Tuning Rev 3 Tubby

[fermit007]

me again

should be picking up a standard rev 3 tubby in the next couple of weeks

would like to have it tuned to put out 300 bhp

where is the best place to take it and how much are we lookin at?

many many thanks

grovel grovel

steve

[EmR2T]

All the info you need is here:

http://www.mrcontrols.com/primers/power.htm

As for cost - very very roughly:

Exhaust - £300

Decat/Downpipe - £200

Induction Kit - £150

BOV - £150

Manual Boost Control - £20

Fuel Cut Defender - £20

Spark Plugs - £50

Then you can also go unichip/piggyback ecu route etc... for around £300-500

Then fitting if you are not doing it all yourself - be looking at around nearer a grand than five hundred. That is assuming you are getting a standard car though.

The above should be good for near enough 300bhp on a rev 3 - but you may want to consider a better intercooler as well.

[KiwiMR2]

You make it sound like there's more to it than needed :P

Exhaust - £300

Decat/Downpipe - £200

Lets just say FULL exhaust £500 ;)

Induction Kit - £150, that's HEAPS.....is that a pod & cold air box setup?? Anyway what ever you choose to do TRY and either put the pod in a box OR sheild it from the engine bay heat....oh and don't shove it right down out the side vent as although you get plenty of air you get plenty of dust/dirt and crap and end up cleaning more often.

BOV - £150.......ONLY necessery if you want an aftermarket one for SOUND, the OEM one is IDEAL and would suffice (assuming it isn't falling to bits or broken, and it shouldn't be) to past 300hp no problem. I'd opt for a nice loud sounding one though...more fun

Manual Boost Control - £20......I'd spend more here an go for a dual stage ebc, IMO better for the car & daily driving as you can have normal everyday boost and a high setting at the push of a button for those moments your up for a kill ;) I found the manual boost controllers to suffer from boost spikes on cold nights.

Fuel Cut Defender - £20.......again IMO not nessecery, a rev III has a fuel cut of around 18.? psi.....about as high as I'd be happy running the CT20b to, thats a safe limit imo if you want to keep your turbo for a decent period of time. On cold nights though IF you had a fcd 20-22 odd psi would be fine in bursts.

Spark Plugs - £50........go a step further and replace all the ignition parts....fresh leads, dizzy etc. etc. makes a WORLD of difference on new/fresh igniton parts, DEFINITLY noticable on MR2's :)

Then you can also go unichip/piggyback ecu route etc... for around £300-500

Indeed the Unichip is the BEST piggyback option in the UK and on the above mods you should see an easy 300hp, MAYBE a tad over if the engine is nice and healty. However I'd way up where you want the car to be long term....IF the 300hp mark is probably going to keep you happy then charge on...IF you plan on going further and/or have plenty of cash I'd say power fc. even in standard trim a properly tuned power fc will see upto 20-30hp more on the stock setup...with mods plenty more. As EmR2T mentions an intercooler is also a great idea....the oem one isn't the greatest & a decent aftermarket one like Greedy or Spearco makes for more consistant hard running with more efficient cooling :)

Enjoy!!

Cheers

KiwiMR2

[fermit007]

thanks a lot chappies

had someone tryin to make me turn to the darkside and buy a gt4

it was a damned nice car but it aint an mr2 :D

anyhoo thanks for the help guys

steve