Fuel Door Release Cable

[Drumm]

Hello all. I have a Toyota Yaris 2014 (2012-2014 5-door hatchback). I had problems with my fuel door release cable (I think) last winter when I could not lift up the lever to open it. If I did manage to lift it and open the flap, it would stay up, and the pin would remain compressed. Then it would slowly release itself. This only happened at below-freezing temperatures (I am in Canada), and when it melted, everything was fine. We are in the summer now, and it was +30 and raining the other day. I pulled up to a gas station and had the same problem. The lever by the passenger side was tight; I did open the flap, and the pin remained compressed for a while. After doing some research, it might be some rust on the cable preventing it from sliding freely. Lubricating the pin from the outside is useless, nothing gets onto the cable itself. Is there any way to pull it out slightly outside or detach it and pull inside to try to spray the lubricant onto the cable and not the plastic parts? I have a photo of what it looks like from the inside (taken from the access to the tail light, and I can only feel it with my fingers, going inside there with a tool would be close to impossible since the space is really restricted). If this could be pulled in or out, I could then try to spray the lubricant with a thin nozzle inside and see if it solves the problem.

[Knorton]

Looks like you should be able to depress the grey tag (uper right of your pic) and withdraw the cable complete with the locking pin. And then in the cold light of day you should be able to see how to get some lube into it. Disclosure I have not removed one myself just going on what is presented in your photo. 

Kev.

[jthspace]

Check out sprays that cyclists / motorcyclists use for cables. Do not use WD40 as it is NOT a lubricant. Check each end to see which may be easier to get some lubricant in.  

A small syringe with lube may be able to get in the restricted space? 

There are YouTube vids. Maybe consider a new cable as once it's started to go, it may well fail at the most inconvenient time. 

[Parts-King]

GT85 with PTFE lube, thats what cyclists and bikers use for cable lube, I have a few tins at home to spray down the brake and gear cables. Not sure if available worldwide but there will certainly be an equivalent 

[forkingabout]

GT85 is made by the WD-40 company.

We use it at work & its on the Toyota forklifts UK parts system - I have a few cans in the COSHH cupboard in the workshop. 

[Parts-King]

4 minutes ago, forkingabout said:

GT85 is made by the WD-40 company.

We use it at work & its on the Toyota forklifts UK parts system - I have a few cans in the COSHH cupboard in the workshop. 

I (think) they do a with and without the PTFE version , ive used the PTFE version for years, always good for those awkward lube jobs 😂

[Johnold]

It’s available from Amazon in UK

So Amazon in others countries may also sell it

[Drumm]

Thanks to all who responded. I have a lubricant I have used https://www.itwprobrands.com/product/lps-1, the problem is I feel none of it gets on the cable or the parts that need to be lubricated. Everything runs down the plastic. I cannot find any YouTube videos with the exact same type of cable being removed. And I do not want to apply force to break it, as then replacing the whole cable will be inevitable. 

[flash22]

see the light grey clip there is another one opposite it

 

GT85 - The nearest alternative in the US would be Muc Off, MO 94

 

 

 

[Red_Corolla]

4 hours ago, Parts-King said:

GT85 with PTFE lube, thats what cyclists and bikers use for cable lube, I have a few tins at home to spray down the brake and gear cables. Not sure if available worldwide but there will certainly be an equivalent 

 

I must be 'special,' as I always did mine with oil (either 3-in-1 or just engine oil) and it worked a treat. 😇 Used the finger from a rubber glove with a hole poked through the bottom as an improvised reservoir and let gravity do the rest. Not any more as my current bike doesn't have bowden cables.

[Big_D]

If you are in Canada, you may be able to get your hands on some Ram Trisol gun oil. This has lubricants that will not freeze. I used this back in the '90s to lubricate the clutch cable on an old Mazda. Worked a treat. Their marketing states that it contains lubricants that will not freeze, oxidize or evaporate and keeps all moving parts working below zero without leaving any gummy residue.

 

[Guest]

18 hours ago, jthspace said:

Do not use WD40 as it is NOT a lubricant.

 

"WD-40 Multi-Use Smart Straw Lubricant

 

The WD-40 450ml smart straw lubricant is an all-purpose liquid for displacing moisture, corrosion control, lubrication, cleaning and penetration. It can penetrate the minute grain boundaries on all the metals. WD-40 protects the metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck or jammed parts, displaces moisture and lubricates just about anything. It is also great when it comes to cleaning grease, grime and other marks from most of the surfaces. This product is a mixture of chemical concentrates suspended in a high-grade petroleum distillate."

[ColinB]

If you can get suitable access one of these would push lubricant through the cable (other retailers will be available:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-Cable-Oiler-Hydraulic-Type/dp/B0BPMHWQ63/ref=asc_df_B0BPMHWQ63/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696443866011&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9154381679402684628&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045774&hvtargid=pla-2194744134681&psc=1&mcid=b428d52ffbda30309e60323eef12666c&th=1&psc=1&gad_source=1

[forkingabout]

18 hours ago, Parts-King said:

I (think) they do a with and without the PTFE version , ive used the PTFE version for years, always good for those awkward lube jobs 😂

We use the PTFE version.

[TonyHSD]

Wd-40 it is a lubricant and also it is the best one. ✅

Perfect for these applications and much better than any oil. 
The wd-40 cleans old dirty lube and leaves very thin film of lubricant that helps moving parts work freely and prevents formation of dust and debris, better than oil. It’s ideal for applications like door hinges, chains , and cables. 
All this from practice. 
Now for the automotive cables since 20+ years most cables inner core used in any car applications are covered in plastic or has special coating that acts as lube and does not require any lube service.
Parking brakes, bonnet, boot openings and those fuel flaps. Look the problem as per flash picture, it is more likely a physical damage than needs a lube. 👍
Could be also in the middle of the length or at the front. 
The cable runs under the plastics of the door shuts along with some wires. 

[Cyker]

Those kind of spray oils are mainly designed to penetrate and wick into tight gaps which makes them useful for freeing up stuck components.

They're not really meant for long-term lubrication though, as they're necessarily quite thin, but will do in a pinch and if renewed regularly.

 

[Big_D]

On 8/9/2024 at 2:21 PM, Cyker said:

Those kind of spray oils are mainly designed to penetrate and wick into tight gaps which makes them useful for freeing up stuck components.

They're not really meant for long-term lubrication though, as they're necessarily quite thin, but will do in a pinch and if renewed regularly.

 

Very true. I don't use WD-40 on my cables. I did once on the clutch cable of my motorbike. Although it worked and freed up the cable for a couple of weeks, it wasn't a permanent solution. I ended up having to replace the cable. The new cable is one that doesn't need oiling