Yaris Cross mystery that does not turn off the engine

[Aldino]

Has anyone found out what is the reason for the mystery that the engine often does not turn off in the Yaris Cross if you do not drive long journeys. At Toyota they say that this is normal and that there is no error in the system. I suspected that the 12v Battery was the cause, I charged the 12v Battery to 100% and the problem was not solved. The only thing that helps is driving a car on the highway for at least 40 minutes, but that only lasts for a few weeks. Some people say it's the GPF filter and some say it's the 12v Battery. The 12v battery is definitely not a problem. Does anyone have similar problems and have they found exactly what is the cause of this phenomenon. My car is 10 months old and I only have 10,000 km.  The engine turns off in EV mode when I stop at a traffic light and drive at a speed of up to 30 km per hour Normally, the EV lamp turns on when I take my foot off the gas, but now it doesn't. This also happened in the summer when the weather was warm. Fuel consumption increases and the car is a hybrid only when I stop at a traffic light. 

[ThomasL]

GPF or climate control needing to heat or cool the cabin.

There's no error if the computer says there's no error. If an error does come you're covered with the warranty, so don't worry just drive!

 

[HarryW2024]

I actually find that even in Eco the throttle is very sensitive and a 5mm difference is enough for it to not come out of petrol mode once up to speed.

I presume you are coming off the gas and back on gently to kick it into EV mode even at higher speeds? 
 

I must admit I’m a bit disappointed it isn’t easier in ECO than it is in Nirmal or Sport tbh. It seems to me the desensitising of the throttle in ECO is not as great as it could be, that or it kicks in once run in a bit more as I only have 500 miles on the clock..

[Aldino]

48 minutes ago, ThomasL said:

GPF or climate control needing to heat or cool the cabin.

There's no error if the computer says there's no error. If an error does come you're covered with the warranty, so don't worry just drive!

 

Climate Control is Not 100%

[Aldino]

1 hour ago, HarryW2024 said:

 

This is my third Hybrid Auto. I had a Prius 3 and a Prius 4 and I never had these problems. Sport or Eco mode or lightly pressing the gas pedal has nothing to do with this problem. 

[Aldino]

Just now, Aldino said:

This is my third Hybrid Auto. I had a Prius 3 and a Prius 4 and I never had these problems. Sport or Eco mode or lightly pressing the gas pedal has nothing to do with this problem. 

 

[Aldino]

1 minute ago, Aldino said:

This is my third Hybrid Auto. I had a Prius 3 and a Prius 4 and I never had these problems. Sport or Eco mode or lightly pressing the gas pedal has nothing to do with this problem. 

 

[Aldino]

3 minutes ago, Aldino said:

 

 

[Aldino]

13 minutes ago, Aldino said:

 

 

[TonyHSD]

All Toyota hybrids since gen 3 behave exactly the same way. 
The three main reasons are 

1. HVAC settings 

2. Low 12v battery 

3. Hybrid Battery - conditioning 

If you haven’t noticed previously on other hybrids it’s fine but guaranteed that all the cars definitely does that.
Nothing wrong with it. Just enjoy your car and that’s all.

 

 

[Cyker]

Most common reasons are 1) the GPF regen (We suspect) or 2) the engine is too cold and the heating is on (Only when it's cold outside)

To test for 1), drive around in B mode for a few minutes - The engine braking forces more fresh air through the exhaust which helps it regen the particulate filter faster (I suspect) and then it goes back to its normal behaviour

To test for 2), turn the HVAC off.

 

[Aldino]

10 minutes ago, Cyker said:

Most common reasons are 1) the GPF regen (We suspect) or 2) the engine is too cold and the heating is on (Only when it's cold outside)

To test for 1), drive around in B mode for a few minutes - The engine braking forces more fresh air through the exhaust which helps it regen the particulate filter faster (I suspect) and then it goes back to its normal behaviour

To test for 2), turn the HVAC off.

 

I also think that the problem is in the GPF regeneration, but why don't Toyota know what causes this problem. 

[flash22]

are you trying to drive the car by pressing the EV button

A bad 12v Battery will do it especially if it has gone flat a few times, it may charge fine but it loses capacity, get the Battery tested and check what the CCA rate is

[Cyker]

4 minutes ago, Aldino said:

I also think that the problem is in the GPF regeneration, but why don't Toyota know what causes this problem. 

