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Yaris on Motorway


ninanina
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Now I’ve read some horror stories about Skoda dealers, especially my local one I’m put off 

Also read that once the VAG group cars get older and are out of warranty there are huge problems and expense.  I reckon they are perfectly ok while they are under warranty and for those people that change their cars every 3-5 years

I keep my cars for years and the next car may well be my last so I just need something ultra reliable 

So I’m back to Toyota.  My local dealers are just lovely and I want to stick with them so back to Yaris/Yaris Cross or C-HR

My concern with the Yaris/YC is the small Battery as I only do very local trips these days with the occasional motorway drive every few months. The C-HR has a bigger Battery so hopefully it won’t be so much of an issue 

I am wondering if I use a 20w solar Battery maintainer whether that might work well with all three cars to keep them topped up when it’s not used, which can be a few days, and/or just local trips 

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A bigger capacity Battery 45Ah can be fitted to the Yaris, in the car is 35Ah. Buy a jump pack in case for when on limited local use. Or Battery charger if have a garage or ready mode weekly for an hour. My understanding is that solar is no good in winter. Stick to a Yaris and forget the bigger cars.

Come back when u have bought a car? Toyota or otherwise. 

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2 hours ago, ninanina said:

Now I’ve read some horror stories about Skoda dealers, especially my local one I’m put off 

Also read that once the VAG group cars get older and are out of warranty there are huge problems and expense.  I reckon they are perfectly ok while they are under warranty and for those people that change their cars every 3-5 years

I keep my cars for years and the next car may well be my last so I just need something ultra reliable 

So I’m back to Toyota.  My local dealers are just lovely and I want to stick with them so back to Yaris/Yaris Cross or C-HR

My concern with the Yaris/YC is the small battery as I only do very local trips these days with the occasional motorway drive every few months. The C-HR has a bigger battery so hopefully it won’t be so much of an issue 

I am wondering if I use a 20w solar battery maintainer whether that might work well with all three cars to keep them topped up when it’s not used, which can be a few days, and/or just local trips 

Haha well done for doing your research but this is the downside with finding out too much - It turns out everything's awful and has problems :laugh:  I always run into that too when I go too far down the rabbit hole then get "decision paralysis" :laugh: 

If you're really set on getting a new car (Sticking with the Prius *is* an option!) I'd say get a Yaris or Yaris Cross, but egg up the concerns about the 12v Battery with the dealer and see if you can wrangle in a discount and/or a solar panel and portable jump starter as part of the deal :naughty: 

TBH just having the portable jumpstarter means you don't have to worry about the 12v, as you're now empowered to fix it.

Just make sure you know how to use it! (A frequent problem with a lot of portable jumpstarters is if the Battery is totally dead, they won't jumpstart the car unless you put them into a special override mode, but a lot of people don't know that because they didn't RTFM and think the jumpstarter isn't working!)

And when/if it does die (Mine still hasn't, over 3 years and still on the factory Mutley Battery!), you can get the 45Ah Yuasa battery fitted for that much more off-time. (And I think the Yuasa is a much better quality battery than the mutlu anyway, and much more robust to being partially charged)

 

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31 minutes ago, Cyker said:

Haha well done for doing your research but this is the downside with finding out too much - It turns out everything's awful and has problems :laugh:  I always run into that too when I go too far down the rabbit hole then get "decision paralysis" :laugh: 

If you're really set on getting a new car (Sticking with the Prius *is* an option!) I'd say get a Yaris or Yaris Cross, but egg up the concerns about the 12v battery with the dealer and see if you can wrangle in a discount and/or a solar panel and portable jump starter as part of the deal :naughty: 

TBH just having the portable jumpstarter means you don't have to worry about the 12v, as you're now empowered to fix it.

Just make sure you know how to use it! (A frequent problem with a lot of portable jumpstarters is if the battery is totally dead, they won't jumpstart the car unless you put them into a special override mode, but a lot of people don't know that because they didn't RTFM and think the jumpstarter isn't working!)

