Attaching aux battery charger

[Johnny R]

If you look to the left of the Battery, there's a chassis bolt with spare thread, the LH live terminal on top of the Battery which is fuse protected, (the one you circled yellow). You need two M8 nuts

[DamoGR]

38 minutes ago, Johnny R said:

If you look to the left of the battery, there's a chassis bolt with spare thread, the LH live terminal on top of the battery which is fuse protected, (the one you circled yellow). You need two M8 nuts

Thank you for the reply

The chassis bolt to use, is it the one which the negative lead off the Battery goes to?

If so, why do you use that point instead of the Battery?

And I will use that yellow circled one for the positive then.

Again, thank you for the help, it is much appreciated 

 

[Johnny R]

I used it as on my car it meant absolutely no chance of accidentally disconnecting the Battery. I don't know what that would do!!

[yossarian247]

1 hour ago, DamoGR said:

Afternoon all

I’m wanting to connect my ctek leads to the battery in the boot of my 2.0 TS

Im not super confident working with electrics, so after some advice please.

I am pretty certain I connect the negative to the bolt I circled blue on the pic, and the positive to the red (not the yellow or green)

If so, is it best to add a new nut to each, or undo the ones on it and try and keep the lead attached to the bolt whilst doing so?

Any help much appreciated 🙏

 

I connected to the same points as you are suggesting. I removed the existing nuts and fitted the connections under those. Disconnecting the Battery connections for a second won't harm anything. 

[yossarian247]

By the way, there's no need to connect the negative to the chassis instead of direct to the Battery. That was a precaution advised when using old style jump leads. Connecting a charger like this direct to the Battery is absolutely fine. 

[DamoGR]

Oh my… now I’m confused what to do for the best 😩

Do I go blue and red like you say, or yellow and chassis bolt like Johnny R says? 
 

Must be how Bond feels when he’s gotta decide which wire to cut to save the world 😆
 

3 minutes ago, yossarian247 said:

I connected to the same points as you are suggesting. I removed the existing nuts and fitted the connections under those. Disconnecting the battery connections for a second won't harm anything. 

 

[yossarian247]

Connect to the chassis if you prefer, and it'll work fine. No particular need to though 😊

[DamoGR]

1 minute ago, yossarian247 said:

Connect to the chassis if you prefer, and it'll work fine. No particular need to though 😊

Ok thanks.

Did you use the red circles positive point then?

If so, why over the yellow as Johnny says?

Sorry for all the questions, but tbh, electrics scare the bejesus out of me 

[Johnny R]

I used the one yellow circled because on mine it has a fuse between it and the Battery. Just being safe.

[yossarian247]

19 minutes ago, DamoGR said:

Ok thanks.

Did you use the red circles positive point then?

If so, why over the yellow as Johnny says?

Sorry for all the questions, but tbh, electrics scare the bejesus out of me 

My personal reasoning was that I wanted to connect direct to the Battery without involving any of the cars own electrics or fuses in the circuit. That's just my own preference though. You can make an equal case for connecting onto the other terminal so that the wiring is protected by the car's fuse as Johnny suggests! Up to you 

[Derek.w]

The Noco genious 5 has a inline fuse about 15cm from the eyelet if you prefer you can remove the crockodile clips and use the intergrated eyelets.

[DamoGR]

4 minutes ago, Derek.w said:

The Noco genious 5 has an inline fuse about 15cm from the eyelet if you prefer you can remove the crockodile clips and use the intergrated eyelets.

Thanks Derek.

I have the Ctek charger, and it looks like it does have a fuse also on the positive lead 

(*edit* Yes, I know I am holding the negative lead on that particular picture before anyone says 😄)

 

Edited September 10 by DamoGR
Added comment

[DamoGR]

Maybe a stupid question, but does the hardwire connection continually light up all the time? 
If so, would that not drain the Battery? Or is it too minimal to be considered?
Mine was flashing red, which I think indicates less than 80% charge… but maybe that’s because I had been working on the car and not in ready mode 

[RabButler]

On 9/10/2024 at 6:23 PM, Johnny R said:

You need two M8 nuts

Try Harthill Services.

[DamoGR]

FAO anyone with the hardwire kit, can you confirm that a light is always on, on the attachment?

Also, I have tried to find whether the Varta 345 LN1-MF CCA286A is an AGM Battery online, but nothing, anyone know?

Those of you with the same Battery as me, do you charge your Battery, on normal or AGM?

Thanks 

[Red_Corolla]

11 hours ago, DamoGR said:

FAO anyone with the hardwire kit, can you confirm that a light is always on, on the attachment?

Also, I have tried to find whether the Varta 345 LN1-MF CCA286A is an AGM battery online, but nothing, anyone know?

Those of you with the same battery as me, do you charge your battery, on normal or AGM?

Thanks 

Battery is normal maintenance free, so use the standard setting rather than AGM, unless it's really cold. I've had my CTEK for years now, so it's an obsolete model, but I'm sure there's somewhere in the manual that says AGM can be used on normal batteries below a certain temperature.

My CTEK connection lead is the one without the fancy LED indicator, but I don't expect yours to pose any significant drain. It takes next-to-nothing to power one LED, so don't be concerned.

Mine is connected direct to Battery using the M6 studs (same size as the hole through the eyelets of the lead). I just removed the nuts and put the eyelets underneath before replacing them. I fused mine to be on the safe side, just because of the length: Mine is extended down into the spare wheel well and exits the body through the grommet for the towbar electrics, allowing me to connect the charger externally, with the car still locked up.

[Derek.w]

On 9/10/2024 at 9:59 PM, DamoGR said:

Thanks Derek.

I have the Ctek charger, and it looks like it does have a fuse also on the positive lead 

(*edit* Yes, I know I am holding the negative lead on that particular picture before anyone says 😄)

 

I beleve a led light is always on dranage I expect 15 to 20 ma constant current depending on size of led flashing leds use less current.

 

[Red_Corolla]

14 hours ago, Derek.w said:

I beleve a led light is always on dranage I expect 15 to 20 ma constant current depending on size of led flashing leds use less current.

 

About 30mW is the typical power consumption for full brightness, and they require about 2v as a minimum supply voltage: 30/2 = 15mA, just as you say.

But the car Battery is 12v, so 30/12 = 2.5mA. That's for a full size 5mm LED running very bright: The little indicator LED in the charging cable is going to consume much less still. It won't amount to anything significant. 👍

[DamoGR]

Thanks guys 🙌