Dead DA and dead battery

[roks]

Hi All,

Few days ago the display screen died, no satnav, BT or anything, traced it down to a blown fuse, replaced it didn't think much of it.

I went to the car after 2 days, thinking I'd remove the satnav unit as it looks to be faulty but I could not get into the car, it was dead. I got in with the manual key, measured the Battery voltage, I was shocked, 0.7v. It appears that cheapo 20A fuse did not blow and shorted/drained the Battery.

I have disconnected the satnav unit, replaced the fuse with 10A, jump started, left it running for 20min then drove around the block few minutes left it parking.

The rear camera, radio, steering wheel control works (applicable ones), no BT, just says waiting for bluetooth but nothing appears.

Does the DA have BT or is it in the SatNav module? This is a Touch&Go2.

[roks]

Bought a unit from 2017 Yaris, the satnav unit has the same model number as the one I have at the mo so that should just be a straight swap in theory, will see.

[roks]

For anyone else the need to replace the satnav module, I've replaced it from a 2017 Yaris hybrid, it was the same model, bluetooth is working. 

The DA unit from the yaris also had BT capability but mine didn't hence the need to get the satnav module.

[roks]

More concerning is the Battery, its not holding charge, I thought it was the Dashcam hardwired kit that's gone faulty but its not that as its disconnected.

Also can some please confirm, is the power windows supposed to worked once engine off and power off?  I am pretty sure it never worked for before but now it does or am I mistaken?

 

[solero]

Can confirm power windows dont work with ignition off.

[Derek.w]

A lot of Toyota the power window will work if you switch off but you have tobe quick as I am only talking about a minute or less after that it wont work.

[roks]

1 minute ago, Derek.w said:

have to be quick as I am only talking about a minute or less after that it wont work.

ok thanks guys will try that.

I am pretty sure it did not work before, something has happen after I replaced that cheap fuse the didn't blow and drained the Battery.

[solero]

Try disconnecting Battery for 5 mins. Forcing a Body Control Module reset.

[Roy124]

On 4/30/2024 at 8:14 PM, roks said:

I went to the car after 2 days, thinking I'd remove the satnav unit as it looks to be faulty but I could not get into the car, it was dead. I got in with the manual key, measured the battery voltage, I was shocked, 0.7v. It appears that cheapo 20A fuse did not blow and shorted/drained the battery.

This might be the problem.   You were lucky to get it started after the Battery was that low.

 

19 hours ago, roks said:

More concerning is the battery, its not holding charge

Rather than chase for a fault get a proper charge into the Battery and then check over a couple of days.  

[roks]

2 hours ago, Roy124 said:

You were lucky to get it started after the battery was that low.

Used a small Battery to jump it.....I've been doing that a lot, unpredictable, yesterday afternoon parked after 30min driving, started this morning, came back after 10min parked, used the radio with engine off for 10min drive and parked....came back after 2hrs it would not start, just clicking.

2 hours ago, Roy124 said:

get a proper charge into the battery

Got it in doors on a charger now, will leave it on overnight see how it goes.

8 hours ago, solero said:

Try disconnecting battery for 5 mins. Forcing a Body Control Module reset.

This has fixed the windows power, I think the power wasn't being cut after turn off engine, contributing to Battery drain?

[Roy124]

Roks, how old it the Battery?  

12 minutes ago, roks said:

Used a small battery to jump it.....I've been doing that a lot, unpredictable, yesterday afternoon parked after 30min driving, started this morning, came back after 10min parked, used the radio with engine off for 10min drive and parked....came back after 2hrs it would not start, just clicking.

This screams battery at me.

[roks]

6 minutes ago, Roy124 said:

This screams battery at me.

Lets see after the overnight charge if it continues, will replace.

[TonyHSD]

If any old car Battery has died just buy a new one instead of trying to recharge the old. In some rare cases old batteries can be saved but in most it is not possible. Replace with new, check system is working correctly and no any unnecessary discharge when car is off and you will be good. 

[Roy124]

37 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

If any old car battery has died just buy a new one instead of trying to recharge the old. 