And when/if it does die (Mine still hasn't, over 3 years and still on the factory Mutley battery!), you can get the 45Ah Yuasa battery fitted for that much more off-time. (And I think the Yuasa is a much better quality battery than the mutlu anyway, and much more robust to being partially charged)

 

Thanks Cyker 

I already own a Noco jump starter which I purchased when I had motorbikes/trikes. Yes it does have an override facility if the Battery is completely dead 

I was thinking that a solar maintainer just might help the Battery from being totally discharged which I know isn’t good for it in the long run 

If I did go with the Yaris/Cross I’d definitely want it fitted with the bigger Yuasa Battery for piece of mind 

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36 minutes ago, ninanina said:

If I did go with the Yaris/Cross I’d definitely want it fitted with the bigger Yuasa battery for piece of mind 

Probably you will be OK with the supplied one - a lot of the issues were with batteries that didn't survive discharging during Covid or second-hand cars that were left for weeks on the forecourts at dealers and then rapidly charged if there was a sales prospect.  

The sticker on my Yuasa says "Keep above 12.1v = 50% discharged" and "10.8v completely discharged and warranty void"

There is plenty of advice here and in the manuals about not sitting in the car with the radio on in ACC mode, but always be in READY mode to keep the 12v Battery topped up.

I'm picking up my new Yaris Cross Premiere tomorrow and I will use the Battery as supplied although I took the Yuasa one out of the Yaris I'm part exchanging as it is only a few months old and I actually never had an issue with the original one; I just changed it as I didn't know the history of the car when I bought it.

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3 hours ago, jthspace said:

Probably you will be OK with the supplied one - a lot of the issues were with batteries that didn't survive discharging during Covid or second-hand cars that were left for weeks on the forecourts at dealers and then rapidly charged if there was a sales prospect.  

The sticker on my Yuasa says "Keep above 12.1v = 50% discharged" and "10.8v completely discharged and warranty void"

There is plenty of advice here and in the manuals about not sitting in the car with the radio on in ACC mode, but always be in READY mode to keep the 12v battery topped up.

I'm picking up my new Yaris Cross Premiere tomorrow and I will use the battery as supplied although I took the Yuasa one out of the Yaris I'm part exchanging as it is only a few months old and I actually never had an issue with the original one; I just changed it as I didn't know the history of the car when I bought it.

I will be buying used 21/22 so that car could well have been within the COVID problem days 

It is also possible that it may have sat around at the dealers for some time which almost certainly would affect its Battery condition 

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8 hours ago, ninanina said:

I am wondering if I use a 20w solar battery maintainer whether that might work well with all three cars to keep them topped up when it’s not used, which can be a few days, and/or just local trips 

My C-HR, with a standard factory fitted Battery, was last used more than two weeks ago. I had a solar charger connected and it started fine today. No Battery issues at all. 

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C-HR has bigger Battery than Yaris. It should start after two weeks even without the solar panel unless you drive very short trips

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Yes, it should. The point I’m trying to make is that a solar charger will help, which is why I included the quoted section

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2 hours ago, ninanina said:

I will be buying used 21/22 so that car could well have been within the COVID problem days 

It is also possible that it may have sat around at the dealers for some time which almost certainly would affect its battery condition 

That’s right and also don’t forget to check the brake discs for corrosion. Ask for new brakes or solid discount if they are badly rusted. 
Hybrids in general does not use much of the actual brakes for stopping and brake discs easily get rusty and on those cars that been seating around in dealers car parks most of the times has badly corroded discs and soon after purchase or at the next mot will need replacement, and they aren’t cheap £400-£1000 for all 4 corners if you go official service. 

