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K And N Air Fliter


phil3345
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Just bought the k&n panel filter for my tsport (corolla).

If you dont want a noisy induction kit I suggest you try this.

When the rev counter hits 6000 it has more of a kick than before not bad for only £43.

There is a thread on here somewhere and it has the complete dyno test showing a 7 bhp gain with the filter all I can say is it seems quicker.My girlfriend drove it and asked what I had done she thought it was quicker proving that she does hammer my car (she will pay!!!! lol).

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  • phil3345

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we installed a BMC panel filter but we didnt see such a tremendous difference?

do u think we should buy the K & N?

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The induction kits i've been looking into claim a 3-4bhp increase for a single cone & 4-6bhp for a dual cone, can'e see how a panel filter can produce 7? <_<

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as much as i know K&N for Corolla TS added 5hp to the top, while good induction kit should add like 12 hp

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Here is a copy of what Imek posted

K&N filter / Factory paper filter

Torque...........Power............RPM......Torque...........Power.............RPM

182,476009; 104,4708532; 4022; 182,006006; 104,4867554; 4033

182,629809; 108,0684671; 4157; 181,798104; 107,8609799; 4168

181,003595; 110,5844891; 4292; 179,454199; 109,6378826; 4292

178,309403; 112,3396217; 4426; 176,754307; 111,0831060; 4415

177,395210; 114,8948566; 4550; 175,122408; 113,4228142; 4550

178,973006; 119,0758094; 4674; 175,982499; 117,0861404; 4674

180,906805; 123,5298528; 4797; 179,334609; 122,4562992; 4797

180,348599; 126,6144120; 4932; 179,482709; 126,0065107; 4932

178,010410; 128,1149370; 5056; 177,138804; 127,4876381; 5056

178,164210; 131,6493736; 5191; 175,506906; 129,3860406; 5179

176,182008; 133,2693892; 5314; 173,875007; 131,2520482; 5303

174,555810; 135,1203662; 5438; 171,887105; 132,4918181; 5415

173,285598; 136,8997813; 5550; 169,899204; 134,2244487; 5550

172,371405; 139,4899737; 5685; 168,979303; 136,1436053; 5660

169,321203; 139,7210844; 5797; 168,415405; 138,4462205; 5775

167,695004; 141,0765748; 5910; 163,223501; 136,7804494; 5887

171,764797; 147,5077326; 6033; 161,947605; 138,5697902; 6011

185,802600; 162,8426804; 6157; 177,759699; 154,6549958; 6112

189,872400; 170,0583087; 6292; 181,823799; 161,6849271; 6247

192,874207; 176,4258329; 6426; 184,819906; 167,9008314; 6382

194,452003; 181,6058192; 6561; 188,528004; 174,5703458; 6505

194,961806; 186,1337587; 6707; 191,168108; 180,9879627; 6651

192,267599; 187,2563158; 6842; 189,536210; 182,7884682; 6775

191,709408; 190,3967149; 6977; 188,260298; 185,4705214; 6921

190,083210; 192,4344430; 7112; 186,628400; 187,1304155; 7044

186,676997; 192,8657327; 7258; 184,640498; 188,6853657; 7179

183,982805; 193,0154285; 7370; 181,584603; 188,7676735; 7303

182,000603; 194,4333797; 7505; 178,884696; 189,3985558; 7438

179,306396; 195,0008219; 7640; 175,472798; 188,5836575; 7550

176,968207; 195,2793481; 7752; 173,128909; 189,1205355; 7674

174,274000; 195,3824758; 7876; 170,072999; 188,4938005; 7786

98,5998010; 111,8056220; 7966; 167,373100; 188,4557727; 7910

All I can say is that it feels faster when the lift kicks in

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while good induction kit should add like 12 hp

I hope so!!! :D

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Hi Guy's

still waiting for my Blitz induction kit to arrive, will let you know what that does, as I'm hoping to have a before and after rolling road test done at time of fitting, :D

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Hi 97paseo,

hhmmm "serious money", this depends on your point of view I guess, I've opted for the Blitz kit as I believe they provide a quality product, and have had a lot of recomendations for the parts, so @ £200 fully fitted and inc. the before and after rolling road test, I think this is value for money, but accept that others may consider this expensive, you pays your money and takes you choice (or is that chance !!!) ;)

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I am confused ... induction kits the extra power is gained by drawing cold air ... i understand how this would work if the air was drawn from the engine area ... but whilst looking under my bonnet (just from the surface) it appears that the engine is already getting cold air from outside the car (near front left tyre) the tubes used are large all along and there appears to be little flow obstruction, so where does the power come from?

also the viper style kits that claim to increace the pressure using road speed do they work or is it just a nice idea?

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Here is a copy of what Imek posted

K&N filter / Factory paper filter

Torque...........Power............RPM......Torque...........Power.............RPM

174,274000; 195,3824758; 7876; 170,072999; 188,4938005; 7786

98,5998010; 111,8056220; 7966; 167,373100; 188,4557727; 7910

All I can say is that it feels faster when the lift kicks in

I would be really concerned with that sudden loss of power at 7,800 rpm... I have to run my revs up to 8,200 so i can land in the lift

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Im off to have a dyno test soon I will post the results on here at least i'll know how much power my car has.

If we get a few people together it is only £30 per car.The rolling road is in Cheltenham

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Here is a copy of what Imek posted

K&N filter / Factory paper filter

Torque...........Power............RPM......Torque...........Power.............RPM

174,274000; 195,3824758; 7876; 170,072999; 188,4938005; 7786

98,5998010; 111,8056220; 7966; 167,373100; 188,4557727; 7910

All I can say is that it feels faster when the lift kicks in

I would be really concerned with that sudden loss of power at 7,800 rpm... I have to run my revs up to 8,200 so i can land in the lift

Theres no point to be concerned.

