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Posted

Hi folks

Newbie here, so a little about me before I get stuck in...

I have a 2dr corolla colour collection (Black), only 9 months old, and just under 4K on the clock.

I have just bought (Trade in of Corolla) an 05 Rav4 D4D with the option pack... Chrome and Leather collection, rear park sensors, and tinted windows.

Delivered on the 4th April... or there abouts, knowing car dealers.

Just contacted Sparkydog regarding the read door stay, and will be ordering within the next couple days. (Tempted with the dimmable rear view mirror... )

I seen in one post that removal of door trim is a bit hard work/time consuming/fiddly, so may need additional info on this from those that has done this? Do you use a sorta fork device to prise the panel/trim apart?

I remember taking a door panel off my previous car by hand, to replace Speakers, and bust several of those pegs from the hardboard backing, and had to do a major repair to keep the trim from flapping about whenever the door was opened, it never really worked properly, so I dont want a repeat of that!

I did take my time, but those pegs are just so damn stiff to pull out of the holes, and/or the hardboard is too soft to allow prising.

I have been trawling through the posts here, and I seen that two members (Wish I could remember where those posts were) had some mods done to their Rav4.. sparkydog recons it was AMH fitted the washer units and PETE XT4D - 4D fitted the LED's.

Can either of these two members get back to me at all?

Seeing as I will be fitting the door stay, I would really appreciate PETE XT4D - 4D getting in touch with info on these LED's, or anyone for that matter that can help out with this one.

As for the triple fan washer units... any comments on these from members that has fitted them?

TVMIA.

.


Posted

Hiya - at work at the mo so will reply in full later to any queries.

So far I have done:

Origin b2 (custom install from previous car)

Triple washers (Toyota parts)

Door stay mod (Sparkydog)

Sound proofing (Dynamat)

Seat raising (leading edge)

Tweeter Speakers (Toyota parts)

Upgraded headlight bulbs (Philips +50%)

K&N air filter

Rear shelf anti-rattle mod (felt loops !)

Rear wheel cover (17" TTE wheels - from Cutlers)

Just considering the dimmable mirror - Sparkydog again.

Also want to do the rear door LED mod if the info becomes available, alarm options and still looking into Sat Nav options (Tom Tom / Navman / Toyota).

Andy.

Posted
Hiya - at work at the mo so will reply in full later to any queries.

So far I have done:

Origin b2 (custom install from previous car)

Triple washers (Toyota parts)

Door stay mod (Sparkydog)

Sound proofing (Dynamat)

Seat raising (leading edge)

Tweeter speakers (Toyota parts)

Upgraded headlight bulbs (Philips +50%)

K&N air filter

Rear shelf anti-rattle mod (felt loops !)

Rear wheel cover (17" TTE wheels - from Cutlers)

Just considering the dimmable mirror - Sparkydog again.

Also want to do the rear door LED mod if the info becomes available, alarm options and still looking into Sat Nav options (Tom Tom / Navman / Toyota).

Andy.

Cheers Andy

I'll swing by here again tonight.

I contacted PETE XT4D - 4D by PM here last night, so hope he gets the message and posts back. Saves a heck of a lot of time if there is a tried and tested step guide... :^)

Failing that, I will have a look in Maplins and Halfords at the weekend to suss out what LED's they have that are suitable. (Ultra slim?)

It seems a straight forward mod - Possibly Drilling a few housing holes and hooking up to the 'boot light' so will have a go when I take delivery, if I hear nothing back.

I'm a self employed Joiner to trade, and a third year Open University post graduate student, studying a Bsc in IT and computing.

I build/repair PC's from scratch, build websites/ develop software programming, so fitting an LED light kit should be a breeze!

I'll no doubt have to do both mods at the same time whilst the trim is removed... No problem :^)

'K&N air filter'

What does this give you in return?

Seat raising (leading edge)

What does this involve?

Upgraded headlight bulbs (Philips +50%)

How good?

Triple washers (Toyota parts)

So these are from Toyota only then?

How good is their performance?

Do you have a piccy?

What additional parts are required - I seem to remember a post here (Could have been yours) stating extra tubing/connectors?

I've just had a call from the dealer... Rav4 is here, but they said to pick it up Tuesday when everything fitted, tax, ect.

I need to inform my insurance anyway with Reg No, so that suits me fine.

It just better not rattle from the dash, or I will seriusly be thinking of taking it right back, and going for the Freelander!!!! :^)

I'll also need to get back to sparkydog and order up the stay, and if I hear nothing back about the LED Kit, I'll just go ahead with whatever I see that suits!

I also noticed someone here has a webpage about the Door stay, but I'm unable to see the pictures... I'll check again using my laptop as I think my Firewall/AV on the PC may be preventing viewing?