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11 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

That’s right and also don’t forget to check the brake discs for corrosion. Ask for new brakes or solid discount if they are badly rusted. 
Hybrids in general does not use much of the actual brakes for stopping and brake discs easily get rusty and on those cars that been seating around in dealers car parks most of the times has badly corroded discs and soon after purchase or at the next mot will need replacement, and they aren’t cheap £400-£1000 for all 4 corners if you go official service. 

Oh Bev, that's torn it, all these horror stories, what's the plan now, Honda Jazz maybe😉 :helpsmilie:  

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On 8/29/2024 at 5:54 PM, ninanina said:

I’ve been tempted by a Skoda Fabia/Kamiq DSG

Please tell me this is a bad idea….😟

 

 

If its a cam belt not chain (i think most are ) it will need changing at either 5 years or 50k miles, Toyota use chains.

The DSG gearboxes are a nightmare if they go wrong.

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24 minutes ago, Yaris_Cross said:

 

If its a cam belt not chain (i think most are ) it will need changing at either 5 years or 50k miles, Toyota use chains.

The DSG gearboxes are a nightmare if they go wrong.

The BS 5 year timing belt interval is officially dead - Page 1 - Audi, Seat, Skoda & VW - PistonHeads UK

The DSG gearboxes are a nightmare IF they go wrong, with an emphasis on IF, the ECVT on  a Toyota will be a nightmare IF it goes wrong    

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10 minutes ago, Tommy X said:

The DSG gearboxes are a nightmare IF they go wrong, with an emphasis on IF, the ECVT on  a Toyota will be a nightmare IF it goes wrong    

Have the Toyota boxes got a reputation for going wrong?

 

One of many results searching for DSG gearbox problems fails - 

 

Summary of Common Problems with DSG Gearboxes

DSG transmissions found in Volkswagen, Audi, and other models offer great performance and efficiency. However, their complexity can lead to issues as they accumulate mileage.

Common Problems with DSG Gearboxes include failed solenoids, high-pressure leaks, electric motor or pump failure, and electrical issues. Symptoms range from rough shifting to complete transmission failure.

If you notice any signs of issues with your DSG transmission, have it inspected by a professional right away. They can diagnose the specific problem and repair it before secondary damage occurs. Catching problems early is key to avoiding expensive repairs down the road.

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I was joking about vw or any other brands. 
I personally will not consider another make when changing my car and will only change it when become uneconomical to maintain/repair. 
Then I will buy another Toyota hybrid, simply because these cars drives the best. They are most reliable and most efficient. , and build simple. 
For me there are only Toyota cars in existence, it makes life so much easier. People are buying  cars because they can and like, they choose by colour, by appearance, by power or acceleration. I do exacting opposite.
The car is a tool for me. Firstly it should be built quality, it should be reliable, last long, be cheap and easy to maintain allowing diy work, and not so expensive to purchase, and parts widely available new or used. 

The best car in the world for me is Toyota Corolla hybrid 1.8 , any shape, any year, any colour . 👌🚗®️

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1 hour ago, TonyHSD said:

will only change it when become uneconomical to maintain/repair

It's really difficult to spot the exact moment when the maintenance or repair costs begin to be uneconomical, as they usually begin to pile up. I was driven into the situation like this with my other car. Despite being made in 2008, it ran fine so I changed the timing belt set with pump last year (~430 GBP / around 25% of the car value). This year I noticed no A/C. Fix cost me around 260 GBP (another 13% of the total value). Last month my neighbor scratched the fender so I decided to clean the rust and apply underseal as it was mentioned during the MOT. When the car was lifted some few more things required replacement - sills, muffler, exhaust and the other fender as it was also rusty to the point where sanding it might cause it to be perforated. These parts costed another 250 GBP + sanding, applying anti-corrosion primer, applying underseal which summed up to the total of 1750 GBP. And then my glow plugs failed, costing me another 170 GBP 😄 So in the last 12 months I paid around 150% of the market value of my car. If I knew about it I would have sold it before the timing belt change, but I didn't so I kept paying and paying and paying and now it doesn't make sense to get rid of the car because in no way I can regain my expenses 🥲 

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On 9/1/2024 at 2:35 PM, ninanina said:

Now I’ve read some horror stories about Skoda dealers, especially my local one I’m put off 

Also read that once the VAG group cars get older and are out of warranty there are huge problems and expense.  I reckon they are perfectly ok while they are under warranty and for those people that change their cars every 3-5 years

The 4 cars we bought before the wifes Yaris were all VAG products, a Seat and then 3 Skoda's.

