Boost On The Mr2?

[projectprelude]

found out earlier that mines running 12. whats standard and whats safe to take it too?

[Jimlad]

you mean 12psi ... if you get a FCD and some sort of boost controller, you should be able to up it to 15 at least.

[pizza boy]

12?! It should be 13psi. The highest itll spike on a readout will be 15psi at around 4400rpm. But it settles to 13 to the redline. You can safely go to 17psi..provided the cars in proper working condition without an fcd even...standard FC is around 20psi or somethin very high. But if its at 12psi..something somewhere isnt working right.

[Stu8]

I used to get boost cut at 13-15psi

Rough guess as I dont have a psi guage; just a bar one.

[KiwiMR2]

Type I & II the boost will vary betwenn 7-11 psi with Fuel cut kicking in around 11.?, Type III upwards stock should be 7-13 psi with a fuel but of 18.?

IMO a healthy ct20b should be happy up to 20 psi depending on outsided temps etc :)

Cheers

KiwiMR2

[projectprelude]

so do you think its safe to take it to about 18psi? its a rev3

[Stu8]

I was speaking to fensports today about this, and they say 20psi is OK for a rev 3 upwards if everything is in good working order

[Karma Supra]

Nick, did you ever get that leccy boost controller?

[pizza boy]

Hey Projectprelude Im at 17psi on a piggyback ecu mapped on a dyno. If your just using a G-valve or bleed valve its a bit risky to take it to 18psi. Bear in mind the wear on your clutch and prepare for cack fuel consumption..its not an efficient way to increase power. Make sure the car is in condition to hack the boost...otherwise any weak point in the car can become disasterous due to the massive increase in strain your planning. You changed the belts? Oil? plugs? Is the Turbo clean? hows your gbox etc..the list goes on. Just be careful m8!

[KiwiMR2]

IMO if you have your intake & exhaust done 18 in short bursts would be fine assuming as pizza boy mentions the basics are up to scratch.....I wouldn't run it all the time though, especially when it's hot out :) Although the ct20b is a ceramic turbo it's still a very under-rated OEM turbo & IMO can handle those higher boost figures assuming ain't already close to failling apart :)

Cheers

KiwiMR2

[veilside_mr2]

erm...why can the rev1 only handle 15psi safely and the rev3 20psi?

I know the turbo`s are different, but are the internals different too? (maybe the rev3 has metal head gasket or forged pistons as std?)

[KiwiMR2]

erm...why can the rev1 only handle 15psi safely and the rev3 20psi?

I know the turbo`s are different, but are the internals different too? (maybe the rev3 has metal head gasket or forged pistons as std?)

←

The Type I, II, & III 3sgte can handle 20 psi no problems, it's the turbo itself that can't handle it & the differenc in fuel systems between the revisions. CT26 just blows hot air from about 15 psi upwards were as the CT20b still makes usable power under the right conditions. The Type III has 540cc injectors & the ecu has fuel maps up to the 18.? psi fuel cut where as the type I & II only 440cc and fuel maps to the lower set fuel cut.

Cheers

KiwiMR2

[projectprelude]

thanks for your replies.

The cars been set up on the rolling road at power engineering and they say its running perfectley as it is (maybe i shouldnt fiddle)

The car is in perfect running order yep its had its oil changes and its belt changed (havent done plugs)

i wont use a grainger valve i dont like the idea of them the only way i will do it is with an apexi unit.

Now i dunno wether to stick a down pipe on first or get the apexi boost controller

what do you think?

if i go for the BC will i need one of the apexi fuel computers too?

bear in mind i allready have induction and exhaust and its running 266

[veilside_mr2]

erm...why can the rev1 only handle 15psi safely and the rev3 20psi?

I know the turbo`s are different, but are the internals different too? (maybe the rev3 has metal head gasket or forged pistons as std?)