I'll do the decent thing, and post pictures here in the Garage section, rather than on another webpage... Why didnt that guy just post the stuff on here instead of his own website?

Posted

Sorry all,

I'm in the middle of putting pics and words together for the LED Mod, i'll post it soonist....

No great secrets here, Bought Led's on e-bay They are actually listed as Number plate LED bolts. Got them for 1p +P&P. They come mounted in a chrome bolt so it's just a case of deciding where to put them, drilling a couple of small holes, wiring them in sequence and then tracking the wires to your rear interior light.

As i say i'll post the pics as soon as i get them back.

Pete

:rolleyes:

Posted

Sorry for not replying last night - wife hogged the 'puter - will do proper reply this evening ...


Posted

OK - here goes:

K&N - replacement panel filter - improves throttle response and pick up at higher speeds - not as noticable on this RAV as it was on my 97 one or my Lexus but then I have not given this one much stick yet.

Seat Raised - two larger / thick washers under each of the seat runner front bolt - improves under thigh support for my long legs.

Headlamps - big difference - have done this to all my cars since my 87 XR2 and must say these do make a big change (either that or my eyes are getting bad !!).

Triple washers - as it says - popular Lexus mod - couldn't resist repeating it on the RAV - just means you get a better spread of screen wash than given by 2 jets - another option would be the fan-spray washers - also Lexus part and same fitment - only mod required was 12" of plastic tubing as the connector is 90 deg. different.

Biggest change by far is the sound proofing - almost got it as quiet as my Lexus now on A and B roads - not been on motorway yet but expecting that to be much improved too.

If pics are needed I will try and sort over the weekend - just ask ...

Andy.

Posted
OK - here goes:

K&N - replacement panel filter - improves throttle response and pick up at higher speeds - not as noticable on this RAV as it was on my 97 one or my Lexus but then I have not given this one much stick yet.

Seat Raised - two larger / thick washers under each of the seat runner front bolt - improves under thigh support for my long legs.

Headlamps - big difference - have done this to all my cars since my 87 XR2 and must say these do make a big change (either that or my eyes are getting bad !!).

Triple washers - as it says - popular Lexus mod - couldn't resist repeating it on the RAV - just means you get a better spread of screen wash than given by 2 jets - another option would be the fan-spray washers - also Lexus part and same fitment - only mod required was 12" of plastic tubing as the connector is 90 deg. different.

Biggest change by far is the sound proofing - almost got it as quiet as my Lexus now on A and B roads - not been on motorway yet but expecting that to be much improved too.

If pics are needed I will try and sort over the weekend - just ask ...

Andy.

Cheers Andy - Pete XT4 D-4D

Yea, pic of washers, and where to buy them - Price ? and more info on these lights would be great.

Are these bulbs readily available in any auto shop, or dealer only? Part No ?

Well, after a long search today, I found the perfect LED lights that will do the job just nicely, at Maplins!

The LED's are - CK48, and priced at 29P each. (Flashing/repeating, are 79p each)

The casings are - UK14, and priced at 19p each.

I'm going to wait until Tuesday when I pick up the Rav, so I can see the clearance between the door, and frame, before commiting to these lights, as they need at the very most - 4mm clearance. But I have a feeling that they will fit just nicely. :^)

It will be a very simple case of drilling several holes, approx 8mm (How many depends on how much LED's I want to add... mayby 6 in total? )

and clipping - (push fit type - similar to indicator/repeater fittings) the LED housing into the drilled holes, this leaves the housing about 3mm proud of the surface, which cannot fall through because it has a small curved 'lip' that prevents that, and pulling through the cable, attaching the cable (which is wired up to the interior light) to the LED's, slipping the LED into the housing - Job done!

To give an idea of the size/Dia of these would be to look at the end of a pen... Very neat and small.

Hey, why not try their website to see them?

The Dia of the housing casing is approx 8mm, and the top curved 'lip' would be about 10mm - Length would be approx 15-20mm.

The Dia of the LED is about 5mm X 8mm.

The guy recons that these LED's are good for just over a thousand hours, but I doubt if that could be achieved in a short time, seeing as it's only working/on when the door is ajar!

Replacing these LED's would be a simple case of 'Prising' them from the casing, and re-fitting new ones... Simple!

All going well with the clearance, I would say that these are the ones to go for, and I will be going for the flashing LED's that will afford the most attention to drivers that are passing when the rear door is opened fully... Who knows, I may even stick a couple flashers into each of the other doors ... Now that would be nice, eh?

I will be getting stuck right into this Mod next week, and will upload pictures for you guys as soon as I finish.

I better get hold of Sparkydog, and a cheque (I only do Plastic) and get this door stay delivered... Damn Bank holidays, postal deliveries will be a few days later.

Johnny.

Posted

post-18609-1111762939_thumb.jpgOK so here goes, This is the way i carried out the Led Fit.

