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CPN
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Another example of just how cheapskate Toyota are was when I was putting the caps on all the doors and I realised that on the driver's door panel, all of the window switches are double action; so "auto" both up and down. Now, you'd think that on the top of the range car such as the Premiere Edition, Toyota would push the boat out and make sure that all the other door window switches were also double action yes?

Not so for cheapskate Toyota! Good heavens! How much would it have added to the price of the car??!!

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Nah we're spoilt even having all the windows with two-stage switches at all - On all the previous ones only the drivers window had that! Even some more expensive cars don't have all auto-switches even for just the driver!

I like annoying my Audi-owning mate with all the weird Toyotaisms like that that his much more expensive car doesn't have :tongue:   (He still can't believe I have a HUD :laugh: )

Personally I'm happy my passengers don't have that facility as they're idiots - If it was up to me the passengers wouldn't have window switches at all, because they never shut them when they get out!! :eek: 

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3 hours ago, CPN said:

Another example of just how cheapskate Toyota are was when I was putting the caps on all the doors and I realised that on the driver's door panel, all of the window switches are double action; so "auto" both up and down. Now, you'd think that on the top of the range car such as the Premiere Edition, Toyota would push the boat out and make sure that all the other door window switches were also double action yes?

Not so for cheapskate Toyota! Good heavens! How much would it have added to the price of the car??!!

Think that might be a safety thing for little fingers Col.  there’ll be an EEC Directive for sure.  

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11 hours ago, anchorman said:

Think that might be a safety thing for little fingers Col.  there’ll be an EEC Directive for sure.  

Right! I never thought of that at all! (I'm way past child bearing age 🤣)

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22 hours ago, CPN said:

Another example of just how cheapskate Toyota are was when I was putting the caps on all the doors and I realised that on the driver's door panel, all of the window switches are double action; so "auto" both up and down. Now, you'd think that on the top of the range car such as the Premiere Edition, Toyota would push the boat out and make sure that all the other door window switches were also double action yes?

Not so for cheapskate Toyota! Good heavens! How much would it have added to the price of the car??!!

Really strange. :confused1:

Today i've checked with my one ( MY20 roughly equivalent to UK Excel ) and all power windows have auto up and down, whether you use the four switches on driver door or the ones on the doors.  So all switches are double action.

I don't think that the double action is in the switch. I think is managed by the power windows module that feels a short or long press on button. 

Maybe there's some software setting on your one ( it could be nice to have the feedback also of other users that ahave just got a MY24 )  that disables the double action on non driver doors.

You should check with Carista or a similar SW if there's some strange setting.

 

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... you know, I've never used any of the other window switches in my car so I didn't know! :eek: 

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On 4/9/2024 at 10:31 PM, CPN said:

You need to be brave! The popper catch is tough and there is a U clip at the front edge that needs to come up and off simultaneously! A good hard tug upwards around the middle and front edge of the offside rear passenger seat and they will both disengage. It feels like you are going to damage the seat but you won't because it's bendy and pretty forgiving. I then use a good stiff small cardboard box to jam under the seat to keep it up and out of the way. There are then 2 clips to remove so that you can lift the cloth cover, that covers the access to the battery...

😉

No option but to lift the seat to access the Battery. My new Excel doesn’t have an access door in the front of the seat base panel. Cost saving exercise?

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14 hours ago, Cyker said:

... you know, I've never used any of the other window switches in my car so I didn't know! :eek: 

It's good to occasionally open / close the rear windows.  It exercises the motor and stops them getting stuck in place. 

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On 4/19/2024 at 9:29 PM, CPN said:

Another example of just how cheapskate Toyota are was when I was putting the caps on all the doors and I realised that on the driver's door panel, all of the window switches are double action; so "auto" both up and down. Now, you'd think that on the top of the range car such as the Premiere Edition, Toyota would push the boat out and make sure that all the other door window switches were also double action yes?

Not so for cheapskate Toyota! Good heavens! How much would it have added to the price of the car??!!

Ignore everything I said in the above post!! (that'll teach me to check more thoroughly!)

It turns out that on the one door (other than the driver's door) that I checked, there was some chaff/swarf(?) around the piano black cap that I had put on that was interfering and preventing the second pressure action of the switch!

Careful removal and clearing of this excess plastic and then replacing the cap has fixed it!

Bottom line (having now checked them all!) is that ALL of the door switches ARE double action up/down. First action is intermittent positioning of the window, second action (up or down) is auto up/down of the window.

