Good Boot Earth

[mrfil13]

Im using the bit that sticks up for the spair tyre as my earth for my amp, got a new amp and now the power fluctuates. Im blaming the earth. Anyone else know if this is a bad point to earth to. Plus any suggestions of a good earth point on these.

Cheers

[Cubic Incubi]

you could try where the arial is earthed. ?

[dymchurchpaseo]

..............

[daktari]

Make sure that you scrape off any paint where the earth lead connects to.

[mrfil13]

OK, found out the problem, this is an odd one, a electrician helped me :), the earth ok, not mint but was fine, Ive found a better earth. Problem still persisted grrr.

The electrician connected the + of the amp to the remote line in on the amp, worked fine. Basically all in all, either the cable im using as a remote (its good stuff) is to good, or the headunit voltage is going wappy. He connected the remote to the + connection that the Headunit uses and still the same problem, we used a different bit of cable (same type), still same problem. Grrrr

Any suggestions what could be happening on the Headunit end of things, i think it could be either a not good enough + or - on the HU. But the headunit is fine and other amps i have used are fine :(

[dymchurchpaseo]

................,,,

[sotal]

Sounds like the remote wire which switches the amp on is losing contact, so it's switching on and off. Does your aerial move up or down at all (I presume it's electric??)

You've tried another wire so it kinda points to it being a knackered head unit or a knackered amp. You could install a switch on the dash to turn your amp on manually. Not sure on what it wants as a feed. IF it's 12 volts just wire a switch between a live wire and the remote lead.

Try the amp on another headunit - that should show you if it's the amp or the headunit. Or try another amp (to prove your headunit is ok)

[mikeb]

Sounds like the remote wire which switches the amp on is losing contact, so it's switching on and off. Does your aerial move up or down at all (I presume it's electric??)

You've tried another wire so it kinda points to it being a knackered head unit or a knackered amp. You could install a switch on the dash to turn your amp on manually. Not sure on what it wants as a feed. IF it's 12 volts just wire a switch between a live wire and the remote lead.

Try the amp on another headunit - that should show you if it's the amp or the headunit. Or try another amp (to prove your headunit is ok)

←

Try measuring the voltage at the amp end of the remote wire, with it disconnected from the amp. It should be around 12v. Then connect it back up to the amp. It should still be around 12v, if it has dropped significantly then your amp is trying to draw more current than your headunit can supply. You could get around this by wiring in a relay.

The remote in of the amp should draw very little current, so it could indicate a problem with your amp (or just a general incompatibility between headunit and amp). The specs for the amp should say it's current requirement for the remote input, and the specs for the headunit should also state the max current it's remote output can supply.

If it's much less than 12v (but more than 0v) when disconnected from the amp then then you need to measure the voltage where it leaves the headunit. If it is the same there, then the problem is caused by the headunit.

As an alternative to using the remote output of the amp, you could tap into any power wire that is switched with the ignition (check which fuse it's supplied via, you need one that is capable of supplying enough current for the amps remote in).

[sxb182]

The electrician connected the + of the amp to the remote line in on the amp, worked fine.  Basically all in all, either the cable im using as a remote (its good stuff) is to good, or the headunit voltage is going wappy.  He connected the remote to the + connection that the Headunit uses and still the same problem, we used a different bit of cable (same type), still same problem.  Grrrr

←

You say eleci connected to + that headunit uses, thats the constant feed from the batt. It should have its own remote feed on the back of the stereo, if not try connecting to another feed that gets powered when ignition is turned on or a seperate switich like someone else suggested.