Daylight running lights fuse/relay

[Jumpman]

Hey,

2016 Yaris here, my passenger side automatic drl doesnt come on.

They're the same bulbs as the manual low beams, which both come on, so there's no problem with the bulb.

Does anyone know whether it's a fuse or a relay thats at fault? And where to find it please...

Cheers

[Bernard Foy]

Fuses are behind glove box, you will need to remove it. 

[flash22]

16 plate should have led drls's - high and low are 1 single bulb projector style, unless you are a base level active or icon then its a case of a blown bulb

Base model

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276314230753

LED drl

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166253079397

[flash22]

2 minutes ago, Bernard Foy said:

Fuses are behind glove box, you will need to remove it. 

mk3 and 4 are in the same place  there accessed from the footwell

https://fuse-box.info/toyota/toyota-yaris-vitz-xp140-2011-2018-fuses-and-relay

 

 

[Jumpman]

Thanks Guys, its an Icon Vvt-I. They are definately bulbs, and definately not blown. They both come on when i manually turn on my lows. When the engines on and lights are off only the driver side comes on.

There are multiple fuse/relay boxes, 2 are under the bonnet and one of the relays has a reference to drl, but im not sure what im looking for with this specific symptom...

 

Cheers!

[Stevie J]

There are 2 filaments in the DRL bulb ie, its a twin filament bulb - the same one as fitted in the tail/stop lights on the back of the car. Just because the low beam lamp (5W filament) (sidelight) comes on, does not mean the other filament (21W - DRL) in the bulb is OK. Very often the DRL filament will burn out first before the one for the sidelights does.

Its a 580 bulb for reference

[Stevie J]

When the sidelights are on and engine on, only the 5W filament will be lit. Once the sidelights are turned off and the engine is running with the handbrake released, the sidelight filament will turn off and the 21W filament should light up. It wont if its blown. My advice - change the bulb first before worrying about fuses. Or you could remove the suspect bulb and swap it for the one on the other side of the car, and see if the issue then moves to the other side. If so, the DRL filament in the bulb has failed.

[Jumpman]

I seeee, that makes sense. Thanks Stevie...

I see there are dual filament LED bulbs that look to be the same spec/connector, can i use them to replace?

 

[Stevie J]

Personally, I would not - the lenses and mirroring of the DRL part of the headlamp assembly were designed for the focal point from the designated filament to be correct to emit a powerful beam of light during daylight from just a 21W bulb, and to use a lamp that the unit was not designed for could mean the DRL's are not as visible as they should be, and also could be an MOT fail. Of course, it's your car and if you think LED aftermarket bulbs would perform to the same ability as incandescent filament bulbs then it would be your call. I know some Yaris models of the same year actually do come with LED DRL's as standard, but I'd rather have the bulb type that the Icon uses as if the LED units fail, they cant be replaced cheaply unlike the bulb type where all you need to buy is a couple of bulbs costing peanuts.

[Jumpman]

Can't dispute the logic, I'll score some direct replacement bulbs...

Thanks for all replies! 

[MikeSh]

Going back several decades when it was just Volvos had DRLs they used the same 12/5W bulb type in the front DRL/park assembly as the rear brake/park lamps. They were the type with the metal cap and offset pins to try and stop people fitting them 180° out (but to this day - well, a few days ago - I see cars where this has still been done).

The difference was that the OEM DRL bulbs were built for continuous use whereas brake lights are only intermittent, though these days that seems less and less true (there's another thread for that 🙂 ). I replaced blown DRLs in our first Volvo with standard Halfords 21/5 and they lasted a couple of months before blowing. Then bought a Volvo pair and they lasted a very long time (probably till I sold the car).

[Jumpman]

Hi Mike, I'm looking at these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Osram-7515-02B-Original-Equipment-blister/dp/B007RLX1BA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=3NWFJVW0279FB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.s9-eY-n6ZNccSqnWhYOCs7SN5zR4HNKvMT3H8Jjp529gYsfQCxJakL7XBrTXKoE-RPOMxA2QfBL1pLLOH8UO19vkjVB6kvl8lTPmAYxEHkKclNQQgLkUwRqH5t5DG_vorR4Z3G3GxZwGqUA2uqM4Z_-XnRQPfG2NvjkrM-kf-BA53RMf9zBBgDM6cfTipWAjTx881hdVxn3vdapmRhmO8g.yvzfekAGhyPSqnNmO-DNH_aclNyjeHBn42HJ86F0K4I&dib_tag=se&keywords=osram+w21%2F5w&qid=1709300081&sprefix=osram+w21%2F5w%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-2

Are you saying I need to pay attention to orientation when fitting?

Cheers

 

[MikeSh]

1 hour ago, Jumpman said:

I'm looking at these

I'd hope they will be fine as long as they aren't knock-offs. (I wouldn't penny pinch for DRLs and get unbranded from eBay for example.)

1 hour ago, Jumpman said:

Are you saying I need to pay attention to orientation when fitting?

No, these wedges are ok if you look at the pictures - the contacts are symmetrical, so it can go in either way round.

The metal capped ones used a common return (the cap) and two pads in the base. If inserted the wrong way round you get 21W tail light and 5W brake. The staggered pins are meant to prevent that but ignorance means people often just force it in and don't notice the different brightnesses.