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4 hours ago, dash said:

No option but to lift the seat to access the battery. My new Excel doesn’t have an access door in the front of the seat base panel. Cost saving exercise?

Are you absolutely certain of that (in red) above? Check it against this photo...

PXL_20240421_141119944.thumb.jpg.ce696453fe3a335a3d19e2211e392de3.jpg

Can you see the two popper catches? (You need a sharp pointed penknife to lift the centre and release the popper...)

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OMG!!! I have just found the lumber support switch on the side of the driver's seat lower housing!!!

PXL_20240421_142310976.thumb.jpg.63054e41ac3e98c876109fc49cb5e8ad.jpg

It is awesome!! :yahoo:

(now my wife is jealous because her seat doesn't have one! 😢)

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32 minutes ago, CPN said:

OMG!!! I have just found the lumber support switch on the side of the driver's seat lower housing!!!

PXL_20240421_142310976.thumb.jpg.63054e41ac3e98c876109fc49cb5e8ad.jpg

It is awesome!! :yahoo:

(now my wife is jealous because her seat doesn't have one! 😢)

LOL...OH found that day 1 and was suitably impressed also!

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On 4/10/2024 at 2:45 PM, CPN said:

Actually, in this "tell the difference" comparison montage, it's hard to see any difference at all...

IMG-20201001-WA0030.thumb.jpg.26ea8e9a4e6180a20c199ac4b57e686f.jpg PXL_20240410_132645032-EDIT.thumb.jpg.7d6c6f7e77b90969115b28a57c06c5d6.jpg

Puzzle for today... 🤔

@CPN so finally drover the car this weekend! Technically 4 times though once out of the garage and once in on Saturday when I cleaned outside and same again yesterday doing inside 🤪

couple of new things I noticed:

PPF under the door handles on the driver and passenger door - nice touch to prevent scratches and don't recall on previous MK4, just the leading edges on the wheel arch. But PPF can be  a PITA for catching dirt and wax on the edges.

No sill plates. Seems a bit cheap not to include and will have to see if available to buy several an accessory. But they out PPF under the door handles...

Wheels much easier to clean (lucky me, thank you OH)

Display and HUD very nice and very clear. Not sure if big difference between previous car's HUD.

Seen people mention infotainment screen is angled to the passenger - it isn't, its straight on but it's perfectly readable from the driver's seat.

Bigger screen makes the camera look even more crap as it's low resolution to start, but not major issue.

Two things I didn't like:

Cleaning the front, I noted the little baffle just behind the grill on the air intake is not a tight fit. Easy enough to unclip so checked not broken or misaligned but noticed in your pic of the red Baron it's not a tight fit there either. Won't cause a problem it just seemed a bit naff. Didn't notice in the MY20 MK4 previous car in fact don't recall it at all.

HUD - seems to have a gap between the dash and the screen itself. Hard to see and doesnt seem to an issue and not loose or anything. It's not huge but it's there all the way around and you can get a finger in there. If something did drop on it it would sink to the depths of the dash. Again, don't recall it being like that on previous car.

Grateful if  @Dick_Dastardly @CPN could check the air intake baffle and HUD on yours to see if same.

 

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4 minutes ago, trashman1965 said:

@CPN so finally drover the car this weekend! Technically 4 times though once out of the garage and once in on Saturday when I cleaned outside and same again yesterday doing inside 🤪

couple of new things I noticed:

PPF under the door handles on the driver and passenger door - nice touch to prevent scratches and don't recall on previous MK4, just the leading edges on the wheel arch. But PPF can be  a PITA for catching dirt and wax on the edges.

No sill plates. Seems a bit cheap not to include and will have to see if available to buy several an accessory. But they out PPF under the door handles...

Wheels much easier to clean (lucky me, thank you OH)

Display and HUD very nice and very clear. Not sure if big difference between previous car's HUD.

Seen people mention infotainment screen is angled to the passenger - it isn't, its straight on but it's perfectly readable from the driver's seat.

Bigger screen makes the camera look even more crap as it's low resolution to start, but not major issue.

Two things I didn't like:

Cleaning the front, I noted the little baffle just behind the grill on the air intake is not a tight fit. Easy enough to unclip so checked not broken or misaligned but noticed in your pic of the red Baron it's not a tight fit there either. Won't cause a problem it just seemed a bit naff. Didn't notice in the MY20 MK4 previous car in fact don't recall it at all.