1. I removed the inner panel, This has been covered else where so i won't drag on. Needless to say take great care when you do this.....

2. I marked out were i wanted the LED's to go (use masking tape as the drill won't slip).

3. Holes drilled to needed size.

4. Fit required LED's, I used a pack from Halfords £4.99 for four and a packet of rubber gromets about £1.00.

5. Next pick a LED as your No.1, use its ( + ) lead as the main feed, It's ( - ) should then be connected to the ( + ) of the next LED and so on forming a chain ( + to - ). This should leave you at the end with a negative lead which becomes your earth. Each joint was soildered and insulated.

6. Next Attach a pair of wires to your remaining two ends one positve one negative, Secure these in the door and then trace the wires through the boot wire loom casing.

7. Next remove the weather seal around the boot opening and tuck your wires in here ( take care not to get the sealent on your trim it's a bugger to get off). Pop your rear boot light unit out, lens cover is a clip on and two screws hold the light in.

Solider your two wires on each end of the bulb holder(positive to switch end), there's a convenient hole each side.

8. Put the car back together and job done. About two hours work......

Posted
post-18609-1111762939_thumb.jpgOK so here goes, This is the way i carried out the Led Fit.

1.  I removed the inner panel, This has been covered else where so i won't drag on. Needless to say take great care when you do this.....

2.  I marked out were i wanted the LED's to go (use masking tape as the drill won't slip).

3.  Holes drilled to needed size.

4.  Fit required LED's, I used a pack from Halfords £4.99 for four and a packet of rubber gromets about £1.00.

5.  Next pick a LED as your No.1, use its ( + ) lead as the main feed, It's ( - ) should then be connected to the ( + ) of the next LED and so on forming a chain ( + to - ). This should leave you at the end with a negative lead which becomes your earth. Each joint was soildered and insulated.

6.  Next Attach a pair of wires to your remaining two ends one positve one negative, Secure these in the door and then trace the wires through the boot wire loom casing.

7.  Next remove the weather seal around the boot opening and tuck your wires in here ( take care not to get the sealent on your trim it's a bugger to get off). Pop your rear boot light unit out, lens cover is a clip on and two screws hold the light in.

Solider your two wires on each end of the bulb holder(positive to switch end), there's a convenient hole each side.

8.  Put the car back together and job done. About two hours work......

Thanks for the rundown and pictures Pete. Much appreciated.

One thing that confused me here though... Connecting the + to a - to make the loop?

I would have thought that the main cable (two core + - ) would be connected as follows, and what I was intending to do with my LED's....

(Assuming that the cable is already connected to the boot light)

+ cable to + LED1, loop to + LED2, loop to + LED3, loop to + LED4.

- cable to - LED1, loop to - LED2, loop to - LED3, loop to - LED4.

I'm no sparky, so please feel free to correct me on this before I go and blow the fuse box... :^)

I would have thought by your method, you would effectively be connecting a + to a -, which would, in normal electric circuits, blow the fuse?

But like I say, I am no sparky, and the workings of LED's may well only work in this loop method?

btw... What is the picture below # 1? You have cable running from that rear chrome pipe....

Johnny.

Posted

Johnny,

Yes your way will work, It's basic electrics, If you consider the LED as a standard blub, they can be wired In parallel or series. Either will work. Just found the way i did it to be a little eaiser.

Have included a wiring diagram hope it helps.

Oh the picture i missed out was just an illustation of the led i used. Just laid it on the rear bar to take photo.....

Pete

post-18609-1111785891_thumb.jpg

Posted

Cheers for clearing that up Pete; Makes perfect sense now that I see that diagram.

Nice 1. ;^)

Not wanting to sound nosey, but you seem to know electrics, and I'm impressed with your diagram btw :^) Are you a sparky?

Reason I'm asking is...

I am fitting a Multi-Changer into the new Rav on Tuesday, which only has a single CD Unit.

I took it out of my last car, before the Corolla, but in my haste, I pulled the connector block, from behind the single CD unit in the dash, without thinking of looking at what else was attached to the connector block, as I thought that the connector block would be all that is connected to the back of the dash CD unit, from the Multi-Changer under the seat.

I found that I had one single long Orange wire coming from that connector, (all the other wires are where they should be within the block) and I presume that this longer Orange wire, fitted into some other block, somewhere behind the dash, and was pulled free when I pulled out the connector block?

Do you know what this wire should be connected to, and where I should place it?

TVMIA

Johnny.

Posted

Sorry johnny,

Hate to burst you bubble, i'm not a sparky. I'm an aircraft engineer and i've toched on electrics.

As for your cd changer dilema, not sure, the orange wire, is it part of the changer loom?

I know some units have a constant feed of power, could be this?

Posted

Part of the Loom....? Well, yes and no.

The orange wire is only between the two connectors - Male and Female.

