Yaris Hesitates

[galazis]

Yaris 1.0L, 20,000 KM, recently started hesitating in low gear - low RPM erratically (i.e. some times it does it some times it does not).

This happens when trying to accelarate from 15~20KM/h upwards when in 2nd gear. Starts pulling OK only when speed > 25~30Km/h

This hesitation occurs when the car is well warmed up. It nevers does it when is not warmed up. In fact when is cold or not very warm it pulls quite well in low rpm - low gear.

:ffs: Used STP fuel cleaner, it seemed to work as long as it was in the tank but after that the problem re-occured even worst than before.!

Any suggestions ?

[RossP]

Keep the revs up a bit before you change gear. You're changing gear to early, My 1.0 Vitz Does the same. Best to change into 2nd gear when you're at about 30km/h i have found. But that's my opinion

[clarky]

Did it do this before or is it a new thing?

If its new and still under warranty get straight back to Mr T and get them on the case, thats sounding like one of many things ... plugs, timing or even ****ty petrol ...

Clarky

[galazis]

Hi Clarky,

Still 1.5 years warranty left.

It is a new thing, started December. Before it was perfectly OK. The garage claims that there are no error codes returned.

It has a tendency to get worst week after week. When the heater is ON, there is a tendency to do it less.

One work that was carried out by the garage before December that worries me was a replacement of an oil seal. For that they had to remove the belts. I do not know if they touched the timing chain to gain access to the oil seal, they claim that they did not.

The monitoring computer gadget that the garage uses shows maximum coolant temperature of 94 degrees celcius. They claim that the VVTI mechanism is working OK (The car has very good pull in motorway speed). It never misfires and the idle is always perfectly steady and smooth, so i gues spark plugs are still OK.

I am using exactly the same fuel (95 RON) from the same stations for my other car (Honda Civic) and that runs perfectly OK.

Thanks

[Yarisboy]

well, take it to the dealer

[AusGeko]

:D I had to jump in on this one, normally i just read through these posts but this one caught my eye...you have a 1.0, there is your problem, 20,000km your engine is not even run in yet, there would be no problem with your car except the winter fuel or the cold temperature, your probably laboring the engine in low gear at low rpm and trying to get the car going, the echo is a high revving engine and works best and more efficient at high rpm..

I have a 1.5 echo with 125,000km, it runs like the day i bought it with a few km on the clock, still pulls 0-100km/h in 9 seconds and uses 5-6l/100km and consumes no oil.

Your car is fine and will be for a very long time yet....20,000km is not even a new born :D

[alan.motherwell]

:D I had to jump in on this one, normally i just read through these posts but this one caught my eye...you have a 1.0, there is your problem, 20,000km your engine is not even run in yet, there would be no problem with your car except the winter fuel or the cold temperature, your probably laboring the engine in low gear at low rpm and trying to get the car going, the echo is a high revving engine and works best and more efficient at high rpm..

I have a 1.5 echo with 125,000km, it runs like the day i bought it with a few km on the clock, still pulls 0-100km/h in 9 seconds and uses 5-6l/100km and consumes no oil.

Your car is fine and will be for a very long time yet....20,000km is not even a new born :D

I would disagree with this, I too have a problem with my Yaris 1.3 CDX which started after they replaced a waterpump which would also involve taking off the drive belts, not sure if this caused problem. My problem started gradually and started with a slight judder at low revs in mainly low gears and was also occurring intermitantly and gradually got worse as the days went on and started to become quite pronounced and would even occur in fith gear but would only occur at low revs between 1500-2800. I took it to my dealer not toyota as it's still under warranty and they could feel the judder but could find no fault, i.e no fault codes logged. He did say that it may be the oxygen sensor as he thought it was not adjusting to change in unburnt oxygen levels but could not be sure and I have been asked to run the vehicle until the engine managment light comes on so they can be certain or untill the car becomes a bind to drive, not far off the latter I can tell you!! Please does anyone had a similar problem and know what caused it.

As if I have to drive it like this anymore I'm going to change my name to Elvis Presley

uuhuuu I am all SHOOK UP!!!!!!

Al

[Red Yaris 54]

Alan,

You have resurected a very old thread here. (Jan 2005)

In your case I would suggest that you ask the place that replaced the waterpump to correct the problem.

(sooner rather than later)

[YarisGLS]

Gosh Al, your experience really gives me a second thought on changing the drive belts.... Can anyone confirm this? I want to get my belt changed, but I don't really want to get all these problems with it

BTW, sorry about your experience!

[Gnome]

Belts? Aren't they chain-driven?

[YarisGLS]

Belts? Aren't they chain-driven?

I mean the belt that drives the power steering pump, alternator...etc.