It's considered normal behaviour. Also most dealers don't know jack about how the cars work sadly

[Aldino]

22 minutes ago, flash22 said:

are you trying to drive the car by pressing the EV button

A bad 12v battery will do it especially if it has gone flat a few times, it may charge fine but it loses capacity, get the battery tested and check what the CCA rate is

My Battery was never Flat .Buton EV mode ,I don't Use

[HarryW2024]

Good luck

[flash22]

I doubt it's GPF-related, you can check the percentage with a scan tool/tech stream

what is your consumption mpg or Km/l what is your eco-driving score

[Aldino]

25 minutes ago, flash22 said:

I doubt it's GPF-related, you can check the percentage with a scan tool/tech stream

what is your consumption mpg or Km/l what is your eco-driving score

Eco driving is 3,7 l and now is 4,5 because this Problem.Can you explain to me how I can control the Gpf percentage from carista live. 

[flash22]

you can't control it but can check the GPF percentage it should be in live data, you can force a regen but with 10K km, I doubt there is anything wrong, a good long run at motorway speeds will do the job

 

poor fuel quality is another issue

[flash22]

Is that litres per 100km if so, (62-76) Mpg which is well in the range of what it should be at 10k km (6200 miles) the engine is not even run-in fully and is still tight

[Aldino]

35 minutes ago, flash22 said:

you can't control it but can check the GPF percentage it should be in live data, you can force a regen but with 10K km, I doubt there is anything wrong, a good long run at motorway speeds will do the job

 

poor fuel quality is another issue

 

[Aldino]

I fill up gas at the best gas station in Germany, Aral  . Until now, the only solution was a longer drive of 45 minutes on highway 

[TonyHSD]

But engine constantly running its not a problem.  If you drive longer like 30 min or more and regularly you won’t have these engine running longer events.
The batteries are the most common thing that can trigger a constant or longer engine running without any other obvious reason. 
First is the hybrid Battery - this needs to be conditioned and cells deviation equalised. This process happens with repeated charges and discharges cycles,  this happens when the car been used on longer journeys at motorway speeds. , or start the car and leave it in ready mode for one hour. 
Now the 12v Battery is low and unless checked with voltmeter or other device to show you exact voltage you can’t really know what is the condition. If it’s low state of charge the engine will be running to recharge it even if you have half or even full hybrid Battery level. 
I had bad 12v battery and I know how the car behaved and it’s exactly like that , engine running constantly, and very similar situation when I had bad hybrid battery. Once I changed these the car drives like new without any issues. You don’t need to change anything, just drive it for longer time. 

[Aldino]

2 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

But engine constantly running its not a problem.  If you drive longer like 30 min or more and regularly you won’t have these engine running longer events.
The batteries are the most common thing that can trigger a constant or longer engine running without any other obvious reason. 
First is the hybrid battery - this needs to be conditioned and cells deviation equalised. This process happens with repeated charges and discharges cycles,  this happens when the car been used on longer journeys at motorway speeds. , or start the car and leave it in ready mode for one hour. 
Now the 12v battery is low and unless checked with voltmeter or other device to show you exact voltage you can’t really know what is the condition. If it’s low state of charge the engine will be running to recharge it even if you have half or even full hybrid battery level. 
I had bad 12v battery and I know how the car behaved and it’s exactly like that , engine running constantly, and very similar situation when I had bad hybrid battery. Once I changed these the car drives like new without any issues. You don’t need to change anything, just drive it for longer time. 

I know that the Yaris Cross has problems with the 12 v Battery and I keep it under control. I bought a voltmeter and I often check the state of the 12 v Battery. I took it out a month ago and charged it to 100%  

[TonyHSD]

14 hours ago, Aldino said:

I know that the Yaris Cross has problems with the 12 v battery and I keep it under control. I bought a voltmeter and I often check the state of the 12 v battery. I took it out a month ago and charged it to 100%  

You can use your Carista adapter with hybrid assistant app on android or dr Prius and check what happens with your hybrid Battery.
How it is charging or discharging , what is the different voltage between the cells, resistance and you can also run a life test etc.  

Here an example from my car when I had a bad hybrid Battery and the car stationary keep the engine running constantly to charge and discharge to try to equalise the cells but cell number 9 seemed dead.  On the video and the picture with v shaped cells resistant diagram, then the picture after new Battery was installed, totally different numbers, graphics and car behaviour.
These cars run engine more often than usual in these particular scenarios like when too hot or too cold, when engine needs to be warmed up, or when it’s cold outskirts and battery is too cold too , the system uses the power from the engine to take less stress onto the battery .