Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


  • Join Toyota Owners Club

    Join Europe's Largest Toyota Community! It's FREE!

     

     

Need Your Advice And Input.


Calisto
 Share

Recommended Posts

OK gang.... please dont shout at me but I have been using normal petrol for KITT since I bought her. <_<

Now she is looking good and the engine is running sweet so I thougt I should start using Optimax. :thumbsup:

Can I just fill her up with it,will it be safe or do I have to flush out the other petrol first????lol dont know if you can flush out petrol but hey ho. :shutit:

Or do I have to pray to the Celica Gods for forgivness and then fill her up. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes flush all that nasty, dirty unleaded 95 RON put of there with....OPTIMAX...... :thumbsup:

Just pile it in and over the weeks it will flush all the rest through the system until your engine purrs like a kitty (scuse the pun) and smells like roses........ :thumbsup::lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK  gang.... please dont shout at me but I have been using normal petrol for KITT since I bought her.  <_<

Now she is looking good and the engine is running sweet  so I thougt I should start using Optimax. :thumbsup:

Can I just fill her up with it,will it be safe  or  do I have to flush out the other petrol first????lol dont know if you can flush out petrol but hey ho. :!Removed!:

Or do I have to pray to the Celica Gods for forgivness and then fill her up. :D

Just top up with optimax and drive. If you feel really brave you can reset the ECU. But you`ll notice the difference almost straight away. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that Dak you have put my mind at rest. :D Do you think it advisable to reset the ECU?? I would have to take it into my garage and they would do it. NO CHARGE HURRAH

Opps almost forgot to say thanks to you as well Gordy :o :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that Dak you have put my mind at rest.  :D Do you think it advisable to reset the ECU?? I would have to take it into my garage and they would do it. NO CHARGE HURRAH

Opps almost forgot to say thanks to you as well Gordy :o  :thumbsup:

OK. Goin to get technical now. Are you sittin comfy? Then i`ll begin.

The ECU will pick up via the various sensors (and black magic that goes on under the bonne) That the engine characteristics have changed and will adjust accordingly. If you reset it, it will start off in default mode and any changes will occur over a few minutes as your driving round. Typically when i`ve reset mine it`s run like a bag of nails for maybe half a minute then starts behaving as it should. Thats my understanding of it anyway. I`m sure someone who lives and breathes ECUs and such stuff can give a much better explanation. :D :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites


wouldn't it be best to fill the tank 3 or 4 times with Optimax to flush at the old fuel? Then reset the ECU when it's running on the good stuff? Otherwise the ECU will train itself to run on a mix of unleaded and optimax.

Asha - should be simple to reset the ECU yourself, just pull a fuse out, then stick it back in - dak or maleborn should be able to tell you which fuse to pull :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wouldn't it be best to fill the tank 3 or 4 times with Optimax to flush at the old fuel? Then reset the ECU when it's running on the good stuff? Otherwise the ECU will train itself to run on a mix of unleaded and optimax.

Asha - should be simple to reset the ECU yourself, just pull a fuse out, then stick it back in - dak or maleborn should be able to tell you which fuse to pull :thumbsup:

okies I will wait for the boys to return :group-cuddles:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should reset the ECU but as sotal says, let it run through a couple of times before doing it.

The knock sensor will probalby have been triggered a few times as your running on fuel with a RON value too low for your car and caused the ECU to !Removed! the ignition slightly to protect the engine. This will loose you precious BHP! Resetting the ECU will fix this and have your engine running back at as close to full power as it can on optimax (which is still lower RON than jap stuff, 97.5 as apposed to 100+)

Just pull out the ECU fuse or disconnect the Battery for a couple of minutes. The car will run a bit rough to start with and probably stall at tickover as the ECU maps itself to your engine again. I've heard of this taking 30 mins or as little as 1 or 2.

Hope this helps

Andrew

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know for sure if the JDM and UK gen 5s have different ignition maps? I think the compression ratio and power figures quoted are the same, which would imply that they are identical. Therefore, using higher octane fuel might be a waste of time. I know the JDM turbo cars (GT4s), are intended to run on 100 RON fuel, but I don't know if it's the same for the ST182/3. Not all petrol in Japan is 100 RON, its like their equivalent of Optimax.

I might be wrong, and it's probably worth a try anyway. Don't worry about flushing through the old petrol. Just run the tank down until the light comes on. You will be down to the last gallon, so it's hardly going to affect a tankfull of super unleaded. Run half a tank of super unleaded through it before resetting the ECU (if you decide to).

On the subject of fuels, I have heard mixed reports of Optimax. Most people agree that it goes 'stale' if you don't use it within a week of filling up. Also, Optimax doesn't have a quoted RON, they merely say 'up to 98 RON', so it could vary between 98 and 96 RON. BP Ultimate is supposed to be just as good, with a guaranteed 97 RON, or just use any old super unleaded.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wouldn't it be best to fill the tank 3 or 4 times with Optimax to flush at the old fuel? Then reset the ECU when it's running on the good stuff? Otherwise the ECU will train itself to run on a mix of unleaded and optimax.