HUD - seems to have a gap between the dash and the screen itself. Hard to see and doesnt seem to an issue and not loose or anything. It's not huge but it's there all the way around and you can get a finger in there. If something did drop on it it would sink to the depths of the dash. Again, don't recall it being like that on previous car.

Grateful if  @Dick_Dastardly @CPN could check the air intake baffle and HUD on yours to see if same.

 

For context on air intake baffle 

 

 

Screenshot_20240429_115126_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20240429_115157_Chrome.jpg

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On 4/21/2024 at 10:25 AM, Trewithy said:

It's good to occasionally open / close the rear windows.  It exercises the motor and stops them getting stuck in place. 

I do - I meant I've only ever operated the driver switches, for obvious reasons (i.e. I'm the driver :laugh: ) I've not had the opportunity to play with the passenger window switches so didn't even know they were *also* double-action!

 

On 4/21/2024 at 3:20 PM, CPN said:

OMG!!! I have just found the lumber support switch on the side of the driver's seat lower housing!!!

PXL_20240421_142310976.thumb.jpg.63054e41ac3e98c876109fc49cb5e8ad.jpg

It is awesome!! :yahoo:

(now my wife is jealous because her seat doesn't have one! 😢)

Bwaaa! :crybaby:  (Also very jealous)

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On 4/29/2024 at 8:15 PM, Cyker said:

I do - I meant I've only ever operated the driver switches, for obvious reasons (i.e. I'm the driver :laugh: ) I've not had the opportunity to play with the passenger window switches so didn't even know they were *also* double-action!

 

Bwaaa! :crybaby:  (Also very jealous)

I never use lumbar support, I’m probably an odd shape but if I paid for that button I want it!!!

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I kept operating the rear window switches when reaching for the door lock switches or operating the mirror adjust knob, so disabled the auto-down function from the driver door for the rear windows.

@Cyker You could just lock-out the other windows! Unlike the Mk.3, it doesn't lock-out the driver control of those windows, so you can still operate them!

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On 4/29/2024 at 11:49 AM, trashman1965 said:

@CPN so finally drover the car this weekend! Technically 4 times though once out of the garage and once in on Saturday when I cleaned outside and same again yesterday doing inside 🤪

couple of new things I noticed:

PPF under the door handles on the driver and passenger door - nice touch to prevent scratches and don't recall on previous MK4, just the leading edges on the wheel arch. But PPF can be  a PITA for catching dirt and wax on the edges.

No sill plates. Seems a bit cheap not to include and will have to see if available to buy several an accessory. But they out PPF under the door handles...

Wheels much easier to clean (lucky me, thank you OH)

Display and HUD very nice and very clear. Not sure if big difference between previous car's HUD.

Seen people mention infotainment screen is angled to the passenger - it isn't, its straight on but it's perfectly readable from the driver's seat.

Bigger screen makes the camera look even more crap as it's low resolution to start, but not major issue.

Two things I didn't like:

Cleaning the front, I noted the little baffle just behind the grill on the air intake is not a tight fit. Easy enough to unclip so checked not broken or misaligned but noticed in your pic of the red Baron it's not a tight fit there either. Won't cause a problem it just seemed a bit naff. Didn't notice in the MY20 MK4 previous car in fact don't recall it at all.

HUD - seems to have a gap between the dash and the screen itself. Hard to see and doesnt seem to an issue and not loose or anything. It's not huge but it's there all the way around and you can get a finger in there. If something did drop on it it would sink to the depths of the dash. Again, don't recall it being like that on previous car.

Grateful if  @Dick_Dastardly @CPN could check the air intake baffle and HUD on yours to see if same.

 

Mines the same as yours i.e. gap around the HUD and air intake being a bit loose.

There's no gap as such around the air intake but it takes very little effort to prise the pieces apart and create one

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Just now, Dick_Dastardly said:

Mines the same as yours i.e. gap around the HUD and air intake being a bit loose.

There's no gap as such around the air intake but it takes very little effort to prose the pieces apart and create one

Excellent, thanks for checking and responding. Both are things typical of what I notice but other half will be blissfully unaware unless I say something. Usually met with a glassy eyed stare 😂😂😂

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6 hours ago, YarisHybrid2016 said:

I kept operating the rear window switches when reaching for the door lock switches or operating the mirror adjust knob, so disabled the auto-down function from the driver door for the rear windows.

@Cyker You could just lock-out the other windows! Unlike the Mk.3, it doesn't lock-out the driver control of those windows, so you can still operate them!