My suggestion was to look at the Battery rather than chase possible drain causes.  If it doesn't hold a charge, new Battery is needed.

As the car is 11 years old and Rok hasn't said anything about the Battery age or how long he has had the car, it suggests battery is the problem.

[roks]

38 minutes ago, Roy124 said:

battery age or how long he has had the car

The Battery is not the original, its a RAC varta replacement, it looked quite new when I got the car in aug 2020.

I've charged it overnight, installed it back in the car, after driving for 20 min, I've left it parked. 

The issue started when I installed a cheap 30A fuse, (original was blown by faulty satnav module), that didn't blow and drained the Battery. I then disconnected the satnav, but the Battery would dain, due the car actually not turning off the power as I discovered that the windows had power when the engine was off. @solero suggested that disconnecting the battery for few minutes would reset the  Body Control Module which it did and windows are back to normal, i.e dont work with engine/ignition off.

[solero]

If you have a multimeter handy, I would measure the residual current draw. This should help identify any obvious parasitic draws, before delving any further into the cause.

Put multimeter in 10 amp mode in series between a Battery terminal and take a reading once it stabilises (with ignition off). Once you have your reading then connect the Battery as normal.

Anything more than 100mA (0.1A) parasitic draw would be a cause for concern.

[solero]

Just measured mines for future reference, and it drops down to approx 0.17amps.

Mines is a key start system, so keyless entry sytems may be higher.

 

[roks]

I did check couple of days ago, its was reading approx. 0.25-0.29amps, mine is keyless start/entry.

Thanks for checking, much appreciated.

 

[roks]

So, confirmed that the Battery is weak, it appears be ok as long as I don't plug in the dash cam.

I left the camera plugged in parking mode, normally it cuts off when voltage 11.8v and also the car turns of non essential to preserve the Battery, doors/boot open but wont start. Works ok if leave the camera unplugged.

I am looking for a batter, and notice that the start/stop type batteries have far more capability 270k compared to a normal 50k starts.

Should I buy the start/stop lead acid if the price difference is not much?

Is there any downside to using start/stop Battery in a non start/stop card 

[roks]

I am about to buy a new Battery, any recommendations on brands?

Thanks

[Rhymes with Paris]

6 hours ago, roks said:

I am about to buy a new battery, any recommendations on brands?

Thanks

Yuasa or yuasa,or if you fancy something different a Yuasa.

 

[Gerg]

Halfords own-brand of batteries are made for them by Yuasa, fwiw.

I have had this confirmed, over time, by two different staff and a member of Yuasa technical support.

If you did choose a Halfords Battery, sometimes there are online-only discounts for 'collection in store', these tend to happen around bank holidays though.

[roks]

34 minutes ago, Gerg said:

these tend to happen around bank holidays

Thanks, I am sure I could have survived carrying the jumper Battery in the back seat until BH, but I've ordered one yesterday from Tayna, arrives today.

[Mojo1010]

1 hour ago, Gerg said:

Halfords own-brand of batteries are made for them by Yuasa, fwiw.

I have had this confirmed, over time, by two different staff and a member of Yuasa technical support.

If you did choose a Halfords battery, sometimes there are online-only discounts for 'collection in store', these tend to happen around bank holidays though.

That is good to know as I have a trade card, if required to purchase in future. 

[Gerg]

1 hour ago, Mojo1010 said:

That is good to know as I have a trade card, if required to purchase in future. 

Although the staff in-store say they should not, I've just occasionally found that the bank-holiday-type discounts work in addition to the trade card discount. But, as I'm sure you know, the Halfords website is often quite 'clunky', some patience is needed - the website sometimes hangs even when used normally.

On a similar note, the Halfords car-specific parts that get ordered in, are actually sourced from ECP. Apparently this arrangement has existed for the last five years. Perhaps you knew.

So, no longer a trawl (for the best prices) for parts at ECP, then CarParts4Less, now you should be looking at Halfords price as well. (Internal part numbers/pictures are all the same for those three, understandably). It's often worthwhile.