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Posted
Just now, mr_blibby said:

Meant the side speaker in the dash to the left of the HUD

Do you mean this one?

IMG_20240823_185508147.jpg

Posted
14 hours ago, Redgobofraggle said:

Do you mean this one?

IMG_20240823_185508147.jpg

image.thumb.png.b291ebc3c385d29859bb5e8b10a56509.png

  • Like 1
Posted
12 minutes ago, mr_blibby said:

image.thumb.png.b291ebc3c385d29859bb5e8b10a56509.png

How's does it detach and refit? 

Is it easy and do e without anything snapping?

Posted
On 8/19/2024 at 5:39 PM, jthspace said:

Mine is due at the dealer next Thursday. Got the VIN and it says it’s Japanese built. 

JTDKGAGB10A028XXX

It's on a personal plate but will be first registered in September. 

Getting twitchy now......

I can assure you it’s built in France Jeff.  There’s a way of using a J vin no in Europe.   The key is the A before the last 6 numbers.  

IMG_0731.png

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Posted

Ok, my car tracking now says it’s back in Grimsby after being in Derbyshire last week… is it on the boat back after failing checks? 


Posted

Still showing as in transit Grimsby but assume it on the way to the dealer as I got an email this morning to accept the registration number…

Posted
On 8/23/2024 at 2:05 PM, Bob66 said:

The Premiere comes in a number of flavours...not just Urban Khaki.

But that would have involved paying for paint and the car was way over budget already, we went in looking at a Design!!!!

  • Like 2
Posted
22 hours ago, HarryW2024 said:

Ok, my car tracking now says it’s back in Grimsby after being in Derbyshire last week… is it on the boat back after failing checks? 

My Aygo X has gone back to Toton rail terminal after being at Derbyshire. Very odd.

Posted

When the tracking app shows your vehicle has gone back a step - it actually means it is moving on a step, it's a long standing quirk of the tracking.

It means the vehicle has left the last location but not yet arrived at the next location.

Both these vehicles will have now left Derby & be on the back of transporter lorries heading to the relevant Toyota main dealers.

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Posted
On 8/26/2024 at 5:19 AM, anchorman said:

I can assure you it’s built in France Jeff.  There’s a way of using a J vin no in Europe.   The key is the A before the last 6 numbers.  

IMG_0731.png

My Aygo X has a 0 (zero) as the 11th character and it was built in Kolin

My Corolla has an E and it was Burnaston built.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, forkingabout said:

When the tracking app shows your vehicle has gone back a step - it actually means it is moving on a step, it's a long standing quirk of the tracking.

It means the vehicle has left the last location but not yet arrived at the next location.

Both these vehicles will have now left Derby & be on the back of transporter lorries heading to the relevant Toyota main dealers.

Spot on, just spoke to dealer it arrived this morning hence email to confirm reg number. 
is that a record, 16 days from order…..

got to give them a week to prep, although I need 2 weeks to off load my Kodiaq as the trade in was derisory 😂.

  • Like 2
Posted
18 hours ago, Kental said:

But that would have involved paying for paint and the car was way over budget already, we went in looking at a Design!!!!

My point was...you implied that the Premiere model was only available in Urban Khaki, which is not the case.

Posted
5 hours ago, Bob66 said:

My point was...you implied that the Premiere model was only available in Urban Khaki, which is not the case.

Sorry for the misunderstanding 

Posted

Just been to have a look before it goes through prep, tbh I’m a bit disappointed that Toyota fit ‘cheap’ inefficient tyres as standard, given economy is a big selling point for the brand.
My YCP has Falken Zeix 310A Ecorun 215/50/18 fitted, as do all of the other YCP’s I could sight in the dealership (x4).

Why or why don’t they fit A rated tyres instead of C rated Falkens as my reading says there’s at least 3% economy difference Between them.

 


Posted
50 minutes ago, HarryW2024 said:

Why or why don’t they fit A rated tyres instead of C rated Falkens as my reading says there’s at least 3% economy difference Between them.

 

Black Circles 215 50 18

B C and D rated, couldn't see an A

Kumho Solus or Michelin CrossClimate would be my choice, but not for a while!

Posted

Tbh I’ve looked at the Falken home site and they show as Eff B on there… not withstanding that Falken are not a premium brand, but middling. I’m not going to rip them off the car though 😂

 

however just for the record here’s a random selection of eff A tyres…

https://www.atseuromaster.co.uk/search/tyres-215-50-18

from those the Michelin E Primacy is probably the best equivalent with the same load rating of 92 so will not be stiffer sidewalls but slightly higher speed rating W vs V which is a non issue.