Asha - should be simple to reset the ECU yourself, just pull a fuse out, then stick it back in - dak or maleborn should be able to tell you which fuse to pull :thumbsup:

I`m assuming it`s the same on the 182/3 ......Under bonnet fusebox. Whip the lid off and it`s the fuse marked efi. Blue 15 amp. Take it out for about half a minute then simply pop it back in and hey presto. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dont forget to press the brake asha to rid the system of any remaining 12 volt power . i feed mine on octane plus now and again as recommended by mr.sterling moss £4-99 treats 50 litres.and by it shifts. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

u wont see any instant gains. like everyone says wait for ur ecu to adjust

also DONT use any supermarket petrol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as cookci said " dont use supermarket petrol" this is correct. it is lower ron,slightly lower than the big boys stuff. Anyway,dont worry about re-setting your ecu. Just fill it up with 97/98 ron fuel(super) and your ecu will work out what is going on without any problems at all. Reseting the ecu forces it to go through a range of tests. Not that it will do any harm as such but could end up with your car running like a bag of crap for 45 mins! The only time you should reset your ecu is when you have a fault bringing up codes! You reset it when you think you have fixed problem and if you have.... well there will be know codes on the ecu, hence fixed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dont forget to press the brake asha to rid the system of any remaining 12 volt power . i feed mine on octane plus now and again as recommended by mr.sterling moss £4-99 treats 50 litres.and by it shifts. :lol:

What is octain plus???

Link to comment
Share on other sites


as cookci said " dont use supermarket petrol" this is correct. it is lower ron,slightly lower than the big boys stuff. Anyway,dont worry about re-setting your ecu. Just fill it up with 97/98 ron fuel(super) and your ecu will work out what is going on without any problems at all. Reseting the ecu forces it to go through a range of tests. Not that it will do any harm as such but could end up with your car running like a bag of crap for 45 mins! The only time you should reset your ecu is when you have a fault bringing up codes! You reset it when you think you have fixed problem and if you have.... well there will be know codes on the ecu, hence fixed.

Can anyone say if this is true? I have only read on here about reseting the ECU.

i guess the main question is:

When the knock sensor causes the engine to !Removed! a little, does it ever go back by itself?? Or will it stay retarded until the ECU is reset.

I thought it was the latter which would indicate that you should pull the fuse???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as cookci said " dont use supermarket petrol" this is correct. it is lower ron,slightly lower than the big boys stuff. Anyway,dont worry about re-setting your ecu. Just fill it up with 97/98 ron fuel(super) and your ecu will work out what is going on without any problems at all. Reseting the ecu forces it to go through a range of tests. Not that it will do any harm as such but could end up with your car running like a bag of crap for 45 mins! The only time you should reset your ecu is when you have a fault bringing up codes! You reset it when you think you have fixed problem and if you have.... well there will be know codes on the ecu, hence fixed.

Can anyone say if this is true? I have only read on here about reseting the ECU.

i guess the main question is:

When the knock sensor causes the engine to !Removed! a little, does it ever go back by itself?? Or will it stay retarded until the ECU is reset.

I thought it was the latter which would indicate that you should pull the fuse???

As far as i`m aware the ECU is constantly monitoring and would advance and !Removed! as necessary. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the way it works (on older cars at least) is that the ignition map is programmed for a specific fuel/RON. If knock is detected it will !Removed! the ignition until it is prevented. It will never advance the ignition beyond the original map, so if your car is programmed for 95 RON, running 97/98 RON petrol won't achieve anything. The JDM gen 5 is rated at 162 bhp, rather than the UK's 158. As the compression ratio is the same, then the ignition map for the JDM must be advanced for higher octane fuel (maybe 98, maybe 100 RON).

I suspect that if the ECU retards the ignition due to knock, then it won't advance it back up until the engine has been restarted. It may take an ECU reset, but that would seem a bit OTT.

Supermarket fuel is just as good as branded stuff. Super unleaded is rated as 97 RON, doesn't matter if you bought it from a branded petrol station or a supermarket one. Where do you think the supermarket's buy their petrol? From the oil companies of course, they just pick the cheapest one on the day. Sure, you can't buy optimax from a supermarket station, but as I already said, the octane rating of optimax is dubious. If you buy super unleaded you a sure to get 97 RON where ever you buy it, and you are probably getting the same quality fuel as optimax. I have heard good reports of BP ultimate (97 RON).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Latest Deals

Toyota Official Store for genuine Toyota parts & accessories

Disclaimer: As the club is an eBay Partner, The club may be compensated if you make a purchase via eBay links

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share






×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership


  • Insurance
  • Support