OBD not working

[LondonIQ]

Hi All, just got my first IQ. A 1.0 auto RHD

Tried to plug in a bluetooth dongle into obd port but getting nothing. Also tried an older style obd reader. 
Has anyone had similar?

Next step is checking if I have any power. I did check the 7.5A fuse (passenger side fuse box) and that’s ok

[LondonIQ]

Also I saw a post with details on how to remove the port and panel but can’t find it now. Clearly haven’t mastered the search yet

[flash22]

check the powers and grounds with a meter (pins 4 and 16)

Also, check to see if it has had a black box or obd2 disconnected

 

[LondonIQ]

Thanks will try that when the sun appears. Not sure about previous black boxes, would that typical mess up the OBD port?

[flash22]

Yes, it is a common place they tap the live and canbus

[LondonIQ]

Thanks I think that might be a great shout. The port felt a little loose so perhaps it’s been removed/fiddled with before. Will update

[LondonIQ]

Got the bottom cover off  and OBD connector out  if anyone needs to know how:

Pull off the plastic trim below the panel

2 10mm bolts to remove

The OBD connector pops out if you carefully push one side in with a pointed pry tool or screwdriver

the panel is just held on with push clips  use a pry tool around the edge to get it off

I seem to have 1.5V between pin 16 and chassis or pin 4  

 

[flash22]

Replace the DLC fuse (7,5a) check for 12v on pin 16 but use a body ground (bolt on the bulkhead will do)

Also check resistance and continuity between pin 4 and a body ground

[LondonIQ]

I get a max of 7.3 volts on pin 16. It doesn’t look in great condition. I’ve also measure it from behind as well as tapping into the green wire that feeds pin 16. 
 

I have continuity between pin 4 and chassis . Can’t remember the exact resistance but it was similar to just the test leads  

I’ve noticed the engine shakes when at warm idle. I recall my Aygo 1.0 being very smooth. Without the OBD working it’s a bit difficult to troubleshoot. I’ve cleaned the PCV Valve, throttle body and the MAP( I think it’s a MAP) Sensor

 

 

[flash22]

Is that tested at the front or rear of the connector

 

yes that needs good clean and scrub

 

anything else not working? whats the Battery voltage off and running?

[LondonIQ]

I could get a voltage from the from front by pushing in a short length of cable and then use crocodile clips to measure. Gave it a good clean with Battery disconnected. 
 

Everything  else seems to be working fine. The. Battery measures at 12.52V and 14V with engine on 

 

I’ll try and measure what’s at the fuse with it pulled 

[LondonIQ]

18 hours ago, flash22 said:

Replace the DLC fuse (7,5a) check for 12v on pin 16 but use a body ground (bolt on the bulkhead will do)

Also check resistance and continuity between pin 4 and a body ground

Which fuse is the DLC? I’ve been checking fuse 9 in the passenger compartment (7.5A). Is there another fuse? Thanks 

[flash22]

It may be marked OBD 7.5a  the fuse list is on the lid

borrowed from another thread

[LondonIQ]

Checked and I have 12V at the fuse so there’s a voltage drop somewhere between the fuse and the OBD

[flash22]

The only connection is at connector 3D what is part of the fuse box (instrument panel junction box) it goes direct to the OBD2 socket

[LondonIQ]

Thanks you’ve been a great help. Do you or anyone have a wiring diagram that shows how they are routed? So far I’ve only removed the lower panel on the drivers side. Just working out if I need to remove more to find the connection points

[flash22]

routing - it comes off the fuse box into the dash loom directly to the OBD2 port, popping off the passenger side cover may help