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Think I Have Blown My Engine Up.


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Posted

:(

Posted

IT'LL be your engine mounting mate, mine does the same. The 1 that sits on the gearbox under the drivers seat........

£82 from Toyota tho !!!!!!

Posted

Would be nice if it was that but I dont think it is, the sound is coming from the engine.

Posted
Would be nice if it was that but I dont think it is, the sound is coming from the engine.

Its a bit hard trying to work out what the problem just by your description, any chance you can post an mp3 of the noise? TBH, I dont think it sounds like the big ends because the noise suddenly appeared. Even if it is the big ends you can just replace the big end shells (asuming the crank shaft is ok), shouldnt be a big job.

Posted

dosnt sound like big ends to me. think about it it wasnt there this morning, if it were Shell it would knock its brains out until oil got round. could be a cam bucket shim some times they get spat out but would think it would be there all the time


Posted

3sgecrankandshells.jpg

bottom end shells dont usually knock when cold - only when the engine heats up after 10 minutes .if its just started the crank maybe not heavily scored and a set of new little end shells may just cure it, if its the big end crank shells then a regrind is in order. A being little end shells , B being big end shells.

Posted

My dad had a look today and he thinks its cam1 thats knocking.. he says I just need a cam shaft and new shells.. does this sound right?

Posted

a full new cam shaft kit with shims and lifters will certainly cure it. does it tap like the vauxhalls of late , cavaliers etc ??

Posted

dont really want to goto toyota so I'm gonna use find-a-part to see what they charge.

Posted
a full new cam shaft kit with shims and lifters will certainly cure it.  does it tap like the vauxhalls of late , cavaliers etc ??

My last car was a Cavalier and yes, but alot worse.

Posted

using second hand stuff could prove useless as the shims and lifters are all unique to each lobe on the cam shaft and mixing them up will just tap like it is now.may work out better locating a full head and doing the head gasket while your at it.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

If its the big ends it will rattle like hell at one specific rev range, usually around 2-3K, rev it and let off... see what it does, if on the way down it sound like the cranks about to fall out... its the big ends :(

Same happened to mine, only advice is catch it quick... i thourouly destroyed mine, which scrapped the whole bottom end of my engine... not funny :angry:

Posted

I still dont know whats wrong, think I'm just gonna get a new engine.

Posted

If it is your crank, you can always get it re-ground for a coupla hundred. This happened to me on my 406. It lasted about 80miles before it totally failed, and when it did the rattling was all through the rev range and sounded like a hollow but deep rattling. Dont worry too much, even if the worst come to the worst, a totally re-conditioned engine cant be more than £5-600 surely. Good luck anyway groover :thumbsup:


Posted

Hey jappy beast

If you need a new cylinder head and cams i have some at home that i am willing to sell although the head has been ported and polished like on my engine. Gives alot more power above 3rpm now.

YOu could always reprofile the cams as well to get even more power

Pm me if interested

Posted

Bottom end shaeels CAN knock from cold! it depends whats happened!!! if ist just nautral wear they can start up fine, then start takking when the oil gets warmer and thinner, as said... if you have spuna bearing or it has gone you can get a clank (definitely not a rattle, but a clank) on start up, then after avout 4 or 5 revs when the oil preasure has worked its way up, it can smooth out and idle fine, blip the throttle and it will clank a bit more!!!!!

I don't think anyone would describe a totally goosed bottom end as a rattle though... its a heavy clank for sure, A horrid noise and even if you don't understand engines, you just know its goosed :ph34r:

I would personally pull it apart and inspect... Reground cranks and oversized shells are fine as long as the crank was not too far gone!!!

REmember its not just a matter of fitting new shells! to do it properly sent the crank, big end sells and con rods to a reputable engineering company and get them to sort and match the lot... SAving money and skimping on bottom end builds is a false economy!!

I have a spare clanking supra turbo lump.. I intend to take my time over rebuilding it, and use forged internals so I can get the most out of my new hybrid turbo :D

Use a long handled screwdriver or something and put one end to your ear and the other end at various points on the engine.. (like the two yogart pots on a string telephone kids used to use!) Cam covers, etc... It might help you identidy where the noise is comming from!

Posted

"Use a long handled screwdriver or something and put one end to your ear and the other end at various points on the engine.. (like the two yogart pots on a string telephone kids used to use!) Cam covers, etc... It might help you identidy where the noise is comming from!"

My dad did this and its defo coming from the top end of the engine, gonna goto a proper engine place I think, I might not need a whole new engine after all.

Posted

check the valve clearances if its coming from the top sounds like a shim. the camshaft dosent have replaceable bearings (well on a 3S-GTE which i presume is the same design as the GE) but it is very rare for them to wear that bad. hope its a quick fix for you though. it is possible to do the shims with engine in situ and without removing the cambelt (it is tricky but possible)

Posted

If it was a shim jumped out, then it would rattle louder at idle. Also it would tend to be loudest when cold. 1993 onwards engines are bucket over shim, in which case the shim can't jump out.

If it's a knackered cam bearing (and it sounds like it might be), then I think you will have to replace the cylinder head. In which case, a complete 2nd hand engine might be cheaper. Having said that, it does seem odd that it suddenly appeared from nowhere.

Posted

Looked at prices and you can get a 60k mile n/a engine for £300.. prob better to just buy that rather than messing with my high milage engine.

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