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Drivers window not working


Thomas76
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Good morning all. Looking for some advice please. My drivers side window as stopped working. I’ve replaced the motor and now the switch but still nothing? Any ideas please ( Toyota Yaris 2014 64 plate)

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Fuse?

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Fuse would always be the first thing to check if any motor fails. 

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Where would I find the fuse please? I did check fuses but might of checked the wrong one?

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Wiring loom where it flexes between the door and A pillar is often favourite.

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24 minutes ago, bathtub tom said:

Wiring loom where it flexes between the door and A pillar is often favourite.

How would I be able to do that?

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The rest of the switch works ( passenger side switch, window lock and door lock all works it’s just the driver’s window switch?

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4 hours ago, Thomas76 said:

How would I be able to do that?

You could open the door and move the loom around and see if that makes the window work, not very conclusive. Otherwise you'll have to unplug it and check continuity by tapping out the wires with a meter.

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drivers window is controlled directly by the switch, the only other thing that goes to the motor is the power

 

fuses 24, 25, and 26 in the internal fusebox driver-side window are usually a 30 amp square fuse (pec or micro M)

https://fuse-box.info/toyota/toyota-yaris-vitz-xp140-2011-2018-fuses-and-relay

1935269861_IMAGE2022-05-02184906.jpg.b73

 

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Hi flash. Where would I be able to get this type of fuse from please? I’ve tried some motor factors with no luck I’ve also tried Toyota who wanted £22 odd for a fuse?

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You could try a breakers yard, it shouldn't cost much for a fuse if they don't know the value.

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Thank you for your replies. I’ve now got one and fitted it but still the drivers side window isn’t working? I got the motor from eBay and the switch to. I’m now out of ideas and was hoping that someone on this thread could help and give me some ideas please?

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do you get 12V at the motor (2 fat wires at the motor)

do you have front and rear electric windows or just the fronts

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13 hours ago, flash22 said:

do you get 12V at the motor (2 fat wires at the motor)

do you have front and rear electric windows or just the fronts

Just front electric windows? I think I get 12volts but need to check again.

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Outside the box.   No idea if this applies to your car but the drivers window on my Yaris Cross 'failed' open.  This was potentially very awkward.

I checked fuses, all the other windows worked.   Booked it in for repair.  At the garage I explained the problem.   The mechanic came out, did some switching magic, no OBD device, and reset the software. 

Could that be your problem?

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It would seem you're using the 'scatter gun' method, favoured by garages, by throwing parts at it without diagnosing the problem. If you've multi-meter and know how to use it, do some testing. Otherwise, you may save money by getting an auto electrician to look at it.

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5 hours ago, Roy124 said:

Outside the box.   No idea if this applies to your car but the drivers window on my Yaris Cross 'failed' open.  This was potentially very awkward.

I checked fuses, all the other windows worked.   Booked it in for repair.  At the garage I explained the problem.   The mechanic came out, did some switching magic, no OBD device, and reset the software. 

Could that be your problem?

Good afternoon. What do you mean by switching magic? How did he reset the software without obd?

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Thomas, that was the magic bit.  I couldn't follow what he did.  Simply it was a procedure in the hand book.  Naturally it is not under fauits or in the index but in the section on windows.

It is usually a particular switch sequence.   Just ask your garage.  If it is dead easy there should be no charge. 

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If you have 12v to the motor the issue must be on the control side

the mk4 setup is vastly different to the mk3

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On 2/29/2024 at 9:12 AM, Roy124 said:

Outside the box.   No idea if this applies to your car but the drivers window on my Yaris Cross 'failed' open.  This was potentially very awkward.

I checked fuses, all the other windows worked.   Booked it in for repair.  At the garage I explained the problem.   The mechanic came out, did some switching magic, no OBD device, and reset the software. 

Could that be your problem?

Good evening. I thought I would just let you guys know that I think I might of found the issue that I was having. I found a broken wire between the door and car ? Please see photo 🤞🏻this is what is causing the problem.IMG_3062.thumb.jpeg.835b4fea9e7f7a6713d00ae4428768a1.jpeg

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Just now, Thomas76 said:

Good evening. I thought I would just let you guys know that I think I might of found the issue that I was having. I found a broken wire between the door and car ? Please see photo 🤞🏻this is what is causing the problem. Just got to some how get to the other piece so I can splice them together.IMG_3062.thumb.jpeg.835b4fea9e7f7a6713d00ae4428768a1.jpeg

 

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that will do it at a guess that is either a 12 supply or LIN bus

edit. looked it up its 12v Battery supply to the switch

run a new wire from inside the door to inside the car

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