Which Is The Correct Oil Grade

[Coyote!]

Well, adding to the noisy drive train, I have replaced the gearbox oil, and since then the 2nd gear doesnt enter downshifting from 3rd. It only enters at 20 KM/h (sort of 12 mph). But after 35 mins of constant driving, it starts to work better, but its still a piece of junk! :ffs:

The synchronizer idea crossed my mind, can someone tell me how it works? To dismiss the idea or not?

I tried the following:

80 90 oil

greased the commands from Stick to gearbox

adjusted the clutch pedal, just wondering it might be the clutch

pressed the clutch pedal serveral times to check if its matter of fluid preasure

rev it,

idle it,

But it still gets stuck between 3rd going to 2nd :ffs:

HeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllPPPPP

Please... any ideas?

The questions are:

80-90 Oil is the correct?

Could this have affected the syncronizer?

How much oil? 2 1/2 liters?

Thanks in advance!!!!

Coyote from BA

Argentina

[cal]

Hi,

Yes, the gear oil affects the change a lot. Try using 75W90 oils as I found 80W90 a bit too thick.

As for the syncro, the problem you are experiencing could be the worn sycro and the only way is to overhaul the gearbox. But there is a way around it to pro-long the life before it gets really bad. Use double de-clutch technique when shifting to 2nd.

[Coyote!]

Thanks for the info!

Why is it that before the oil change, I didnt realize about the syncro problem? Is it for the heavier oil?

I'll try with 75-90, but I tried the double de-clutch technique and didn't work.

Thanks again!

Cheers

Coyote from BA

Argentina

[cal]

Well, basically thicker oil tends to make the shifting difficult when cold. Obviously, some car are more so than the others.

Try 75W90, and if that doesn't work with double de-clutch, before overhauling the gearbox, try the last resort. That is to put ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) instead of gearoil. Now, you might think 'What???!!!' ATF on a manual gearbox? but yes you heard it right, ATF. ATF is designed to withstand heat yet maintaining the lubrication ability plus the viscousty is not that high which can be used and in some cases specified by the manufacturer. Engineers of Honda seems to know a lot about the relations between gearoil thickness and ease of gear changes as some models they specify engine oil instead of gearoil in their gearboxes.

[Coyote!]

Wow...

this weekend I arranged to change the oil again, because its reaally bad how it's working now. Also the user manual says 75-90 (why didnt I read it before???? )

Thanks a lot for the info!

Cheers

Coyote from BA

Argentina

PD: Next sat I'll post what happened...

[cal]

You might need an overhaul but hope you are able to pro-long the life of the box for few more thousands of km.

[Coyote!]

Well, seems to be that the 75w90 oil fixed the problem.

Thanks for the replys

Cheers

Coyote from BA

Argentina

Why is so sensitive to a different oil grade, Does it happen the same with the engine oil?

What do you recomend to a 2CT engine?

[cal]

Hello Coyote,

Well done for sorting the problem. At least it is not that serious as initially thought. The reason for being so sensitive is that syncro is like adjusting speed of gears spinning within the gearbox to obtaining easier change and the oil will affect this spinning speed and can sometime result in difficulties in engaging certain gears. Now, the characteristics of oil is generally, thicker when cold and thinner when hot so wrong choice of oil can cause symptoms depending on temperature.

Not so much sensitive as regards to engine oil as far as 2C-T is concerned. However, other engines, likes of one with hydro-tappets will have problems by chosing wrong kind of engine oil. But the good ole 2C is fairy simple so it should not pose much difference. But choosing an engine oil depends on how you drive, climate (temperature), typical use (i.e. city, motorway, also whether you tow a caravan etc.). Of course, you can stick to what it says on the manual but you can change accordingly with your usage.

For instance, my Avensis is a 3S-FE engine using LPG. My usage is 50/50 town and motorway. The manual states 10W30 but since using LPG, I deliberately chose 5W40 fully synthetic and it does burn a bit of oil about 1 litre every 10,000km . If I had used 10W40, it would not have burned much but I need to burn a bit to lubricate the exhaust valve since using LPG, it puts strain to the exhaust valves. Also, the other factor is you got to weight the cost as well as you know some oils are more expensive to buy than the others.

[Coyote!]

Hi Cal,

sounsd like U have a huge experience I will bother you a little bit more :D

I had to do the same with my other cars with LPG, and worked fine.

I usually drive very calm, but sometimes I like to feel my back pressed to the sit. Besides that, 50 town, 50 in highways etc...

Something changed, Im planning to travel this winter to the mountains, to meet the snow. So Im getting ready and my lady too:

wheel chains

thicker coolant to prevent freezzing

I have to change the engine oil

new wippers

clean the polen filter

get the ABS checked (because of the ice)

new beams and spares

tool box (save me the other trip, when some wires got short circuited... :o )

medical aid kit.

charge the batterys of my new digi-cam

So, Im planning the schedule to avoid the snow and ice on the road during the trip and that kind of things

Cheers and thanks

Coyote from BA

Argentina

[cal]

Hello Coyote,

I am probably the same sort of driving style as you are. Most of the time, calm driving but sometime rev it which also keeps the engine healthy.

If you are going on to the mountains, I don't know how cold it will get but, put in a softer engine oil such as 5W or 0W type oil depending on how cold it gets. As for the manufacturer of the oil, I think the good widely available engine oil is Castrol. However, they tend to be on expensive side so I often use Comma which I am not sure whether you can get them in your country.

As for the coolant, 50% concentration should be fine. When changing coolant, dont' just drain and fill the radiator. When you do this, majority of the coolant still remains in the engine and heater matrix. Thus best thing to do is, removed the thermostat however, that poses another problem as you need to get new gaskets etc. So, what I normally do is remove the heater hose, plug oneside and connect a garden hose to the other and flush the entire cooling system. This way, you can be sure all the coolant has been changed. On the last step, flush about 3 litre of distilled water and add coolant.

Other thing is the Battery on your car. If in doubt change it beforehand. Battery hates cold weather.