Corolla T-Sport common faults

[DrMagnusW]

Hey guys!

Im currently looking at a Corolla T-Sport 2005 model with 220k's (136k miles), and im wondering if theres any common faults or bad signs to look out for when i go look at it.

The current owner of the car is saying "the left front jacking point needs some work", is this a big problem?

as far as ive figured out, common stuff is 

• 2. to 3. gear can be notchy
• Lift should be "aggressive" (Lifter bolts)
• Oil pump gear (only if driven very hard)
• Rust (but where?)
• Front seats should move forwards and backwards
• Does the heater work? (heard the work to change it is a pain)

 

Am i missing anything?

[Cyker]

I don't remember much - We had a massive Corolla T-Sport following on here back in the day, second only to the RAV4 crew IIRC  

The most common posts I remember seeing were for the lift bolts snapping, but don't recall anything specific.

The Mk9 Corolla in general were pretty bulletproof cars; I think Toyota were trying to take on the Golf at the time, so it was quite over-built to try and lure Golfies to them. I think they still have the most satisfying door closing feel of any other Toyota to date  

They weren't known to rust too badly, but at the end of the day it's still an old car so checking the underside, sills, subframes, exhaust etc. for rust as you would in any old car is definitely a good idea.

 

[APS]

Compared to contemporary cars, the Corollas are pretty solidly build and not particularly prone to rusting (comparatively speaking). But, as they are now 20 years old rust is starting to take its toll on many of these cars. Sills rust from the inside out. This might be what they mean by the jacking point needing 'work'. Look for bubbling paint. It may be the tip of a rusty iceberg. Brake lines often rust before the car does. Check to make sure they are solid. Always good to get the car in the air to see what's going on underneath. These cars are often driven hard so look for smoke when driving. Listen for noises both from engine and suspension.

If the body looks good and not rusty, that's a good start. Anything mechanical can be dealt with. 

[Cyker]

Haha yeah the stereotype is there are are broadly two types of T-Sport owner: Boy racer who's been ragging it all over the place, usually easy to spot because it's got weird random JDM parts and random car meet stickers all over it, and completely stock ones driven to the shops and back by an old lady who doesn't even know the lift bolts have snapped because she's never revved it to the high-cam RPM  

 

[TonyHSD]

Rust is dependent on where the car been used and how been used , as I have seen only 3 years old cars that usually do not rust get rust spots , like Passat and Audis with Scottish number plates with a bit more miles on them, ex managers fleet run on salty motorways through winters. The salt kills the cars. 

[KennyKen1988]

Hello I have owned my T-Sport for eight years now so here are some pointers:

Earlier models like mine use the air injection system. Make sure you listen to it on cold start to make sure it functions.

HVAC system. Heater matrix can block ovetime if the incorrect coolant is used. This can be detected if you get little heat through your vents but the heater matrix is not too hard to change I did mine no problem.

Lift bolts. Check if these have been replaced as they do wear outm I did mine at 105k miles and mine were quite indented but came out fine it's an easy job.

Rocker cover: gasket leaks to the rear left by the engine damper/Yamaha logo are common with age.

Brakes. Brakes calipers can bind so see if the brakes have been maintained.

Steering rack. Sometimes these can be a bit knackered but general with age really

Rust. Rear arches and sills usually. Bootlid can also rust around the Toyota logo.

Oil pump. Can fail if the car is driven very hard or in a track/racing scenario with heavy downshifts.

Oil starvation. This is not an issue unless you plan to race but a baffled sump resolved this.

Notchy gears. This is pretty normal changing bushes and upgrading the shifter can help.

Timing chain noise. Replacing the tensioner at the rear of the engine usually solves this.

Tachometer issues. Once again comes with age sometimes the readings won't move usually take the cluster out and tidy up solder joints to fix.

Seat rail failures. Check the seats make sure they go forwards and back and that they lock solid and don't jump on the teeth.

Anything else I can think of I'll let you know.

 

[Cyker]

That's great info! Thanks for posting it!  

[KennyKen1988]

Just a couple of interior additions:

HVAC centre console buttons, make sure they operate first time the buttons can become a bit inoperative for example turning the AC on and off.

The flappy door on the centre console is very weak and they fail over time. I got in my car once and it had just failed by itself as it's sprung on tight metal clips.

On the front windscreen the rubber seal that goes across the bottom on the scuttle lip can eventually come away. It glues back down easily.

The cloth sections on the door cards can come away and sag, also the roof lining can sag with age.

Centre arm rest can break on the hinges if forced too hard to the sides but is easily replaced.