Auris 1.33l 1NR-FE 2011 very slow to start sometimes

[MrOtto]

My 2011 Auris 1.33l 1NR-FE is very slow to start sometimes. It seems like it's the ignition that is the problem. Spark plugs are wet and smells of gasoline. I just swapped the Battery, because the slow starting long cranking killed the Battery, but it still slow to start. The stater motor runs fine with the new Battery. And I replaced the spark plug. I got it to start after long cranking, and then it ran at only 500 rpm idle, but it seemed to adjust it self and runs at 800rpm now. Hot start afterwards now was no problem. But last time this happened, cold start was no problem, but a cold start just 1 hour later was very slow.

It's not low on power when the motor runs, so maybe not the coils? New spark plugs did not help. Maybe a faulty sensor data somewhere, giving the wrong mixture and/or ignition on startup?

[Mooly]

There is quite a lot of info here. Scroll down to the bottom of the page to header called 'Experience'

https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/13-01-01_faq_nr-engine_eng.htm

I can confirm that the last time I disconnected the Battery it took a very long time to relearn the correct idle point. Surprisingly so. In fact I seem to remember actually disconnecting the Battery again to start again with the relearn.

When started initially I had to feather the accelerator to prevent stalling and the first 3 or 4 miles were not easy to both brake and prevent stalling. It probably took around 20 to 30 miles to fully recover. That was all before the outcome of the last link here.

My 1.33L has the known issue of oil burning.

Have a careful read of these:

https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/213508-lumpy-running-133l-when-maintaining-a-constant-lower-speed/#comment-1708260

Last post here:

https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/175384-low-rpm-at-idle-state/?do=findComment&comment=1742896

https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/215513-poor-performance-on-the-133l-oil-burner-is-it-game-over/

And finally:

https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/218222-a-bit-of-a-spend-it-was-decision-time-does-it-stay-or-go/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[solero]

Lots Of things o check/ask;

Whats your fuel mpg?

Does it consume oil?

Any check engine fault codes?

I would check compression on each cylinder using a spark plug compression tester. Some garages can do this by monitoring Battery voltage on cranking using a fast scope, but former is better.

Could be a faulty injector. Check resistances and clean

Test resistances of each coil pack, between each combination of terminals and compare with others. Use an inline spark plug tester.

Check air filter. Cheap enough to replace.

Check /clean maf sensor and check for vacuum leaks with smoke tester.

Fuel pump could also be sluggish not generating enough pressure.

Check crank sensor signal or replace.

Most ecus will not generate an fault codes during startup, only whist engine is running.

[MrOtto]

The car started right up this morning, -2 C outside, in less than a second. RPM went right up to 800rpm, and then increased to 1200rpm as cold start function kicked in.

The car uses very little oil, negligible.

Compression is not measured, but since it pulls perfect without hesitation when it runs, and when it starts normal, it starts in less than 1 second. Compression can't be the problem.

Spark plugs were fine, just wet from fuel after cranking without starting. New plugs did not solve the starting hesitation problem, right after plugs were swapped.

So plugs/coils can't be the problem, (engine pulls fine without hesitation when it starts normal). I'm thinking more a engine management problem that sometimes prevents ignition/timing, maybe immobilizer or a sensor?

Fuel system, pump, injectors can't be the problem since engine pulls strong, and when it starts, it starts right up. And all plugs looked the same, normal colour.

So what could this random hesitation to start be? I does not seem to be connected to either cold or hot start.

I have a bluetooth OBD II reader, I will try to connect it. Which app is best for Toyota code reading?

[Mooly]

I don't know specifically what will be the cause of your issue although this mentions a code being generated in response to a slow start. For all the oil burning with mine starting under any condition is absolutely instant, 0.5 second or less.

[MrOtto]

I saw the crowns of the pistons, they were not sooted all he way down, and plugs where normal brownish. Engine starts in less than 1 second, hot or cold, 99 of 100 times. I add maybe less than 0,5l oil in between oil services. Oil consumption is one of the marginal I have seen for this milage. Car has 117 000 km / 72 850 miles.

[solero]

Ok, then i would be tempted to check the crank sensor signal. Swap if cost is not too prohibitive.

Also, it could be old capacitors leaking in the ecu, causing the intermittent nature.

[MrOtto]

I see there are several manufacturer/partnumber combinations for crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor listed my vehichles registration number/VIN

Should read the partnumber on my sensor first, then cross reference?

I have a OBD II bluetooth reader, what is a good Android software to read Toyota fault codes?

[solero]

For generic stuff i use carsoft pro £6 on my android phone with a cheap bluetooth obd dongle £5.

However, recently got techstream and dongle  hooked up to my win11 laptop for not much more (£15).

Not sure about your part numbers. Try partsouq.com.

Leaky Capacitors suggestion came from this video (not your car), but interesting.

 

[MrOtto]

Interesting video. Yes, a 13 year old car could have leaking caps. If I swap the ECU, does it affect immobilizer, or is it clean swap from a manual car with the same engine?

I found:

camshaft sensor:

9091905060

SENSOR, CRANK POSITION, NO.1

11101W

1NRFE..NRE150

02

12.2009 - ...

Crank sensor:

9091905073

SENSOR, CRANK POSITION

11301K

1NRFE..NRE150

01

12.2009 - 05.2013

Both seem to be offered by many suppliers in different price ranges.

[solero]

No, you cannot simply swap ecu's as the immobiliser keys are paired with it.

In the past the immobiliser EEPROM chip could be located and solder swapped between boards. However, nowadays its all integrated in one big SMD chip.

Some breakers sell keys, barrels,ecus all in one package.

Really needs specialist knowledge to reprogram. im sure dealers would write the car off. Hence cheapest option is for an electronics repair person to inspect board and replace any faulty capacitors.

Next time it happens, see if the obd port responds, as faulty capacitors will not allow it to regulate 5v, 12v lines,and prevent it communicating,  which can be a tell tale sign.

Crankshaft sensor is used for firing on cranking. Might be okay, in which case replace with a cheapy and if problem persists, swap it back with the original?

Food for thought. Problem might become more apparent with time? If its 1 in 100 starts, i would wait.

[solero]

Sorry, typo on obd software. NOT carsoft pro, but "car scanner pro" on android.