The Seat dealer was rubbish and having proved that he told us total lies that would potentially cost us money in the long term I referred it to Seat customer services who agreed that the dealer was a liar, put all the matters right (they had no option since it was on a Seat PCP) and gave us a £200 voucher to spend on whatever we wanted with no time limit, got a new set of tyres when required.

When the first service was due we used an alternative Seat dealer but they were also totally useless having left the sump plug loose. They denied all responsibility but again Seat customer services sorted the matter.

The second and subsequent services were carried out by a 3rd dealer who was fine.

Seat customer services must be very busy based on my experience, car was great (no faults in 4 years) but 2 out of 3 dealers were rubbish. Did not wish to repeat the experience.

We swapped the Seat for a Skoda Superb which was followed by another Skoda Superb (which we still have) and between those 2 the wife has had a Fabia. In a total of 14 years of ownership other than servicing we have had no faults, they have been a pleasure. The only reason the Fabia was not replaced with either another Fabia or a Scala was the simple fact that an electric handbrake was not available on either model, something that was not negotiable with the wifes arthritis.

The Yaris has a tough act to follow, you simply cannot get better than the zero faults we have had with the Skoda's.

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1 hour ago, Yaris_Cross said:

 

 

image.thumb.png.baf80ebe4aadf3e52a14369136f13d75.png

 

Why did they suddenly change the interval?

Would you let a water pump or belt tensioner go to 180,000 miles without a change?

 

 

The belts are of better construction, I think polyester and fibreglass, if someone wants to change outside the manufacturers recommendation the dealer will gladly take their money.    

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Just been into steven eagell to pick up a touch up pen.

Completely rammed with PCP flippers. 

@ninanina - good time to pick up a nearly new Yaris Cross because of the new 75 registration.

I saw a 2023 White Yaris Cross on Steven Eagell Watford forecourt today for about £21,000 which seemed a very good price.

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35 minutes ago, Chas G said:

@ninanina - good time to pick up a nearly new Yaris Cross because of the new 75 registration.

Think you will find that the new reg is 74, 75 will be out in September 2025 (the clue is in the last number).

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I think @Chas G were busy thinking ahead to fix the 12v Battery problem that Yaris hybrid seems to have, for 2025 🙂

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2 hours ago, Tommy X said:

The belts are of better construction, I think polyester and fibreglass, if someone wants to change outside the manufacturers recommendation the dealer will gladly take their money.    

You didn't answer the question - 

Would you let a water pump or belt tensioner go to 180,000 miles without a change?

 

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I have a 2022 Yaris Design (two years old today in fact!) and find it a very capable motorway car. If you don't do a heavy diet of motorway miles I'd say the Yaris will be fine.

The motorway isn't its best habitat but it does a decent job: the adaptive cruise control is a particular asset here, and for those dreaded times when you're in slow or stop/start traffic it's great not to be sitting there with the engine running or with a stop/start mechanism constantly cutting in and out thanks to the hybrid system.

A word about VW group dealers and cars: I had two VW Ups before my Yaris and both were excellent as was the VW main dealer I bought them from and used for servicing and maintenance. The first Up had some warranty bits and bobs done but none that affected the reliability of the car itself, and the second one never needed so much as a new light bulb in the time I had it (five years and 40,000 miles). In some ways I was sorry to leave VW but I've been delighted with the Yaris.

 

 

Edited by Spiral82
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