IQ wheel bearing woes

[IQ_Samuel]

Hi guys, 

New here. 

Bought a 2010 IQ as a little project. It was terribly cheap, but the clutch was on its last legs amongst other things. 

There was a drone from one of the bearings. Replaced the NSR bearing, and it didn't go. So, when I did the clutch I found a couple of hidden "extra's". Some clot had battered the lay shaft bearing, so I had to buy a new driveshaft w/bearing, but whilst it was all in bits I did the front wheel bearings as well. Good thing I did really, as these were knackered to boot. Both inner races dinted! How on earth... 

Anyway, bought 2 pattern bearings made by NAPA. £22 each instead of *GULP* Toyota's parts at £130 each. Mental. 

Anyway, changed both bearings, got car finished and back together, and took for test ride. And this is where it started to fall apart. 

Noticed fairly quickly that the speedometer was reading under. Not good. Was it a sensor? These had come out easily, so I was convinced I hadn't damaged one. So, last culprit - bearing. Speedometer figure is taken from the magnetic ABS ring in the bearing, AFAIK. 

I have done a bit of digging, and found that AutoDoc list either a 64-tooth or a 96-tooth ABS sensor ring in their supplied parts. Spoke to Toyota about this, and they're as good as useless. 

Does anyone else have any ideas on this? Anyone suffered with similar issues? The bearings aren't a small job, so I am thinking is it worth the risk for another £22 bearing of unknown manufacture, or do I plump for the genuine articles? 

Many thanks in advance!

[flash22]

bearing wise pay the extra and go with SKF or Blueprint

take autodoc (German car part mafia) with a pinch of salt the IQ does not use toothed reluctor rings if it did it would only be on the drive shafts/cv's

The iQ uses a magnetic ring built into the bearings do not mess with separate sensors or bearings on the rear as alignment is critical, replace the complete hub

speed is calculated from the ABS system (usually passenger front)

SKF front bearings - VKBA 3684

 

 

If you use Autodoc make sure you dont get bate and switched for their own brand junk at checkout

 

bit confused with your post and had to read it a few times over - A lay shaft is in the gearbox, the splined driveshaft end that goes through the front hub(s) is called a CV joint

 

Ps. a lot of Napa items are Chinese Junk and a lot of it is cross-referenced incorrectly

EDIT. Is your car a 1.0 or 1.33 as there are 2 bearing types listed, drop me a PM with your Vin

 

[flash22]

The difference in bearings is the size

outer 69mm vs 75mm

Inner 38mm vs 40mm

[IQ_Samuel]

17 hours ago, flash22 said:

bearing wise pay the extra and go with SKF or Blueprint

take autodoc (German car part mafia) with a pinch of salt the IQ does not use toothed reluctor rings if it did it would only be on the drive shafts/cv's

The iQ uses a magnetic ring built into the bearings do not mess with separate sensors or bearings on the rear as alignment is critical, replace the complete hub

speed is calculated from the ABS system (usually passenger front)

SKF front bearings - VKBA 3684

 

 

If you use Autodoc make sure you dont get bate and switched for their own brand junk at checkout

 

bit confused with your post and had to read it a few times over - A lay shaft is in the gearbox, the splined driveshaft end that goes through the front hub(s) is called a CV joint

 

Ps. a lot of Napa items are Chinese Junk and a lot of it is cross-referenced incorrectly

EDIT. Is your car a 1.0 or 1.33 as there are 2 bearing types listed, drop me a PM with your Vin

 

Hi Flash22, 

Thank you kindly for your feedback. 

Sorry RE lay shaft, you are absolutely right. I am referring to the OS driveshaft which has a bendy bit and a not-bendy bit. I meant the driveshaft, it has a bearing not-quite-midway along its length that goes through a bearing housing. This was totally knackered by someone with a hammer at some point who realised they couldn't get it out, so they left it in there... 

I have installed the bearings in the correct orientation (i.e., with the magnetic ring facing inwards of the hub so that the hall effect sensor can read the magnetic poles of this ring) and have a speed reading on the speedometer, but it is under expectations. 

It is interesting to hear your opinions on AutoDoc, they have a strange listing method. If I search for front wheel bearings, I end up with about 50 candidates. If I use their filtering system, only 2 of these 50 have identifiers on how many magnetic poles each bearing's magnetic ring contains. The other 48 appear to be an unknown. 

I shall plump for the SKF bearings and come back to you. It is interesting to hear that you mention the speed is read from the NSF bearing, as I unplugged each ABS sensor in the engine bay when I realised I had an issue and each side put a reading on the speedo, but I assume that the ECU must decide which to believe (i.e., dedicate a master reading) to display. Although the figures need to be similar, as otherwise the TCS will assume one side is spinning and cut the engine accordingly. 

Looks like I get to take the front hubs off again now... yay. 

[IQ_Samuel]

Ah, yes - these are the 69mm outer bearings (1KR-FE engine). Toyota genuine part number is 90369-38023. 

[jcps001]

Use Toyota part numbers when searching for parts. Buy those parts that match the part numbers.

[IQ_Samuel]

6 minutes ago, jcps001 said:

Use Toyota part numbers when searching for parts. Buy those parts that match the part numbers.

I did. 

[jcps001]

Oh, sorry then. Forget it.

Have you tried using the part brand's online catalogue and search for the part with the exact Toyota part number, and then search for that part on that german store? That may also help when buying.

[IQ_Samuel]

Yep, I have - I have done this to stick what is hopefully the correct SKF bearing into my basket on that German store. I am awaiting a PM from Flash to confirm I am not going insane! 

Based on the time it takes to remove the hubs and press/grind out/in each bearing, I am genuinely considering Toyota parts... £128 each, but a weekend of my life? You can't buy time... 

[Pete.Z]

SKF bearings are ok to use, napa however is cheap junk, never buy those.

[IQ_Samuel]

So, here we are. 

4 hours of b*ggering about under the car, £80 in additional SKF bearing's, and the fault remains identical. 

Speedometer still reading under by 1/3rd. No ABS or TCS faults, its like they have removed 1/3rd of the magnetic ABS ring poles. 

Anyway, sick of this now. If anyone reckons there is a chance it might be an ABS sensor, then I am happy to give this a go as its a damn sight easier than bearings out/in again. 

Beyond this, I am at a loss. 

[flash22]

so 30mph is showing as 20mph what does live scan data show your speed as ?

did this happen before or after the clutch change ??

[IQ_Samuel]

Hi chap, 

Not sure what live scan data is? I don't have any fancy gadgets, just a cheapy old OBD2 scanner that proclaims my EGR is also on its way out (which is not a major issue). 

Clutch was changed at the same time the bearings were replaced. I have used a sat nav on my phone to confirm that I am doing pretty much exactly 1/3rd over the indicated speed. So 20mph on clocks is 30mph, 50mph on clocks is 75mph, etc. 

Need to perform the Battery disconnect trick next before going any further. 

[flash22]

what size tyres are on the car ?

 

Edit. just looked up the MO of the vss, its a direct can bus signal to the cluster

ideally, you need Techstream to see what is being sent and if the cluster is working correctly and calibrated - with the use of active tests