[Gnome]

Belts? Aren't they chain-driven?

I mean the belt that drives the power steering pump, alternator...etc.

Ahhh - nevermind then!

[Ray99]

I've had a few with similar problems. The first thing to look at is the air flow meter. It lives in the air filter housing, held in with two phillips self-tappers. Take out the meter and look down the tube- you should see two thin wires going across the tube. These two wires measure the air flow. If the wires are coated in any contaminant whatever, they can't measure the air flow accurately and a hesitation results. I use brake wash to loosen the coating and then blow it away with the air line. This seems to do the trick. The reason that no fault codes are posted is because nothing is wrong!! The ECU can't know that the sensor wires are coated. The coating is a collection of very fine dust particle that stick to the wires, as they are hot and builds up over many thousands of miles.

[mark999]

Start with the basics are the Spark plugs and leads ok?, is the air filter clean? (dealers often forget to change it) Check the Battery terminals are tight and the chassis earth is good then start investigating further.

Mark

[mcsky]

i would say its the AFM, the air flow meter, was the prob on my 1.0li and also doesnt show as an error on the computer

[alan.motherwell]

i would say its the AFM, the air flow meter, was the prob on my 1.0li and also doesnt show as an error on the computer

AAAAAAAAGHHHHHH

Just had my Yaris back at Reg Vardy again for third time and all they can say is "Computer says no!!" don't they use common sence any more and actually look at the vehicle. I have already change the spark plugs they seem to be burning ok form the colour of the cores but I did notice a bit of oil fouling around two of the pugs when I changed them. I checked it again last week and the new plugs did have oil creeping past the metal O-ring and onto the white ceramic body og the plug. Could this be the source of my problems I told the garage about this problem when I put it in the first time I assumed they would check it out.

I asked what they did today and all they've done is drive it and plug it into a diagnosic unit, I asked if they checked the compression or valve clearances as I have just clocked 60,000 and they have not.

Somebody help!!!!!

Al

[alan.motherwell]

i would say its the AFM, the air flow meter, was the prob on my 1.0li and also doesnt show as an error on the computer

AAAAAAAAGHHHHHH

Just had my Yaris back at Reg Vardy again for third time and all they can say is "Computer says no!!" don't they use common sence any more and actually look at the vehicle. I have already change the spark plugs they seem to be burning ok form the colour of the cores but I did notice a bit of oil fouling around two of the pugs when I changed them. I checked it again last week and the new plugs did have oil creeping past the metal O-ring and onto the white ceramic body og the plug. Could this be the source of my problems I told the garage about this problem when I put it in the first time I assumed they would check it out.

I asked what they did today and all they've done is drive it and plug it into a diagnosic unit, I asked if they checked the compression or valve clearances as I have just clocked 60,000 and they have not.

Somebody help!!!!!

Al

Mr T now have my car they thought it was an o2 sensor, then they changed the crankshaft sensor. Now they are strippping the engine to check valves. I bought my yaris to have a reliable car but this seems like quite a problem to fix. They have had my car for over 2 months!!. Anyone shed some light on their opinion. The have not changed the ECU but they recon it's not that.

Help

[Mad_Ness]

Hey mates, it may be due to all those things, even the belts (try spilling a little water over it to see if it runs better).. but i tend to the petrol... usually i fill mine with 95 octane, sometimes it judders.. or demands lots of throttle and clutch to start going. Then, i go nuts and add a little bp ultimate or any 98octane and it runs pretty sweet!!

cumps!!

[alan.motherwell]

Hey mates, it may be due to all those things, even the belts (try spilling a little water over it to see if it runs better).. but i tend to the petrol... usually i fill mine with 95 octane, sometimes it judders.. or demands lots of throttle and clutch to start going. Then, i go nuts and add a little bp ultimate or any 98octane and it runs pretty sweet!!

cumps!!

Update for you guys with this problem,if it only does it when hot ask mr T to check the oil control valve, that's what mine was, all fixed now after 2 months of searching. Will save you a lot of grief!!

[fish6634]

i have the 1.0 vvti and if i change to second too early it is a slug until it reaches about 3500rpm. If i rev it harder in 1st gear over 3500rpm and change up to second i have no probs. I just think the engine lacks torque low down in my opinion

[sphinktar1988]

also vvti kicks in at 3000/3500rpm

[Woody27]

Mate Vvt-i dont kick in as it is variable throughout the rev range! It may make another change of timing of the cam then but it does this throughout the rev range anyway at fixed points.

[sphinktar1988]

hmmmm ive been miss informed lol

i always find my sr goes mental at the 3500rpm mark

[Woody27]

Yeah agree it kicks there but i'm guessing there is just another adjustment there that makes a big difference