or did anything. The car drove ok, quite a bit of kangarooing hiccups etc but significantly when in the power band the cars pick up was way better, kind of how I thought the car would drive, however by the time I had done around 20 miles or so, engine light came on, 4wd light came on, pretty much a Christmas tree dashboard. Got home cleared codes removed the cheap MAF and replaced with previous now clean MAF,  took car out, car drove as previous ok, but no power, checked codes and nothing to be seen. Would the next stage be to disconnect this MAF I know engine light etc will come to see if it makes any difference, or buy a proper MAF sensor as there clearly is an issue there.  

Thanks

Yes you can drive with the MAF disconnected, the ECU will just hold at it's nominal factory value.

Just fitting OEM or high end parts on a whim can work out expensive but fitting cheap parts is even more expensive. In doing this you can put unrecognised values to the ECU and a cure will never come along and I think you have just proved this.

[Gmacalex]

Appreciate point taken. Will try with MaF disconnected this morning.

[Gmacalex]

Update - Ok, so drove with MAF disconnected, car felt much the same , but with a Christmas tree of warning messages and lights, reconnected MAF, all lights codes cleared, car was maybe a little quieter  performance was  marginally better than when MAF disconnected. Check codes after a fairly long drive, none shown. Perhaps MAF does have fault who knows, going to try a DIY smoke test to see if there are any leaks at some point this week.

[GBgraham]

20 minutes ago, Gmacalex said:

Update - Ok, so drove with MAF disconnected, car felt much the same , but with a Christmas tree of warning messages and lights, reconnected MAF, all lights codes cleared, car was maybe a little quieter  performance was  marginally better than when MAF disconnected. Check codes after a fairly long drive, none shown. Perhaps MAF does have fault who knows, going to try a DIY smoke test to see if there are any leaks at some point this week.

It would light as it was telling you that there no information coming from the MAF sensor to the ECU. I thought your code reader gave live data, why not get some values under load while driving?

[Gmacalex]

Hi, I will try the live data under load just not had a passenger with me when driving etc, hopefully sort that this week. Thanks

[Gmacalex]

Hi, 

Just an update, I have been unable to save live data when car is under load, my reader only saves live data at idle for some reason. Anyway there has been no improvement in power, overtaking still a significant problem, car is averaging around 30mpg which isn't great. I have changed the fuel filter, air filter , cabin filter I have used various cleaners in the fuel and Shell Vpower but no change at all.

I have attached a picture to confirm this is my egr, can this be removed or cleaned I searched the tutorials but none seems to match, advice on this would be appreciated. Thanks

[Gmacalex]

Hi

Just a further update I changed the Suction Control Valve, having read through the various forums etc it seemed it could have been the significant issue with lack of power, unfortunately it did not change anything, so I guess now its the Egr next, very unsure how this will be accessed and removed but hopefully get a chance for a better look over the weekend. Thanks

[GBgraham]

Certainly looks like the one . . . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285046770530?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iJcEmUwuTH-&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=qCh40osYS1C&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Gmacalex]

37 minutes ago, GBgraham said:

Certainly looks like the one . . . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285046770530?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iJcEmUwuTH-&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=qCh40osYS1C&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Thank you, think I will have a go at detaching and having a clean to see if that makes any difference at all, if not then will try this. I have checked for leaks with wd40 and tried a basic smoke test using smoke tablets, but everything seemed fine. Really appreciate the continued responses and advice. Thanks

[Gmacalex]

Update - Cleaned the EGR well hopefully that's what it was , not a difficult job just a bit fiddly even for someone as limited as me. The pipe and egr were black but not caked, so cleaned up ok. I have attached images in case anyone  is going to do this on later models, only driven car around the block, will drive over the weekend fingers crossed some sort of improvement. 

[Gmacalex]

Update - Unfortunately this has not made any difference to the lack or performance or low mpg. Please if there are any other suggestions please suggest.

 

Thanks

[GBgraham]

14 hours ago, Gmacalex said:

Update - Unfortunately this has not made any difference to the lack or performance or low mpg. Please if there are any other suggestions please suggest.

 

Thanks

Unfortunately when diagnosing an undocumented fault as in no fault codes, I'm afraid it comes down to a process of elimination, i.e. to find what it's not rather than what it is. Lack of performance and poor fuel may lead to a turbo problem. 

You yourself will have to decide what to do next, trying to diagnose remotely is nearly impossible, all any of us can do is pass on experiences and/or suggestions.

Failing all this the move would be to bite the bullet and put it in the hands of a professional. 

[Gmacalex]

Thank you for continued interaction, I have tried to find a garage locally (Glasgow) that is vaguely interested in looking at the car, but most have either 2-3 week wait or just don’t want to do it, I am hoping a garage I have used before get back to me this week with a date they have a diagnostic machine and can do smoke tests etc.

i should have perhaps tried harder to make the flap thing in the egr move/open, but may be it just doesn’t when not powered. My gut having had egr problems in other cars that it is egr related, it’s consistent whether cars is cold or warm. Going to leave it for a few days and hope the garage get back to me. 

 

[Gmacalex]

Hi, have fitted new Denso EGR, covered 300mls or so, no difference to power or mpg, no codes, runs a bit quieter that's about it.

[Torrox]

24 minutes ago, Gmacalex said:

Hi, have fitted new Denso EGR, covered 300mls or so, no difference to power or mpg, no codes, runs a bit quieter that's about 

I feel so sorry for your trouble. I am not a mechanic but what about the exhaust? It's a diesel engine right? So it should have a DPF what if the filter is all clogged up? Is it worth to try a second hand exhaust?