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Yaris 2004 Mk1 Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement


ShiftedReality1990
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Good evening all. I'm just about to embark on a dreaded job on my Yaris. The rear wheel bearing. Been hearing a rumbling noise for a few weeks coming from the NSR that gets louder over 40mph+. Did some investigating and found that the bearing has a 'rough' feel to it when I rotate it by hand. There is no play in any direction when I push/pull on the tyre when it's attached to the car but I can hear it in the car. I tested the OSR bearing and that one is smooth. I have a new hub assembly ready to go. I've pre-soaked the 4 rear bolts with PlusGas to help break them free, but I'm worried about the hub being seized. Given my car is an 04' I know the hub is going to be seized. Saw a video on YouTube of a guy who uses 2x M10 bolts to break the hub free by 'pressing' it out but I'm afraid of trying to remove the lug nut studs and breaking the threads, rendering my car undrivable. I'm just wondering how to easily remove the lug studs so I can try the process myself. 

 

Thank you in advance, 

 

Pete

 

Here's a link to his video: 

 

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Eyyy it's Alan! I haven't seen him for ages! Great guy, knows more about Ford Mondeos than anyone should and still stay sane :laugh: 

Alas he's buggered off to the Philippines to be with his lady love so don't hear much automotive stuff from him anymore.

re. the stud bolts, as long as you whack the tops to push them out it'll be okay - They aren't threaded into the hub, they are mostly just held in by friction, which is why he could just hammer them out. The only things there are the splines to stop them spinning in the hub when you tighten the lugnuts onto them, but they're straight and parallel.

The new hub should have studs in it anyway so unless I'm misunderstanding you (Which is very possible! :laugh: ) it should be a non-issue anyway!

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Oh yeah I have watched his other videos on the Tube and he's such a funny guy. That explanation makes it clear why he's not uploaded a video for a while. I hope me maintains his lady love as much as he does for his Mondeos 😂

 

Oh that's awesome information, Cyker. That gives me confidence on this job. I have everything I need to do the job, I was concerned about the studs. Knowing I can just whack them out without breaking something makes the job sound easier. 

Haha. Yes, my new hub has studs in. I was just worried about snapping a stud on the old one and then not being able to get the stud out so I can thread bolts through the holes like Alan does.

 

Many thanks for the awesome information. I'll update my post as I progress through the job or mess something up 😧

 

Pete

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Good luck! Hopefully yours isn't as rusty as the one in the video! :eek: :laugh: 

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I have never had any luck using a slide hammer. The hub has always been well and truly seized in place.

I find the long set bolts and nuts method, to jack the hub out, has never failed. There are Youtube videos showing how to do it - possibly on a Yaris too.

Here's one. Hopefully the hubs are similar on earlier versions.

 

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12 hours ago, Cyker said:

Good luck! Hopefully yours isn't as rusty as the one in the video! :eek: :laugh: 

Given my car is 21 years old and probably has the original bearings, I'm certain it's going to be well and truly seized. I've sprayed another layer of PlusGas on the rear bolts... Just hope they don't round when I come to remove them 🤔

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1 hour ago, Maurice Mynah said:

I have never had any luck using a slide hammer. The hub has always been well and truly seized in place.

I find the long set bolts and nuts method, to jack the hub out, has never failed. There are Youtube videos showing how to do it - possibly on a Yaris too.

Here's one. Hopefully the hubs are similar on earlier versions.

 

Hi Maurice, the hub on the earlier Yaris does not have those 4 holes in the hub. It's 1 solid unit with 4 studs for the lug nuts. I'll attach a picture of my new hub unit. This is why I asked if the studs come out so I can then thread 2x M10 bolts into it to press the hub out. Like Alan does on the 1st video I attached. I have heard that slide hanmers don't work on these hubs be because they are far too seized to the axle. The rust is almost as strong as a weld 😂

In later Yaris's those 4 holes are used to remove the 4 bolts that hold the hub to to back plate and axel. I like how Toyota redesigned the newer hubs. It looks alot easier to change. 

 

 

IMG_20240925_094247.jpg

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*Update* So I've been out for an hour giving the rear bolts another soak of PlusGas before trying to remove them. I've managed to get the top 2 bolts out as they weren't too bad. The bottom 2 however, will not budge. The rust is atrocious, which is understandable. I have used a metal brush to remove most of the rust so I don't end up stripping the head. Got a few ideas for the bolts involving heat and even hammering a smaller socket on

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*Update* got the 4 rear bolts out nicely as they weren't tight. PlusGas did it's magic. Rust wasn't too bad either. But the hub! Oh the hub! I could not get it to budge at all! Completely seized solid to the axel. Tried the nut and bolt method and all my bolts napped or threaded 😭 I think I require stronger bolts. I'll update once I get some and report back. 

