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Brakes(lack Of)


CrazySR
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Hello everybody..

This is my first post..

but i've been reading it for a while and it's a great site :thumbsup::thumbsup:

I going to change the front brake pads on my 2000 yaris SR and as there isn't a haynes manual for yaris YET.!! :ffs: .

I was just wondering if anybody give me short description on how to do it and what not todo. :help:

Thanks in advance :D

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Hi and welcome to the club,

for changing the brake pads:

-jack up the front of the car.

-put the car on *solid* axle stands.

-clean the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and open it, have a clean rag at hand nearby.

-take off the wheel and put it under the car.

-loosen the bottom bolt on the brake caliper, remove the bolt.

-turn the caliper up, use a piece of wire to hang it off on the suspension.

-remove the old pads along with the anti-squeel plates, 2 on each side, and the little support brackets, one on the top, one on the bottom.

-clean the inside of the caliper (and the anti-squeel plates and support brackets if no new ones are provided with your new set of brake pads).

-push the piston back, using a c-clamp, this is where you have to watch the brake fluid reservoir not to overflow, if it does clean it immediatly.

-place the support brackets, then the new pads together with the anti-squeel plates, put a light coat of copper-grease between the anti-squeel plates.

-put the caliper back and install the bolt (34 Nm).

-repeat on the other side.

-close brake fluid reservoir.

-push the brake pedal in a couple of times until it feels normal again.

-check the level on the brake fluid reservoir and add if needed.

-put wheels back on (103Nm).

-put the car back on the ground.

Cheers, Yves.

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It is simple, just do one wheel at a time, work carefully, keep things clean, put everything orderly and don't try to rush it.

You'll do fine :thumbsup: .

Cheers, Yves.

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are my posts invisible ? :blink:

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note , if you use a length of air hose from aquatic suppliers on top of the caliper bleed nipple going into an empty bottle or similar ,pushing the piston back is 5 times easier also no mess is made at all. :thumbsup:

use this technique when bleeding brakes also :thumbsup:

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note , if you use a length of air hose from aquatic suppliers on top of the caliper bleed nipple going into an empty bottle or similar ,pushing the piston back is 5 times easier also no mess is made at all. :thumbsup:

use this technique when bleeding brakes also :thumbsup:

so that you can draw air in the system and then having to bleed it when there's no need to?

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no air is drawn in when pushing the piston back. .once its back you nip up the nipple , where do you get your facts from a comic ?

the first push on the piston forces brake fluid into the pipe so how the hell can air get in.do some homework :thumbsup:

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Mr. Maleborn, your comment regarding bottles wasn't so obvious as you think... and I get the feeling you prolly shouldn't enter a techy head-2-head to with Yvvan! :lol:

We're watching j000000!

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oh i'm shaking in my boots . goto Halfords and buy a self bleed kit , then you'll all wake up to the light of day.

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i been working on cars for 20 years or more , have always done it this way , never had any problems ,and now its letting air in. please.

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note , if you use a length of air hose from aquatic suppliers on top of the caliper bleed nipple going into an empty bottle or similar ,pushing the piston back is 5 times easier also no mess is made at all

I accept that you're proficient and switched on, but is this advice suitable for a novice? Not really! one minor screw-up and the system's gonna suck up a big bubble of air! It's the way I do it too, but it's not as idiot-proof.

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i really dont think novices should be messing around with brakes at all , and that the topic should not be given advice on at all in my opinion.seen it many times they get all done and dont bother to pump up the peddle before moving off , you can guess the rest

stay safe have it done by a garage guys. :thumbsup:

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changed the pads this morning, easiest set of pads i've ever changed, but I wouldn't go so far draining fluid,would be a pain in the rear :blink: to be bleeding the brakes for a 10 minute job.

anyway I was only asking the question because i've nether worked on a toyota before, My experience has only ever been with vauxhalls, and few less reliable french vehicles :D, didn't mean to start an argument.

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no argument bud , i do things my way , a way that works for me and at times on old cars pushing the piston back can be hard ,so cracking the bleed nipple makes it easier.if people disagree they should say so ,and not make false statements based on their own mistakes.its a forum for discussion it would be boring if we all thought the same and had no points of view.

i think black pads are heat resistant for everyday road use and the blue ones for harder braking situations .red ones are for high performance cars and track days.

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Does any body know whats the differecnce between the black and blue pads?

ones black and ones blue..... :rolleyes:

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no argument bud , i do things my way , a way that works for me and at times on old cars pushing the piston back can be hard ,so cracking the bleed nipple makes it easier.if people disagree they should say so ,and not make false statements based on their own mistakes.its a forum for discussion it would be boring if we all thought the same and had no points of view.

i think black pads are heat resistant for everyday road use and the blue ones for harder braking situations .red ones are for high performance cars and track days.

It'd scare the hell out me if I had to crack the bleed nipples every time I changed the pads, i've had far to many of those :censor: s snap on me, even after heating, grease and WD40.

Oh and it was toyota who gave me the choice of Black or Blue Pads, I took the blue pads cause that's whats on it already.

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