To get as much as you can from the engine you have to upshift at the peak of the power curve. Reving beyond max power makes no sense, you just loose time and momentum.

BTW, when you upshift, the revs at higher (next) gear aren't determined by the revs you upshifted from. Its the car speed that detemines it. Thus, when you have more power, you accelerate faster, you drive faster at certain revs (ex 7800), and then when you upshift you actually have more revs than you'd have with stock air filter upshifted at 8200 rpm.

With such dramatic power loss at 7800 you just have to be more careful not to "over rev" the engine, if you want good 1/4 mile time.

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imek - generally you are correct, but in case of 2zz-ge you are not... we get in the "lift" more only at 6,200 rpm... from 2nd to 3rd we have to be at 8,200 to land into the lift or we lose some valuable time... of course, thats new filter lands you at >6,200 RPM when you upshift at 7,800... check it out, maybe it does... if it doesnt, well.......

actually, more i look at dyno, it looks as if rev limiter turned on at that point when power dropped, since 2zzge doesnt have abrupt rev limiter

i guess phil3345 can answer those questions the best when he dyno's his car, so phil3345 plz post the results... and check what do you now land at when you **** at whatever your 2nd to 3rd shifting point is...

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Look at torque figures:

Even at 6000 with K&N you have more torque than at 8000 with standard filter.

Means that you accelerate faster form 6000 to 6400 than from 7800-8200. And that makes time difference.

It is more effective to upshift earlier, even not landing in the lift, because for acceleration it is torque that counts.

revving past peak power just keeps your engine screaming, but it doesn't mean it delivers maximum output, which is placed between max torque and max power. Since CTS transmission doesnt keep the enging in the lift zone all the time, you have to analyze where you have more torque - past top power, or a few hundreds revs below max torque.

And it applies to all engines. Our is not exceptional.

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I have to agree with Imek.since putting the flter in the car tries to spin the wheels when changing gear so I would guess it has a bit more torque.I dont know what revs it hits when changin up thru the gears im too busy smiling lol. I will look tonight

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I am confused ... induction kits the extra power is gained by drawing cold air ... i understand how this would work if the air was drawn from the engine area ... but whilst looking under my bonnet (just from the surface) it appears that the engine is already getting cold air from outside the car (near front left tyre) the tubes used are large all along and there appears to be little flow obstruction, so where does the power come from?

also the viper style kits that claim to increace the pressure using road speed do they work or is it just a nice idea?

The air feed in CTS is total crap. Good that it takes cold air. Its EXACTLY the same as in my dad's corolla 1.4. The intake pipe is small diameter, and there's resonator box. Plus its twisty. Whereas induction kits - like injen - have large straight pipe with no obstructions, and there's the power.

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What exactly is a dyno test and would I get much difference if i replaced the paper filter with "performance" filter?

Also what is the best Green, K&N or Piper?

Si

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sim:

Dyno test measures power output and torque of your engine.

Now only KN makes filters for CTS, so you have no choice. But they're all the same, anyway. Good thing is that you buy it only once. Then you just clean it every 30000 km.

Yarisboy:

Of course it's worth. You let engine breathe easier, it revs faster. In some cases though sport filters cause power and torque drop (ex in corolla 1.4 1HP down), but almost always correct power and torque curves, so generally it's worth. Also they move max torque and max power up the revs, so to get all they offer you have to rev the engine more than you did before. Also theres always slight loss of torque and power at lower revs (in my case it is something like 5 Nm and 1- 2hp before 3000 revs), but this is negligible.

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Since CTS transmission doesnt keep the enging in the lift zone all the time, you have to analyze where you have more torque - past top power, or a few hundreds revs below max torque.

And it applies to all engines. Our is not exceptional.

sorry dude, but you are not correct there... I can land in lift every single gear, no issues... you with your K&N (if that dyno was correct , and it wasnt ECU cutting off engine too soon) land at 5,800 rpm where u have much less power than me landing in lift zone... you have less power for more revs than me going off all the way to 8,200 RPM... of course, thats if you have to shift, and I personally usually do have to shift gears when overtaking, since everyone is going around 80... by the time i pass them i have to shift into 3rd gear, which would actually be slower if that dyno is correct

but, as i said previously, it seems as ECU is cutting off the engine too soon in your case, it might help to reset the ecu (i think i read that somewhere) - anyone who has experience with installing induction kits might help... some ECU's also recalibrate themselves, but I dont have experience in that field

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i cant wait to see Jake's dyno after he installs his Blitz induction kit... that should be lookin nice

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Ive just come back in after thrashing my car and it lands on 6000 revs between 1st and 2nd same as it did before. Those figures were from another t sport mine is being done in the next 2 weeks i will post the results then

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you with your K&N [...]

Nervous? B)

spwolf, seems you have the only Corolla TS in the world with different than stock gear ratios, or maybe you put smaller wheels?

It's not only me who upshifts 1->2 to about 5800rpm, but it was also BBC Top Gear and other english magazine which complained you cannot keep CTS in the lift zone all the time.

Sorry, but take a closer look at your rev meter, or have it fixed.

And BTW, cutoff for my car comes just after redline.

These are gear ratios for CTS:

I 3,17 II 2,05 III 1,48 IV 1,17 V 0,92 VI 0,74

and the main gear: 4,31

I don't know how to figure out revs/speed for each gear, but sure somebody here can do it.

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