Pairing a new transponder without Techstream possible?

[74hct04]

I have a problem where one of my (mechanical) keys has broken; the blade has broken away the internal plastic 'cage' that holds it captive within the moulding. Whilst I am waiting to see if my JB Weld fix holds (which I am not holding out too much hope for), I have found that Toyota do have a part number for a new 'blade and case assembly' (8975212140), which can then be paired up with a nice new back cover (8975152140).

If I do have to go down the route of ordering the above (and getting the new blade cut), it looks as though the 'blade and case assembly' comes with a pre-glued-in transponder. (I am happy to transfer over the remote central locking electronics - that's easy, but to nodistructively transplant the transponder into the recipient is slighly more challenging).

TLDR: Is Techstream required to pair a new transponder (not the remote) to an iQ (mine is the base model with remote central locking and a mechanical key blade) or can you do some kind of trick with opening and closing doors and cycling the ignition on these cars?

[flash22]

If it is a remote key the immobilizer is a passive chip in the corner you just need to pop the chip out and move it to a new key - you may want to upgrade to a flip key

 

The remote locking is independent of the passive immobilizer chip

 

 

 

 

 

[flash22]

looks like the Toyota parts bit special key as used on lots of models - the chip on this type of fob is in the edge of the remote buttons

https://youtu.be/IiXI6IbtDAU?si=QT_MrzOic76mvFk_

 

[74hct04]

Thank you flash22. It's actually a different type to that in the video.

If you open the zoomed view of the top photo on this ebay listing you can see the transponder, flanked by a triangular hole and a rectangular hole . It's stuck in with some fairly tough glue or epoxy so I am a little worried about swapping them over without breaking the transponder's ferrite(?). I am sure I could remove the transponder of the broken key by cutting it out, but removing the one from the new key without destroying the slot it goes into is not something I am 100% confident I can do.

Probably worth the gamble for ~£15+p&p from Amayama and whatever it costs to get the blade cut locally, I guess... 48hrs later and I am nearly brave enough to remove my clamp and see if the JB Weld works!... Nearly 😉

[74hct04]

Just found this video. Slightly different version of the key as this one's a 4 button but mine broke in an identical manner to this. (If Google image search is anything to go by it's a fairly common failure mode of this kind of key).

He starts with super glue, I started with JB Weld. I'd rather keep the key looking OEM than result in a big old domed nut showing, but I could follow his lead!
🫤
 

 

[74hct04]

The JB Weld seems to have done the trick -it's holding up to normal twisting plus a little extra force- but time will tell. Anyway, the repaired key is now my spare.

To be on the safe-side, I have ordered the new key body and back cover from Amayama and -if I need to use it- will remove the transponder from the new key body with hot air and the transponder from the old one by cutting up the key.  Assuming I've extracted the transponder from the new key body without damaging it, I will then get the new blade cut before completing the swap.

Thanks again, flash22.

[flash22]

depending on the glue a drop of isopropyl alcohol should break it down if it's a rubber Silastic a sharp blade will do it - the chip is the size of a grain of rice in a resin

That is a 08-12 type key, 4D67 chip iirc

[74hct04]

Thanks. I have plenty of isopropanol, a healthy supply of scalpels and an adjustable hot air station (the clue is in the username 🙂), so I should be able to do it.

I just have to wait about 6 weeks for the package to arrive from UAE now!