Oooh thanks for the tip, I'll have to try that next time the Cyker Taxi is operating :driving: :laugh: 

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Ok, it's been a while since I added to my own thread and we've done a fair few long journeys now so here are my further thoughts about the HEV 130.

Differences that I have noticed

So many but here are a few. I don't know what they've done to the software that works out the mpg but it is proving to be much more accurate than my previous car, The Red Baron. When I pulled in to the filling station earlier, the average for my current tank had just clicked over to an indicated 57.4mpg and so I was expecting a real mpg of between 55-56mpg tank to tank. Imagine my surprise when I filled in Fuelly when we arrived home and the real mpg came up as 57.7!! Obviously, this is only the third fill up so it's a work in progress, so to speak, but it's certainly looking much more accurate now.

Another thing that I have noticed (which may be connected to the above) is that the speedo reading is much closer to the true mph than before. I have set up my DRCC for 1mph increments and an overspeed of 2mph difference to true speed (both in the appropriate settings section). At an indicated 32, the car is actually doing a true 30 and 40 & 50 are roughly the same but sometimes fluctuating back to 39 or 49. If I want to cruise at a steady 60, I now set it for 63mph and it doodles along at a true 60 exactly. Previously, I had to set the cruise at 65 to do a true 60. Also (and I know @Cyker will love this!) I have tried the DRCC acceleration settings, all of them (Low/Med/High), and I have to say that High probably works the best in terms of economy because it doesn't mess about getting you to your set speed and then backs off the throttle quickly to a cruising gait at your set speed. Accelerating more slowly will definitely use more fuel in the long run as Cyker has repeatedly asserted and I agree with him.

On a long run, this car is even more relaxing to drive; if that's possible! All of the safety aids just work and in a much more subtle way than they did in the Red Baron. A highlight of all those aids is probably the way that it takes bends in its stride now (it was useless on the Red Baron) gently slowing from your set cruise speed as the car traverses the bend (think slip roads) and then gradually regains the speed as the road straightens up. It is really nice and reliable; even with cars around you. The overtake prevention also works well which surprised me a couple of times. It uses both the BSM system in tandem with the proximity detectors on the rear corner of the driver's side and soon flashes up on the HUD and gently prevents you from pulling out but not overbearingly so.

I love the PKSB (Parking Support Brake) function and it has saved me from marking the car a few times now because I have misjudged the image that I am seeing in the rear camera. It's a bit of a surprise when you first experience it as it appears to make a "grinding" kind of noise when it actuates but it certainly stops the car suddenly!!

Annoyances

Again, there are quite a few but here are some. The RSA system, although mildly better is still pretty rubbish and still gets distracted by 20mph limit signs at the entry to estate roads but sometimes it now corrects itself fairly quickly as long as it also has the current map data but this feature still needs much more work to be truly effective and safe.

If you are using AA or AC for your Nav, one of the annoying things is that the voice instructions can be cut off in mid flow should a beep or bong happen during the speech stream. This is quite ridiculous and could be easily sorted out in software. I've tried using the built in Nav system (where the latter doesn't happen) and, compared to AA or AC, it is awful in my own subjective opinion; which is a pity as at least directions are able to come up in the HUD as you are approaching a feature or junction etc. I still keep on going back to AA (in my case) as it is much more fluid and the voice instructions are much more natural. The built in Nav voice sounds totally robotic and disconnected in nature and the map display is so low tech for this day and age. I hate it.

Following on from the PKSB above, the image from the camera (as has been mentioned elsewhere) is very low resolution and could be radically improved with a better quality camera. However, at least the additional icons that come up for all around the car and showing visually which bit is getting closest to the car is very good so, mixed feelings about the rearward views.

Lastly, for this post, and probably the most frustrating is that they give you all these options to set up your dashboard images and when you've got them just how you like them, when you switch the car off and back on again, it changes some of the inset displays back to what it thinks you should be seeing and there doesn't seem to be any way of making your chosen layout the default!! Very annoying!!

That's all for now.

 

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9 hours ago, CPN said:

Ok, it's been a while since I added to my own thread and we've done a fair few long journeys now so here are my further thoughts about the HEV 130.

Differences that I have noticed

So many but here are a few. I don't know what they've done to the software that works out the mpg but it is proving to be much more accurate than my previous car, The Red Baron. When I pulled in to the filling station earlier, the average for my current tank had just clicked over to an indicated 57.4mpg and so I was expecting a real mpg of between 55-56mpg tank to tank. Imagine my surprise when I filled in Fuelly when we arrived home and the real mpg came up as 57.7!! Obviously, this is only the third fill up so it's a work in progress, so to speak, but it's certainly looking much more accurate now.