←

The Type I, II, & III 3sgte can handle 20 psi no problems, it's the turbo itself that can't handle it & the differenc in fuel systems between the revisions. CT26 just blows hot air from about 15 psi upwards were as the CT20b still makes usable power under the right conditions. The Type III has 540cc injectors & the ecu has fuel maps up to the 18.? psi fuel cut where as the type I & II only 440cc and fuel maps to the lower set fuel cut.

Cheers

KiwiMR2

←

sorry to hijack this thread mate, 266 btw?nice..is that at the wheels?

kiwi, as ive uprated my turbo and intercooler does that mean i should be able to run higher boost than 15psi sometimes?...not all the time but on "special" occasions? ive got an s-afc 2 to add a bit of extra fuel and thor said its runnin rich still even tho ive got it set at only 0.8 bar at the minute.

im wanting to run 18psi on high boost..not everyday..but just at drags and when audi tt`s fancy a race..grrr :ffs:

[projectprelude]

"sorry to hijack this thread mate, 266 btw?nice..is that at the wheels?"

fly wheel

[veilside_mr2]

aah was going to say..thats impressive.

did u actually get a flywheel reading?..or did u get the wheels reading then add on the 20% or whatever it is?

[KiwiMR2]

Now i dunno wether to stick a down pipe on first or get the apexi boost controller

what do you think?

if i go for the BC will i need one of the apexi fuel computers too?

Hmmm.....I'd probably do the dp 1st, you should notice a bit more boost with that mod, then you'll probably need a bc to control it a bit better :) To be honest it doesn't really matter which one you get 1st but I'd sooner run more boost through a free'd up exhasut than a not so free'd up one.

kiwi, as ive uprated my turbo and intercooler does that mean i should be able to run higher boost than 15psi sometimes?...not all the time but on "special" occasions? ive got an s-afc 2 to add a bit of extra fuel and thor said its runnin rich still even tho ive got it set at only 0.8 bar at the minute.

im wanting to run 18psi on high boost..not everyday..but just at drags and when audi tt`s fancy a race..grrr

For sure.....IMO cooling is a bit of an issue & that's why I keep mentioning "the right temps" etc. when talking about running a bit more boost. If it's cold out then go for it....if it's a piping hot sunnny day then I'd be less happy to do it.....especially with sustained high speed runs, like long hard boost's. Iv'e seen just over 20 psi on heaps of occasions & Im still running a stock 20b & oem intercooler, but I only do that on COLD nights, otherwise sometimes I cruise around with it on the high setting all day (about 18 psi via my ebc). Most of my high boost runs are when Im lining someone up at the lights too ;)

Cheers

KiwiMR2

[veilside_mr2]

haha cool kiwi thanks.

i may set her up at 17psi ish and see what thats like.

[pizza boy]

Get your decat first projprelude..itll be a big bottleneck for the apexi and your turbo will be runnin higher than normal temps if you boost up and keep the cat due to the "blockage". 266bhp? thats spot on healthy nice one. whack it 17/18:)

[projectprelude]

its 266bhp i havent added anything to that. Apparently all readings are at the fly wheel when you get them from a rolling roadarnt they??

[veilside_mr2]

im not sure mate, ive heard different things, ive only ever been on the dyna pack at thor which gives u reading at the hubs.

I thought a rr should give u readings at the wheels to be honest, as i thought u had to get the engine out into a cradle to get proper flywheel figures.

maybe the rr computers just add 15-20% to whatever figure u get then display that as flywheel figures.

[swales_p]

So what could my rev 2 handle in terms of psi, the only mods ive got are a induction kit + Turbo xs BOV.

Cheers

[projectprelude]

your turbo xs dump valve wont give you any more power.

if i was you i would get and exhaust to free it up more it will work well along with your induction i freed up 21bhp on a rev3 that way

[KiwiMR2]

So what could my rev 2 handle in terms of psi, the only mods ive got are a induction kit + Turbo xs BOV.

Cheers 

←

I wouldn't run more than 14-15 psi max.

Cheers

KiwiMR2