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Vsv Valve


podgey
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hi, iv had a problem with my turbo being stuck in limp mode for a while, and wasnt getting anywhere trying to fix it, as it could have been a number of things causing it. i read on the imoc forum that if i clamped the hose coming from the turbo to the actuator, and carefully took it for a spin (un-controlled boost), he said if the boost went above 7 psi it was the V.S.V.

If it didnt reach 7 psi it was other things like actuator, or knackered turbo..

so i did this and the boost was fine went well past .5 bar, i didnt take it too far incase i knacked it.. even though it was tempting as i loved it and had a massive smile on my face! :D

so its defo the V.S.V ??

would you guys agree with this? just wanted a second opinion, iv checked it and it doesnt look like ist disconected, so should i buy a new one?

any thoughts welcome as i dont know much about this stuff....

thanks!

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The VSV is like a stock bleed valve !!

you actuator is controlling your boost, when a certain level of boost is reached, the actuator opens the wastegate to bypass some exhaust gas, and bring the boost down, then it will close when its back within boost limits, and open - really quickly to keep the boost at the correct level.

now the VSV bleeds a bit of the boost pressure away from the actuator - basically tricking it into thinking there is less bost, so the actuator stays shut longer (so does the waste gate), and the boost is allowed to increse a bit more.

Now if you got your self a bleed valve, or a G valve - you can bleed away more of this boost (G-Valve prevents boost reaching the actuator - but lets not confuse the matter yet !!) tricking the actuator more - so you can run m even more boost !!! (if this is done the VSV is totaly disabled and all the bleeding will be done by the valve)

now if you actuator was knakered the boost would simply push the wastegate open, reducing your boost. !!

the test you have been asked to do does prove it seams to be the vsv that is playing up.

I would scrap the VSV (Disconnect ot), and get a G-valve / boost controller ! then you can run all the boost you like (within reason)

but there must be a reason that the vsv is staying shut (if its not knakered) - it will stay shut when engine is not up to temp etc, so make sure thats all ok before you deck it !!

HTH

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ahh.. my plan was to get it working properly, then get a G valve, do you reckon i could do any damage if i just got one and turned it up a bit, with out finding out why the vsv is staying shut? as this would be much easier and cheaper!!

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Yeah.

When you add a G-Valve between the Turbo and Actuator you need to disconnect the vsv, and block the extra turbe from the actuator (which did goto the vsv.

then jsut use the G-Valve to set boost.

On a REV 2 id set it to 1 bar - that will be pleanty of boost for ya, and will be safe for the car as well.

sod the vsv, you aint gonna use it soon !!!

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i'm having the same problem, i think i'll do this test as well. which pipe do i need to clamp?

i'm gona need it in detail as i'm not really sure what's what!! :blink:

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dunno what Podgy sent ya, but if you look at your turbo, you will see a feed.

turbo - feed - actuator - feed - vsv

clamp the turbo to actuator feed ! but dont hammer it as boost might run REALLY high !!!

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same as what i sent! hope it works for you matey..

is the pipe i clamped the same pipe i fit the g valve to? and when its fitted do i just disconnect, and block up the other pipe on the actuator going to the vsv?

cant wait to do it!

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ok just tried it and took it for a spin. i'm gettin more boost on my standard guage now it's about 8-9 dashes up. but i'm still not gettin the acceleration that i should be. :angry:

any suggestions?

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are you sure you completely nipped it mate. if you did then it could be a few things.. i dont know much about it, but im sure some one will help.. :(

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is it possible to buy a new actuator? if i completely blocked it should it be going to the top of my standard boost gauge?

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