Another thing that I have noticed (which may be connected to the above) is that the speedo reading is much closer to the true mph than before. I have set up my DRCC for 1mph increments and an overspeed of 2mph difference to true speed (both in the appropriate settings section). At an indicated 32, the car is actually doing a true 30 and 40 & 50 are roughly the same but sometimes fluctuating back to 39 or 49. If I want to cruise at a steady 60, I now set it for 63mph and it doodles along at a true 60 exactly. Previously, I had to set the cruise at 65 to do a true 60. Also (and I know @Cyker will love this!) I have tried the DRCC acceleration settings, all of them (Low/Med/High), and I have to say that High probably works the best in terms of economy because it doesn't mess about getting you to your set speed and then backs off the throttle quickly to a cruising gait at your set speed. Accelerating more slowly will definitely use more fuel in the long run as Cyker has repeatedly asserted and I agree with him.

On a long run, this car is even more relaxing to drive; if that's possible! All of the safety aids just work and in a much more subtle way than they did in the Red Baron. A highlight of all those aids is probably the way that it takes bends in its stride now (it was useless on the Red Baron) gently slowing from your set cruise speed as the car traverses the bend (think slip roads) and then gradually regains the speed as the road straightens up. It is really nice and reliable; even with cars around you. The overtake prevention also works well which surprised me a couple of times. It uses both the BSM system in tandem with the proximity detectors on the rear corner of the driver's side and soon flashes up on the HUD and gently prevents you from pulling out but not overbearingly so.

I love the PKSB (Parking Support Brake) function and it has saved me from marking the car a few times now because I have misjudged the image that I am seeing in the rear camera. It's a bit of a surprise when you first experience it as it appears to make a "grinding" kind of noise when it actuates but it certainly stops the car suddenly!!

Annoyances

Again, there are quite a few but here are some. The RSA system, although mildly better is still pretty rubbish and still gets distracted by 20mph limit signs at the entry to estate roads but sometimes it now corrects itself fairly quickly as long as it also has the current map data but this feature still needs much more work to be truly effective and safe.

If you are using AA or AC for your Nav, one of the annoying things is that the voice instructions can be cut off in mid flow should a beep or bong happen during the speech stream. This is quite ridiculous and could be easily sorted out in software. I've tried using the built in Nav system (where the latter doesn't happen) and, compared to AA or AC, it is awful in my own subjective opinion; which is a pity as at least directions are able to come up in the HUD as you are approaching a feature or junction etc. I still keep on going back to AA (in my case) as it is much more fluid and the voice instructions are much more natural. The built in Nav voice sounds totally robotic and disconnected in nature and the map display is so low tech for this day and age. I hate it.

Following on from the PKSB above, the image from the camera (as has been mentioned elsewhere) is very low resolution and could be radically improved with a better quality camera. However, at least the additional icons that come up for all around the car and showing visually which bit is getting closest to the car is very good so, mixed feelings about the rearward views.

Lastly, for this post, and probably the most frustrating is that they give you all these options to set up your dashboard images and when you've got them just how you like them, when you switch the car off and back on again, it changes some of the inset displays back to what it thinks you should be seeing and there doesn't seem to be any way of making your chosen layout the default!! Very annoying!!

That's all for now.

 

Good stuff Colin.  I’m particularly interested in your comments because I’m contemplating the upgraded UX which has the some instrument cluster.  It would get on my wick too if the display kept defaulting.  It’s all down to eejits who spend more time messing with their phone than looking what they’re doing.  Tell me, does your car keep beeping if the breech the speed limit, does it annoy you and is it easy to switch off?

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Thanks for your update Colin. Just wondering where you find the mpg readout for the current tankful (I've not seen that one yet).

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The speed limit beeping is super annoying.

Takes 9 button presses to turn it off every time you start the car, with a mix of short presses, long presses and scrolling through options. I've got the muscle memory for it now so it's getting easier 

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13 hours ago, CPN said:

Ok, it's been a while since I added to my own thread and we've done a fair few long journeys now so here are my further thoughts about the HEV 130.

Differences that I have noticed

So many but here are a few. I don't know what they've done to the software that works out the mpg but it is proving to be much more accurate than my previous car, The Red Baron. When I pulled in to the filling station earlier, the average for my current tank had just clicked over to an indicated 57.4mpg and so I was expecting a real mpg of between 55-56mpg tank to tank. Imagine my surprise when I filled in Fuelly when we arrived home and the real mpg came up as 57.7!! Obviously, this is only the third fill up so it's a work in progress, so to speak, but it's certainly looking much more accurate now.