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Just make sure you're pushing against the right thing!

Also this is vaguely relevant...

 

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*Update* I went to Wicks to get 2 M10 60mm galvanised bolts, got my impact gun in and after 2 minutes, the hub fell out!!! 😁😁😁😁😁 I've Just put the new one in and put the car back together. Jobs a good one 😁😁 Farewell, old hub! 

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Hurrah! :thumbsup:

 

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2 hours ago, Cyker said:

Just make sure you're pushing against the right thing!

Also this is vaguely relevant...

Funny that you said that, Cyker. I actually think I was pressing against the wrong bit 😅 The left side was fine but because I only removed 1 stud, I had to slack off the bolt and rotate the bearing 90 degrees so I can inpact the other side. I think I bent bolts because I was pressing against the back of the hub surface haha. Glad I've changed it because the rust has eaten through the back of the hub, exposing the ABS 'teeth' or whatever they are? Car sounds so quite now 😁 Thanks for all the help 👍

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I just had a feeling as it's rare for something to be stuck in so bad it bends the extraction bolt, plus I've totally never done something like that before lalalalala :whistling1: :laugh: 

Glad you managed to do it, hopefully without too much swearing! :thumbsup: :laugh: 

How many miles has that hub done out of curiosity?

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2 hours ago, Cyker said:

I just had a feeling as it's rare for something to be stuck in so bad it bends the extraction bolt, plus I've totally never done something like that before lalalalala :whistling1: :laugh: 

Glad you managed to do it, hopefully without too much swearing! :thumbsup: :laugh: 

How many miles has that hub done out of curiosity?

Hahaha I completely believe you, Cyker 😁 it's all part of the learning curve. The main thing is that the hub was finally removed after being a stubborn git.

Oh no, only a few curse words to myself after the 5th bolt snapped 😅 

I suspect the hub to be the original from factory 21 years ago. 149,500k miles

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It's certainly earned a rest then!!

...

So when you doing the other side...? :whistling1: :laugh: 

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46 minutes ago, Cyker said:

It's certainly earned a rest then!!

...

So when you doing the other side...? :whistling1: :laugh: 

Not bad really for 21 years of service. Can't fault Toyota for quality parts. Feels a bit cruel just lobbing the old one into the scrap yard after all of its hard service. It needs a proper send off, perhaps a Viking funeral 😂 

As for the other........................ just nope 🙃

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Or maybe it could be turned into a trophy for longest lasting car? :laugh: 

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I never used to be bothered with Waxoyl or similar but then I compared my 2006 RAV4 with a member here called SHCM and he’d applied some from new by hand at that stage I think and they were poles apart.  Of course it only applies if you catch it from new or the other alternative is weekly pressure washing which you can do at ground level - just wash around the wheel arches.  He (read that as me over my pit) uses Dinitrol which is expensive but it does a superior job.   His current cars are like new.  It’s nice when you can go to work on something and it is preserved like new for jobs like this.   

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14 hours ago, Cyker said:

Or maybe it could be turned into a trophy for longest lasting car? :laugh: 

Great idea! I may clean up the old bearing hub, mount it to a wooden board or something and hang it up as a decoration or trophy in my living room. I don't think my Wife will appreciate it though 😂

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4 hours ago, anchorman said:

I never used to be bothered with Waxoyl or similar but then I compared my 2006 RAV4 with a member here called SHCM and he’d applied some from new by hand at that stage I think and they were poles apart.  Of course it only applies if you catch it from new or the other alternative is weekly pressure washing which you can do at ground level - just wash around the wheel arches.  He (read that as me over my pit) uses Dinitrol which is expensive but it does a superior job.   His current cars are like new.  It’s nice when you can go to work on something and it is preserved like new for jobs like this.   

Very interesting read. Funny you say this because on my Yaris, it looks like someone has used some sort of underseal on the front side of the car as when I'm underneath doing any jobs related to the front, everything is clean and no sign of rust. Bolts come out fine and honestly not an inch of rust, given the cars age. Same for the floors and seatbelt anchorage areas too, and wheel arches. The rear end was another matter, but I did apply some Waxoyl to all of the rear end after the MOT last year and its still holding strong. Obviously cleaned, degrease and wire brushed existing surface rust away before applying. My next MOT is coming up on 1st November so I'm intrigued to see what the garage thinks of my handy work. Either pass with colours, or fail miserably 😅

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