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New Turbo Question


BLOODUK
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As some people know ive had a brand new turbo put in as my other one died Over a period of time ive been tweaking the boost controller up instead of in one go , but ive just noticed and after its been tweaked

that the boost isnt going up beyond 0.7BAR , its hardly going

up at all from standard. Also going along the motorway and boosting

the boost guage pointer Shakes when its max boosting and

the dump valve instead of going ptsssh , makes a shakey ptsshhptsshh.

I wonder if the bearing in the boost controller has got stuck again

when the new turbo was put in and pipes messed around with.

Could this have anything to do with the cold temps? my car is warmed up

and so is the oil

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Is the boost controller conected in the correct place - turbo feed to actuator ?

if its no then it wont controll the boost !!

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It should be , ill have to check on that

because the only people that wouldve changed it around

is the Garage!!

It was set perfectly by me with the old turbo

thanks for mentioning , ill check it out

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ah !!

My motor currently does the same in a way. Sometimes the boost just flys round to something crazy like 1.6bar .. then others it'll get to a set level then you can start to hear air escaping somewhere.

My first guess is a cracked/split hose around the actuator area. I got a whole load of silicone hosing the other week. I'm gonna replace all the current hosing with this and see if it resolves the issue.

(I won't know obviously until the car is back on the road)

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Jim i dont seem to be hearing any air escaping it just sounds unstable

especially having the boost guage pointer shaking at max boost

and it wont go over 0.7 bar

This has ONLY happened since fitting a brand new turbo

edit : boost controller is the right way round :o

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I still say the shakey sound you're hearing is an air issue. Loosing boost pressure somewhere. Could be possible a hose has just worn or been knocked.

The boost gets to a set level then no more pressure can increase because of a small hole/split... hence you hear air escaping.

the hoses in these cars are very old and can easily break/crack.

At the same time though, I could be talking total crap!

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The shakey hissing sounds like the compressor is stalling (air from the IC side hitting the compressor blades). Not sure why it's not hiting 1 bar tho. As the guys have mentioned, could be a leaky hose on the IC or turbo.

Is there any detonation (pinking)? Like jim said, the one that connects the turbo to the untake is prone to splitting as it gets pretty hot. The other would be the IC pipe from the turbo side (the long rubber one).

Fuel? Have you put lower octane fuel in lately? ECU could need a reset.

If the controller is on the right way (and you've double checked), and the ECU has had a reset, I'd be looking at the rubber pipes for leaks.

HTH mucker. :thumbsup:

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Thanks for the reply Earl man your full of help give this guy a mod job!!

Anyway ill need to take the controller off to have a look at it , it doesnt seem to be pinking it pulls away fine ... accelerators fine, the only thing that you notice is the boost guage pointer shaking at max boost , and a shaker boost from the bov oh and not going over 0.7!

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The shakey hissing sounds like the compressor is stalling (air from the IC side hitting the compressor blades).  Not sure why it's not hiting 1 bar tho.  As the guys have mentioned, could be a leaky hose on the IC or turbo.

When you say compressor stalling.... do you mean the turbo blades wheel thingy? If so, why would this be happening? Also would it not sound more like a sorts chopping sound? ( as if blades were chopping through the air? ).

I still stick to my guns and say it's most prob a split/cracked hose.

It sounds like it's trying to get more boost pressure, but it simply can't because it's escaping somewhere.. hence the sound and the shaky boost needle.

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Well i looked around the engine and i couldnt find any cracks or splits, reset the ecu

and went out for a drive the car pulls fine and sounds fine, but the boost isnt stable

it hits 0.7 and the needle shakes like crazy and increasing the boost controller still means it stays at 0.7.

I came back to the house and let the car idle to cool down, and the needle was stable as soon as any accleration is used a blip or full acceleration it shakes very slightly. All this has only happened since the new turbo was put on, as the old one died.

Now things i can think of are

1. The is Timing out ?

2. Leaks or split in one of the pipes as was mentioned

3. The Bearing in Boost controller Isnt seated properly hence only going upto standard boost, this has happened before though and i couldnt get it over standard but it wasnt shaking.

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I wouldn't say it was the timing. Why don't you take out the boost controller... just to see if there's a difference.

BTW it could be very hard to find a cracked hose, or one with a very small whole in it.

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BTW it could be very hard to find a cracked hose, or one with a very small whole in it.

Id make sure all the vacume pipes are connected properly as well

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What about the caps for the actuator to vsv ? what have you capped them with maybe thats the problem?..... I'm just throwing any suggestion up BLOOD cant believe you are having problems with that damn turbo again m8 :crybaby:

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To be honest i feel like driving the car off a cliff

its the worst damn engine i have EVER had to deal with

looking at the engine Nothing has changed

the only thing thats new is the new turbo.

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have you taken it back to the garage that fitted the turbo ?

tell them that it was not like that before ?

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have you taken it back to the garage that fitted the turbo ?

tell them that it was not like that before ?

Just keep saying everything was put on correctly

i really need a professional to look at my car

someone who deals with mr2 turbos near my area

problem is im now skint and cant afford anything else :crybaby:

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would the garage not have had to take off the actuator also when removing the turbo ?? (unsure)... another reason why there could be hose issues there.

Defo doesn't sound anything major mate, so I wouldn't worry too much.

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I dont live too far away BLOOD if you get really desperate I wouldnt mind meeting up perhaps looking at both engines side by side might help to spot the difference?? :unsure:

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Thanks guys for all the help , im going to take the boost controller off shortly and have a look at it.

newtomymr2 i may take you up on that offer if things get worse

it maybe worth meeting up at some point anyway say mid way when

the weather warms up .. car chat ;)

edit : boost controller isnt working properly the ball bearing isnt seating properly

inside the controller, and is letting the same amount of air out the tiny top how ever tight the controller is set to... originally it would let NO air through if it was very tight

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YAY boy did that take some thinking :P , When people get their boost controllers make sure they are CLEAN inside , when my controller was made i dont think they cleaned inside it hence particles of copper was stopping the bearing from seating properly and letting the same amount of air out the little hole how ever tight the nut was!

I completely cleaned inside the controller and bits of copper ended up in my finger

now the bearing seats perfectly and you can no longer get air from the small hole at the top when tightening the bolt.

:rolleyes:

This is why i couldnt get past standard and get to 1bar and this is also why it was giving inaccurate readings on the boost guage

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which is what would have been happenening if a hose had a split... geeze.... I was nearly clever there.. lol.

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which is what would have been happenening if a hose had a split... geeze.... I was nearly clever there.. lol.

heh how could a ball bearing not seating in a controller because of bits of copper

that wasnt cleaned out be to do with a split hose :lol:

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Oh come on BLOOD...bits of copper in boost controller/split pipes...same difference lol :rolleyes:

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