An oldie topic but a goodie... Manual gearbox removal...

[Matt51F1]

Hello!

My first post.... I guess many join on the first post being some form of problem.... I'm in Australia by the way....

I have a mate whose wife has a 1999 Rav 2-door. It's done 380,000-ish km and still runs like a dream. Doesn't use a drop of oil... Doesn't rattle either (ok... Maybe a little bit). It's the one called the "Max" age and there's no other badging (and I forgot to look on the compliance plate...)

Anyway, this little car needs a clutch and, of all the problems that people have and all the instructions I seem to find, none cover the problems we're having getting that gearbox out.

It's the AWD or 4WD variant.

Every bracket and bolt we can find has been taken out. There's even a few others that have come out to allow access to some bolts. The transfer case is still attached to the box but the K member and support bars and CV's are all out - but do you think we can get the rotten thing out?

Engine removal is not an option as that means that the aircon gas will need to be released. Then putting it back in will mean retro fitting the system to use whatever gas they say we're supposed to use - and that will cost more than the car is worth; so it's a driveway job.

So... The question :

Does anyone know what could possibly explain why we can only get about a quarter inch of gap between the flywheel/clutch housing and the engine block? We've used hammers and wrecking bars and all angles for jacks - even tried a hydraulic tool to spread the gap. I can't find a manual that gives any more indication after "remove the bolts and pull the gearbox away". I'm looking for that person who has worked on a problem car and worked out why the thing won't budge.

It almost looks line it's pivoting on the top locator pin but we've put some serious strain on it that there's no way it could hold it in. I'm now looking in all sorts of places for a secret C clip or a stray bolt nudged up beside another stopping it coming any further.

Does the transfer case need to come off first or something?

If someone has been in this situation and can offer advice, I can promise to not visit the UK again to visit family for at least another three years  😂 (I've just returned from riding a Yamaha from the north down to the south and back... You lot have some utterly fantastic roads!)

Thanks in advance to that person who knows my pain...

[Terry10]

3 hours ago, Matt51F1 said:

Hello!

My first post.... I guess many join on the first post being some form of problem.... I'm in Australia by the way....

I have a mate whose wife has a 1999 Rav 2-door. It's done 380,000-ish km and still runs like a dream. Doesn't use a drop of oil... Doesn't rattle either (ok... Maybe a little bit). It's the one called the "Max" age and there's no other badging (and I forgot to look on the compliance plate...)

Anyway, this little car needs a clutch and, of all the problems that people have and all the instructions I seem to find, none cover the problems we're having getting that gearbox out.

It's the AWD or 4WD variant.

Every bracket and bolt we can find has been taken out. There's even a few others that have come out to allow access to some bolts. The transfer case is still attached to the box but the K member and support bars and CV's are all out - but do you think we can get the rotten thing out?

Engine removal is not an option as that means that the aircon gas will need to be released. Then putting it back in will mean retro fitting the system to use whatever gas they say we're supposed to use - and that will cost more than the car is worth; so it's a driveway job.

So... The question :

Does anyone know what could possibly explain why we can only get about a quarter inch of gap between the flywheel/clutch housing and the engine block? We've used hammers and wrecking bars and all angles for jacks - even tried a hydraulic tool to spread the gap. I can't find a manual that gives any more indication after "remove the bolts and pull the gearbox away". I'm looking for that person who has worked on a problem car and worked out why the thing won't budge.

It almost looks line it's pivoting on the top locator pin but we've put some serious strain on it that there's no way it could hold it in. I'm now looking in all sorts of places for a secret C clip or a stray bolt nudged up beside another stopping it coming any further.

Does the transfer case need to come off first or something?

If someone has been in this situation and can offer advice, I can promise to not visit the UK again to visit family for at least another three years  😂 (I've just returned from riding a Yamaha from the north down to the south and back... You lot have some utterly fantastic roads!)

Thanks in advance to that person who knows my pain...

Not done that sort of thing for years and it sounds like you have checked for hidden bolts on top of the bell housing? Only other thing I can personally think of is that there is too much weight on the end of the box and it is jamming because it is at a slight angle. That can be the problem with doing jobs like that on the drive whilst laying on your back.Sure you don't really need me telling you to be very careful that the dammed thing doesn't come out at speed with you in the wrong place..

Good luck with it?

Terry.

[Terry10]

1 minute ago, Terry10 said:

Not done that sort of thing for years and it sounds like you have checked for hidden bolts on top of the bell housing? Only other thing I can personally think of is that there is too much weight on the end of the box and it is jamming because it is at a slight angle. That can be the problem with doing jobs like that on the drive whilst laying on your back.Sure you don't really need me telling you to be very careful that the dammed thing doesn't come out at speed with you in the wrong place..

Good luck with it?

Terry.

Just another thought! How bad is the old clutch?? Like was it making a lot of noise? Like possibly the pressure plate has partially disintegrated??? That could jam things up.

Terry

[southsider46]

If all the bolts are out, it should come.  I've seen a broken bell housing because someone levered a gearbox out that was still being held by a bolt he'd missed.  So, don't force it.  Go over it all again and again until you find what's holding it but, don't force it or you might damage something.

[Terry10]

So so easy to miss a bolt especially when doing a job like this on your back on a drive. The trouble is that the car is probably up on ramps at the front end only, so everything can be at odd angles. Been there done that and got the t shirt. Hardwork but needs must. Please please let us know when you get it sorted.

Terry

[Matt51F1]

6 hours ago, Terry10 said:

Not done that sort of thing for years and it sounds like you have checked for hidden bolts on top of the bell housing? Only other thing I can personally think of is that there is too much weight on the end of the box and it is jamming because it is at a slight angle. That can be the problem with doing jobs like that on the drive whilst laying on your back.Sure you don't really need me telling you to be very careful that the dammed thing doesn't come out at speed with you in the wrong place..

Good luck with it?

Terry.

That's what I was thinking as well because gearboxes are a PITA if not coming directly out. We've moved jacks up and down and worked on having everything straight as they need like a millionth of a degree out of alignment to bind up.

I even took the cap off the end of the gearbox wondering if there was a shaft and c-clip going all the way through. No dice.

The car was drivable before taking it apart so nothing had exploded inside that we're aware of. I'm quite amazed that the housing hasn't broken with some of the force being put on it.

Next move is to try and remove the transfer case first and try again.

[Mjolinor]

If it is stuck on the input shaft then if someone presses the clutch while someone watches underneath they will see the gap increase slightly when the clutch is pressed.

That doesn't help you get it out but it will narrow your search.

If you have a half inch gap then undo the pressure plate if it is enough space.

I have not had to do this on a Rav4 but have been in the same situation several times on other vehicles where the shaft is stuck in the friction plate.

[Mjolinor]

Just to add: If it is stuck on the input shaft then do not lever the bell housing or you will break the gearbox. Use the clutch arm to apply force to the centre where it is stuck.

I am not familiar with this specific box, all the Rav4s I have done have been autos but how big is the hole where the clutch arm goes into the bell housing. Sometime you can get a lever in there once you have exhausted the travel of the clutch mechanism to give yourself a bit more movement.

[Terry10]

Did you get the box out yet or still trying.

Terry