One connector (male) fitted into my old CD unit, and the other (female) was redundant.

The orange wire between the two connectors has this second, longer orange wire, approx 12 " long, spurring off it.

Today, (seeing as the Corolla goes back as trade in for the Rav on Tuesday) I whipped off the dash, unscrewed the head unit, and fitted the multi-changer into the back of the single dash unit/head unit, and it fitted/worked okay.

But I'm positive that this Orange wire has some important function, or why else is it spurred off of the connector ?

There is another two wires that only connect between these two connectors... Black and Pink! The Black one is connected between the two, with a single connecting block.

I have looked all around here to see how I can include a picture from desktop into this post, but am unable to see this option?

It would be clearer if you guys could actually see what I am on about here.

Can anyone direct me as to how I can include, as an attachment, a picture from my desktop here?

Johnny,

Posted

john,

On the bottom of the reply to post page, where you type your messages, you will see a block called FILE ATTACHMENTS, click on Browse and locate your picture on you comp, a choose file box will open, highlight your pic then click open. This will put the link in the box next to the Browse buuton. Next click ADD THIS ATTACHMAENT. JOB DONE.

Pete


Posted

john,

Just checked you won't be able to upload pictures, you need to have at least a bronze membership.................

Join up mate it's worth it just for the discounts gold members get........

Posted
Johnny,

Yes your way will work, It's basic electrics, If you consider the LED as a standard blub, they can be wired In parallel or series. Either will work. Just found the way i did it to be a little eaiser.

Pete

The only problem with a +ve to -ve to +ve to -ve type approach is that if one bulb blows, all will go out as the circuit will have been broken. Connecting all the +ve's and all the -ve's together means that only the failed bulb will fail to light.

Posted
Johnny,

Yes your way will work, It's basic electrics, If you consider the LED as a standard blub, they can be wired In parallel or series. Either will work. Just found the way i did it to be a little eaiser.

Pete

The only problem with a +ve to -ve to +ve to -ve type approach is that if one bulb blows, all will go out as the circuit will have been broken. Connecting all the +ve's and all the -ve's together means that only the failed bulb will fail to light.

I had a christmas tree like that .... Darn pesky business of checking each and every bulb before I found the blown one :^)

Anyway... Got the Rav now, so am still on cloud nine.

Only one glitch that I was a bit P'd about for about an hour, and that was when the guy phoned on Thursday to tell me the reg No so that I could get in touch with my insurers to send them a cover note by tuesday ( Remeber it was a long Easter weekend)

So off I goes on Thursday afternoon to buy a set of carbon No plates like I always do with every car I buy (I dont like the plain ones they give you on the car, and I dont like the dealers name plastered all over the plate, and getting free advertising on my plate)

£30 later, I await delivery on Tuesday afternoon so I can put them on straight away!

Tuesday, late morning, I get a call from another salesman who has just opened the letter/insurance covernote.... The reg No that I was given originaly, had one digit wrong, so could I phone my insurance company to get them to Fax through a corrected version?

Aaaaarrrrrggggggghhhhhhhh! I just spent £30 on plates that are wrong!

Gets over there in the afternoon to pick it up, laughingly tells the guy what I done about buying the new plates, and he said that seeing as it was their fault, I could have a set of mud flaps free, as compensation!

I take my Hat off to them, they did not have to.

Me buying the plates was not their fault whatsoever, and I really did not have a case to argue about, I still got my car on time, albeit a slight glitch with one digit... no great deal really, so good on the dealers for making this gesture.

Now, that wire business on my multi-changer loom, It turns out that its an illumination wire! Its used to illuminate the head unit (if not already illuminated)

Seeing as my head unit is already illuminated, I have no need for it.

Taking the dash apart, and removal of dash head-unit was a lot simpler on the Rav as it was on the Corolla! 20 minutes easier!

Thanks to sparkydog, I took delivery of the door stay Tuesday morning!

I am fitting that tomorrow, along with the LED lights from Maplins.

5m 2 core cable - 6 x 8mm flashing Red LED's - 6 x gromets = Just under £6.

Just don't expect these guys from Maplins to be helpfull!

With quite a vast range, I asked if these particular type of LED's I chose, would be suitable working off a car battery/rear light switch....

"We at maplins only sell the equipment - It is up to the customer to seek out information regarding compatability"

But can't you just tell me if I will blow these, and/or need another type because these might not be powerful enough?

"Like I just said sir, we at maplins..........."

Yea, okay! I get the message! Can you tell me where, amongs all this stuff, you stock the appropriate 2 core wire that i'll need?

"Over there in the back... audio equipment... there's about 20 racks of all different cables... Just pick what you think you need from that lot"

Hey, thanks for being so helpfull, hope you get 'Employee of the month'!

Sheeesh! What does it cost for a little bit of customer help these days?

Johnny.

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