Posted

ATS is owned by Michelin

Posted

Don't read too much into it - Those A-E ratings are practically meaningless, even moreso when compared between manufacturers, as it's the manufacturers themselves who give the ratings, not an independent body, and they all measure them differently!!

I remember the most efficient tyres I had on my Mk1 were Continental PremiumContact 2E's, but they were rated as E for fuel efficiency, yet they were much better than the A rated CPC5's and the B rated Cooper CS2s and Dunlop SR2s...!

And don't get the E-Primacys - Lots of tests show the wet grip in those is astonishingly bad for Michelins. According to TyreReviews, the internet's premiere tyre nerd :laugh: , the lower rolling resistance is from shaving down the tread to lower than normal and using a harder compound to compensate for tyre life.

I must say the 2-week old Primacy4's I've got on have very good grip, but are not as good in the wet as the Hankooks and Goodyears I've had before.

 

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Posted
7 hours ago, Kental said:

Sorry for the misunderstanding 

No worries, bud...it's all good. 🙂

Posted
On 8/25/2024 at 8:43 AM, Redgobofraggle said:

How's does it detach and refit? 

Is it easy and do e without anything snapping?

it easily pops out and snaps back in. Also worth checking the cover of the vanity mirror in the sun visor isn't rattling. Unfortunately I have still have a rattle - think its the interface of the dash and the demister for the windscreen or the base of the cover of the a-pillar - not easy to track down as only does it at a specific resonance and not that safe if driving at the same time - best to have someone else drive whilst you prod about

Posted
12 minutes ago, mr_blibby said:

it easily pops out and snaps back in. Also worth checking the cover of the vanity mirror in the sun visor isn't rattling. Unfortunately I have still have a rattle - think its the interface of the dash and the demister for the windscreen or the base of the cover of the a-pillar - not easy to track down as only does it at a specific resonance and not that safe if driving at the same time - best to have someone else drive whilst you prod about

That's the two places it seems my rattle could be from. Certainly don't want a full dash removal so looking for easy non invasive ideas to start. I'd definitely say it's a vibration rattle from two plastic items though. 

Posted
32 minutes ago, Redgobofraggle said:

That's the two places it seems my rattle could be from. Certainly don't want a full dash removal so looking for easy non invasive ideas to start. I'd definitely say it's a vibration rattle from two plastic items though. 

would have to be a lot worse to contemplate a dash removal... think its painful process of eliminating items one by one - I have a specific road surface (a gravel chip resurface) near me that sends it mad, so have Mrs_B driving along it whilst... I'm prodding about ... keeps the locals amused and us out of the pub 🙂

  • Haha 2
Posted
15 minutes ago, mr_blibby said:

would have to be a lot worse to contemplate a dash removal... think its painful process of eliminating items one by one - I have a specific road surface (a gravel chip resurface) near me that sends it mad, so have Mrs_B driving along it whilst... I'm prodding about ... keeps the locals amused and us out of the pub 🙂

If either of us determines the cause, let's post it here 😄

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/2/2024 at 2:07 PM, Redgobofraggle said:

If either of us determines the cause, let's post it here 😄

reduced some of the rattles by removing the central speaker cover and sticking some small felt pads along the rim where it rests - done similar with the side Speakers. The cover requires a bit of care to remove without scratching the top of the dash. reduced some of the rattles but not all - I think the driver side A-pillar cover is the source of most the others but haven't worked out how to stop it moving.....if anyone has any thoughts....   these are quite useful for stopping rattles - lined the inside of the armrest and added to the glove box and seat belt buckles https://www.poundland.co.uk/pepco-felt-furniture-protector-pads-pack-of-60-black bargain for 75p !

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, mr_blibby said:

reduced some of the rattles by removing the central speak and sticking some small felt pads along the rim where it rests - done similar with the side speakers. The centre speak cover requires a bit of care to remove without scratching the top of the dash. reduced some of the rattles but not all - I think the driver side A-pillar cover is the source of most the others but haven't worked out how to stop it moving.....if anyone has any thoughts....

If you have any rattling from plastic interior covers these maybe because of fixing clips been put of the base hole made on the plastic. Often when reinstalling these interior plastics those white clips missing, or remained on the bodywork and then the cover been placed on top it will rattle afterwards. 
To check you need to remove the whole panel, inspect all clips are correctly positioned into the panel and reattach the panel back, make sure all clips clicked in properly. 👌

  • Like 1

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