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2zz-ge Motor


Toyosupra[pt]
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Do you know which will be the next step of this amazing motor?

Toyota will put more hp? (how many?)

More torque? (using kompressor? or no)

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I've seen on a South African official toyota site that thee're gonna istall some new version of the 2ZZ-GE in january, 2005. It looks like they're gonna increase mid-range torque, but leave the max. power the same...

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the super charger will most likely remain an 'optional' add on that you must buy and install yourself.

Toyota are too conservative at the moment to produce an exciting car

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yea...it seems toyota feels that making slow famliy cars that are fuel effecient are the way of the future...and of the walet. Well i say...bring back the rear wheel drive corollas and mister...u have yourself a sale! :drool:

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Well, I must agree with toyota! 95 RON fuel cost 0.25 pounds over here and it is already quite costy for me! Thanks got mine is a company car! And over in europe it's twice as epensive! I do like 25000 miles a year and... well... 1.6 is the most i could afford!

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Bzn fuel is around £0.90 per Litre here in the UK, we get heavily taxed for fuel.

I hope the evlove the 2zz-ge, in the next few years i will look for a New CTS and they have done loads in the style department and even improved the handling, i think that improving the mid range response would be a key thing for me, i am not sure if they could improve the engine to develop more torque?

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Hmmm. Take a look at this:

http://www.geocities.com/vvtlikick/calculator.html

for all those thinking it is possible to land in the lift 1st-2nd or even 3rd-4th!!!

Don't know how correct the data is though... Still pretty interesting!

You can't figure it out from just the gear ratio data. You will also need to take into account the momentum of the engine (specifically its moment of inertia) and the performance of the clutch.

You are travelling at first gear at 8350rpm. You dip the clutch and select second, with the engine still at 8350rpm. When the clutch re-engages the momentum of the engine gives you a speed surge as it slows, transferring speed to the car. When the clutch is fully engaged, you will still be in the lift zone, even though in theory the gears do not overlap.

Cheers

Paul.

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You are travelling at first gear at 8350rpm. You dip the clutch and select second, with the engine still at 8350rpm. When the clutch re-engages the momentum of the engine gives you a speed surge as it slows, transferring speed to the car. When the clutch is fully engaged, you will still be in the lift zone, even though in theory the gears do not overlap.

This way you will kill your clutch pretty soon.

Best,

tx

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You are travelling at first gear at 8350rpm.  You dip the clutch and select second, with the engine still at 8350rpm.  When the clutch re-engages the momentum of the engine gives you a speed surge as it slows, transferring speed to the car.  When the clutch is fully engaged, you will still be in the lift zone, even though in theory the gears do not overlap.

This way you will kill your clutch pretty soon.

Best,

tx

I've done this every day for 20000 miles and the clutch is fine. I think you will find that you get more clutch wear just starting from standstill. That puts the biggest load on the clutch.

Cheers

Paul.

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It is possible to stay in lift throug gears 1-3 deff as I have done it.

Not sure after that as speed is quite high and as I already have 2 many points on license I tend to ease back to speed limits :angry:

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You are travelling at first gear at 8350rpm.  You dip the clutch and select second, with the engine still at 8350rpm.  When the clutch re-engages the momentum of the engine gives you a speed surge as it slows, transferring speed to the car.  When the clutch is fully engaged, you will still be in the lift zone, even though in theory the gears do not overlap.

This way you will kill your clutch pretty soon.

Best,

tx

Well i always release the accelerator just a bit, so that the needle is right where i'm supposed to land. As I was told this is best for the clutch... When i'm just riding along i excersise by changing through the gears without the synchronizer working (thus without pushes)...

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Hmmm...

I've done this every day for 20000 miles and the clutch is fine. I think you will find that you get more clutch wear just starting from standstill. That puts the biggest load on the clutch.

Quite frankly, this seems correct!!!

Think of it yourself - starting from idle, you rev the engine upto 2000 (which is arguably the same thing as you rev it upto 8200 when you should be doing 6000), but the friction (and other "neutralizing" forces) that takes place when you are idle is relatively MUCH less than when you are at a speed.

So when you are standing, it really seems that you do load it much more than when you don't release the accelerator when shifting from max revs!!!

Well, see if i'm correct on the next service interval!!! :)

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Think of it yourself - starting from idle, you rev the engine upto 2000 (which is arguably the same thing as you rev it upto 8200 when you should be doing 6000), but the friction (and other "neutralizing" forces) that takes place when you are idle is relatively MUCH less than when you are at a speed.

Don't think so. When you release the clutch too fast while starting your wheels will begin to spin. When upshifting in most cases it won't happen because of different gearing. As a result the clutch will slip. In addition there is more torque available from the engine at 6 krpm than at 2 krpm, resulting in even more spin, and higher stress to the clutch.

tx

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Don't think so. When you release the clutch too fast while starting your wheels will begin to spin. When upshifting in most cases it won't happen because of different gearing. As a result the clutch will slip. In addition there is more torque available from the engine at 6 krpm than at 2 krpm, resulting in even more spin, and higher stress to the clutch.

Think of it this way. The wear on the clutch depends on the resistance provided by the wheels. If the wheels were off the ground, you would not be able to slip the clutch.

At standstill, the resistance provided by the tyres can be huge, more than they can sustain so they break traction and spin. That is much less likely to happen at 30mph, hence there must be less of a load on the transmission.

Starting from standstill is a big deal for the clutch, even if you are gentle.

Cheers

Paul.

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