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Hi All - Newbie Here


Unimexsol
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Hi there

Last night I picked up a 1990 (G reg) Toyota Celica 2.0 GTi Automatic. It's got one or two small cosmetic scratches and dents but nothing too serious. The only known faults are:

1) the driveshafts are knocking pretty loudly

2) the abs light is on.

I'd be grateful if anyone can let me know how to sort these. Is the driveshafts a big job? How much should I pay for new driveshafts? And where will I get them.

Where do I start to look to find the ABS problem?

Oh and if you could give me a rough estimate of value then I'll know whether I got burnt or a bargain. :thumbsup:

Many thanks

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hello and welcome to the toc :thumbsup:

I haven't been here long, but I have seen a few posts on abs warning lights, unfortunatley you can't search the forums for "abs" because the word is too short <_<

but here's a recent post

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29308

he had the same car as you I think, PM him and ask if he got it sorted or post on to the end of that thread??? :thumbsup:

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Hello and welcome to TOC. :thumbsup:

Driveshafts or CV joints??? ....... Maybe your best bet would be to get s/hand ones from one of the many Jap breakers, as i believe they are quite pricey new.. I`ve not had to replace any yet but i`ve read a few posts on the subject. ABS is likely to be a sensor. Nice job :eek: But before you replace anything see if the ABS lamp is flashing up a code. Could be something simple like dirt/rust on the hubs/sensors.

As for price. I assume you negotiated likely costs of repair into the price and a lot is dependent on the individual vehicles condition and mileage. If it`s a good un then around 500 - 1k would seem reasonable. If it`s a shed (No offence intended) then a couple of hundred. :thumbsup:

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Could be CV joints, knocks really quite loudly on full lock in both directions. I was guessing at driveshafts but you might be right with CV joints.

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I suspect it is cv joints as well. They normally last pretty well on celicas, what mileage has yours done?

The value depends mostly on which generation it is, 'G' was the changeover year from gen4 to gen5. I am guessing a gen 5 a you say it is a 1990 car. In which case it is probaby worth £1200 - £1800 depending on condition (assuming you get the two mentioned problems fixed).

As for the abs problem, it is possible to get diagnostic codes to flash from the abs light, I believe you need to bridge TE and E1 in the ECU diagnostic connector, and possibly another couple of pins in another connector (by the radiator?). As it is considered 'safety' equipment, then a Toyota dealer might diagnose it for you at no charge.

Alternatively, if you are confident enough*, find a big empty space (wide road, closed supermarket car park), and stamp on the brakes at 20 or so mph. You should feel the abs pump through the pedal, and the brakes juddering on and off. That confirms the pump is working (partly at least), then you need to get a spectator to look for the wheel which is not locking, and releasing (either stays locked, or unlocked all the time, can't remember which). If it is a faulty sensor, then this will highlight which one. Still recommend checking the fault codes as well though.

* = Last time I advised someone to do this, on this board, a few people got upset, saying that it was irresponsible of me to recommend doing it. If you don't feel confident handling a skid at 20 mph don't try it. I do not accept any responsibility for the consequences of anyone following my information. There, that should be enough to keep them happy!

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* = Last time I advised someone to do this, on this board, a few people got upset, saying that it was irresponsible of me to recommend doing it. If you don't feel confident handling a skid at 20 mph don't try it. I do not accept any responsibility for the consequences of anyone following my information. There, that should be enough to keep them happy!

Nice disclaimer! :thumbsup: What is the world coming to these days! People read stuff on the internet it should then be their own choice as to whether they act on it! After all it is anonymous - you may be a 12 year old who's never driven a car before and just wants to see people crash!! :D

* I take no resposibility if anybody gets eyestrain from reading this post :eek:

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After all it is anonymous - you may be a 12 year old who's never driven a car before and just wants to see people crash!! :D

* I take no resposibility if anybody gets eyestrain from reading this post :eek:

Uh-oh, I've been rumbled! ;) :D

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Ok, how do I tell the difference between Gen 4 and Gen 5?

How much are CV joints? Easy job to do myself; or take it to a local garage; or take it to a Toyota main dealer only?

I assume that I get the spectator to stand in front of where I intend to skid from so as to see best which of the fronts isn't locking and releasing. And then do the same in reverse. :D

Seriously, I should hope that I could contol a skid at that speed. Surely if you can't handle a skid in a straight line at that speed then you should be going by bus!!

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fella you can test abs at 10 mph no need to speed , firstly you say its knocking , does it knock at regular speeds , ie the faster you go the faster it knocks ? could it be ball joints knocking , back to abs , look under the bonnet at the right side rear should be a black diagnostics plug , if there is a silver bridging pin take it out , join with a piece of wire or a paperclip points E1 and TC , now sit in car with ignition on , and the abs light should begin to flash a sequence . wait until it flashes 3 times , write down 3 , then count the second lot of flashes could be 1 , 2 ,5 or 6 , write this down , keep writing the codes down until you notice it repeats itself , abs fault codes should be fronts 31 and 32 , rears 35 and 36.code 11 points the abs fuse being blown.also looking at the tyre edges should give you a clue as to which wheel is locking up it should be well worn on the inner edge.if you book it in at a toyota garage they will test the abs system for you for free. :thumbsup: if you decide to change the sensor yourself first check that no wires are snapped , the drive shaft ring with the slots on it is perfectly clean.and the sensor is pointing directly towards the drive shaft and not tilted in any way.error codes should go off when you renew the sensor , if not pop back for a how to.

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probably worth adding that abs trick to the pinned topic maleborn - It seems to get asked a lot :thumbsup:

Not sure who you need to PM to get it on though as the topic is locked now!

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