250.000 Km (what to do now?)

[NA-NICO]

Hello everyone, I'm here today to ask you all about my old 😞  Toyota IQ 1.3 (99CV). 

As I'm not ready to throw her away...I wanted to give her a new life checking and upgrading all the pieces she needs. 

I start describing her issues now.

1) White/light blue smoke from the exhaust when I use "engine brake".

2) Loss of power (not a lot) when I accelerate (not every time). 

3) Engine warning light and the other 2 yellow always on or blinking. 

4) Start and Stop not working at all (not a problem for me). 

I wanted to know what I could do, like changing spark plugs, clean injectors, changing the head gasket, changing or checking the transmission chain...

The point for me it's to give her a new life and use it for another 250.000 Km... if it's possible. 

Thanks a lot for the help you can provide me. 

[Red_Corolla]

The smoke sounds very much like leaking valve guide seals, which requires removal of the cylinder head to repair before reassembling with a new gasket. I would suggest at least getting a compression test done to make sure the whole engine is not heavily worn before commiting to a major repair cost like that.

If you suspect that your acceleration loss comes from transmission slip then that's going to be another very expensive repair. At this point, I would start to think seriously about whether any of it is worth doing or if it would be best to just keep going until the vehicle is no longer reliable. It is a car - make the decision with your head and not your heart. Good luck!

[Dizeee]

Surely another 2nd hand IQ of low mileage makes more sense? Could even keep yours as a spare!

[NA-NICO]

On 9/9/2024 at 2:30 PM, Red_Corolla said:

The smoke sounds very much like leaking valve guide seals, which requires removal of the cylinder head to repair before reassembling with a new gasket. I would suggest at least getting a compression test done to make sure the whole engine is not heavily worn before commiting to a major repair cost like that.

If you suspect that your acceleration loss comes from transmission slip then that's going to be another very expensive repair. At this point, I would start to think seriously about whether any of it is worth doing or if it would be best to just keep going until the vehicle is no longer reliable. It is a car - make the decision with your head and not your heart. Good luck!

Thanks a lot for your suggestions. 

I'll do a compression test. 

Regarding the acceleration loss, is the transmission issue possible even if it is manual? 

I changed the clutch less than 10,000 km ago... 

 

[NA-NICO]

On 9/10/2024 at 6:42 PM, Dizeee said:

Surely another 2nd hand IQ of low mileage makes more sense? Could even keep yours as a spare!

You're right but it's not easy to find here a 2nd hand IQ with REAL low mileage... especially with the same engine typology. 

[Red_Corolla]

11 hours ago, NA-NICO said:

Thanks a lot for your suggestions. 

I'll do a compression test. 

Regarding the acceleration loss, is the transmission issue possible even if it is manual? 

I changed the clutch less than 10,000 km ago... 

 

No, a manual should not slip unless it's coming from the clutch. I only thought it must be automatic CVT because you mentioned changing the chain. Usually, there are no chains in a manual.

[flash22]

the first step is to read the codes

to test the clutch put it in 3rd and try to pull away, if it revs you have a clutch issue, if it stalls the clutch is likely ok - I take it you did a full clutch kit including the CSC (bearing) you need to be careful bleeding the slave, make sure the car is level as the valve block can get air trapped in it

 

think the OP is referring to the timing chain, the manual is direct mesh, the Auto is a Push belt if it is auto it is due its 2nd or 3rd fluid/filter change, a Manual box could also do with a fluid change if it wasn't done at the same time as the clutch

what oil are you using 0w20 or 5w30?

[NA-NICO]

On 9/14/2024 at 6:53 PM, flash22 said:

the first step is to read the codes

to test the clutch put it in 3rd and try to pull away, if it revs you have a clutch issue, if it stalls the clutch is likely ok - I take it you did a full clutch kit including the CSC (bearing) you need to be careful bleeding the slave, make sure the car is level as the valve block can get air trapped in it

 

think the OP is referring to the timing chain, the manual is direct mesh, the Auto is a Push belt if it is auto it is due its 2nd or 3rd fluid/filter change, a Manual box could also do with a fluid change if it wasn't done at the same time as the clutch

what oil are you using 0w20 or 5w30?

thanks for your support. 

The clutch with the bearing etc. was changed about 50,000 km ago I tried to do the test, and it doesn’t slide. As for the codes, I will bring it to the mechanic to have them checked.

the oil I use now is 5w30, do you recommend changing to a different oil?

Thanks again. 

[flash22]

its up in the miles 5w30 should be good, but it can cause OCV problems

[Antonio2]

If it's of interest, Halfords are currently selling the correct spec 0W20 oil for the IQ, for £22 for 2 litres - and even the normal cost is £23 !  Even cheaper if you have a Halfords trade card.

[Dizeee]

Is CVT just for autos?