Another thing that I have noticed (which may be connected to the above) is that the speedo reading is much closer to the true mph than before. I have set up my DRCC for 1mph increments and an overspeed of 2mph difference to true speed (both in the appropriate settings section). At an indicated 32, the car is actually doing a true 30 and 40 & 50 are roughly the same but sometimes fluctuating back to 39 or 49. If I want to cruise at a steady 60, I now set it for 63mph and it doodles along at a true 60 exactly. Previously, I had to set the cruise at 65 to do a true 60. Also (and I know @Cyker will love this!) I have tried the DRCC acceleration settings, all of them (Low/Med/High), and I have to say that High probably works the best in terms of economy because it doesn't mess about getting you to your set speed and then backs off the throttle quickly to a cruising gait at your set speed. Accelerating more slowly will definitely use more fuel in the long run as Cyker has repeatedly asserted and I agree with him.

On a long run, this car is even more relaxing to drive; if that's possible! All of the safety aids just work and in a much more subtle way than they did in the Red Baron. A highlight of all those aids is probably the way that it takes bends in its stride now (it was useless on the Red Baron) gently slowing from your set cruise speed as the car traverses the bend (think slip roads) and then gradually regains the speed as the road straightens up. It is really nice and reliable; even with cars around you. The overtake prevention also works well which surprised me a couple of times. It uses both the BSM system in tandem with the proximity detectors on the rear corner of the driver's side and soon flashes up on the HUD and gently prevents you from pulling out but not overbearingly so.

I love the PKSB (Parking Support Brake) function and it has saved me from marking the car a few times now because I have misjudged the image that I am seeing in the rear camera. It's a bit of a surprise when you first experience it as it appears to make a "grinding" kind of noise when it actuates but it certainly stops the car suddenly!!

Annoyances

Again, there are quite a few but here are some. The RSA system, although mildly better is still pretty rubbish and still gets distracted by 20mph limit signs at the entry to estate roads but sometimes it now corrects itself fairly quickly as long as it also has the current map data but this feature still needs much more work to be truly effective and safe.

If you are using AA or AC for your Nav, one of the annoying things is that the voice instructions can be cut off in mid flow should a beep or bong happen during the speech stream. This is quite ridiculous and could be easily sorted out in software. I've tried using the built in Nav system (where the latter doesn't happen) and, compared to AA or AC, it is awful in my own subjective opinion; which is a pity as at least directions are able to come up in the HUD as you are approaching a feature or junction etc. I still keep on going back to AA (in my case) as it is much more fluid and the voice instructions are much more natural. The built in Nav voice sounds totally robotic and disconnected in nature and the map display is so low tech for this day and age. I hate it.

Following on from the PKSB above, the image from the camera (as has been mentioned elsewhere) is very low resolution and could be radically improved with a better quality camera. However, at least the additional icons that come up for all around the car and showing visually which bit is getting closest to the car is very good so, mixed feelings about the rearward views.

Lastly, for this post, and probably the most frustrating is that they give you all these options to set up your dashboard images and when you've got them just how you like them, when you switch the car off and back on again, it changes some of the inset displays back to what it thinks you should be seeing and there doesn't seem to be any way of making your chosen layout the default!! Very annoying!!

That's all for now.

 

Thanks so much for this, keep 'em coming! :thumbsup:

It's these kind of subtle detail and differences that reviewers won't even notice and only someone that's had both would notice all these small things that matter to me!

Like the lumbar support I don't think is even mentioned anywhere, nor is the acceleration settings for the DRCC!

And yes, that horrible grinding sound is very disconcerting - I'm still not sure what about the auto-brake system causes that as almost sounds like someone is spinning a ratchet!

It's a shame the displays don't 'save' fully - That would annoy the heck out of me. I wonder if there's a reason for it or if it's just a bug...? :g: 

 

One question - I forget if you mentioned this but is the reversing camera still static or do the lines move with your steering now? I had a play in my brother's BMW which does have the dynamic lines, and it makes using the rear camera for manoeuvring much easier! As it is I don't use mine at all any more except for judging the distance at final reverse - I've taken to "pigeoning" around the A, B and C pillars and mirrors again and using the good ol' Mk1 Eyeball, as I'm much more accurate with my reverse parking than when using the camera - Even using it a bit while steering just throws off my positioning because of the fisheye making the view so misleading!

 

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