Engine Light ! U R My Final Hope

[oldskool]

Hi all,

I searched the forum and internet b4 I posted this but no luck

Carina E Uk model 1.6 1995 (4A-FE engine)

How do I get the fault code on this car and a list of code description please ?

Cant find it anywhere, have a feeling its the oxygen sensor but wanna be sure b4 I buy one !

Thanks in advance

[TheNissanMan]

Hi all,

I searched the forum and internet b4 I posted this but no luck

Carina E Uk model 1.6 1995 (4A-FE engine)

How do I get the fault code on this car and a list of code description please ?

Cant find it anywhere, have a feeling its the oxygen sensor but wanna be sure b4 I buy one !

Thanks in advance

Am not sure for the Carina but but try use a paerclip on the blockls marked E1 and TE1 , turn the ignition to on and see what pattern flashes on your dashboard, eg. blink, blink - pause - blink = 21 and post the result here

[oldskool]

Thank's for the speedy response tis appreciatted, will try tomorow and post.....

Cheers :D

[Unity Jon]

go and ask at www.4agze.com and tell them JonUK sent you, specify your engine type, they'll have a response for you almost immediately :)

[cal]

Hello oldskool,

Them fault code thingy is guidance only. The code does not necessarily mean the component it suggest. Especially the O2 sensor fault code, most of the time it is not the O2 sensor which is faulty but other things such as airflow meter or coolant temp sensor which makes the incorrect fuel mixture resulting the O2 sensor to function to become abnormal. It could be the O2 sensor but since that is quite an expensive parts so do other tests to make sure before you replace any components.

Hope it gets sorted soon.

[oldskool]

Hey, thanks all you are a helpfull bunch and will take your comments onboard..cheers Jonuk for the reference..

BTW I know a guy from eBay he can supply any OE, NGK oxygen sensor minus the adaptor for £17 LIKE http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...2417426121&rd=1

Just thought it might be usefull to you guys, his name is George..

Im waiting for pops car to come back so I can see what code it's spitting out, but your right I shouldnt jump to conclusions may not be the sensor (the guy we bought it from said it was and we know him so if it aint I will be popping down his house for a refund on the sensor )

Thanks again guys

[oldskool]

Connected E1-TE worked like a charm :hokus-pokus:

Code 21

Did a little searching and found the code is for the Oxygen sensor from Carina engine code

2 Options now

1) Buy a the Oxygen sensor

2) Air/fuel/temp sensor check and if so who would most garages have the equipment to test ?

Do modernish cars need crypton tuning or does the ECU do all that now ?

Thanks again for all ya help

[cal]

I think what you need to do is first of all, double check the basics. Plugs, leads, distributor, airfilter etc.

Then, test the fuel pressure as well. If that's normal, go on to test the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Most diagnosis type garages should have the necessary equipment to test the above.

There is also a thing called O2 sensor checker so that can test the sensor to an extent. O2 sensor can also be tested using a volt meter connected to the appropriate terminals on the diagnosis socket where you linked the terminals to obtain the code.

You can use the Crypton tuning too as it can give you some clues since it is capable of measuring rpm and other information.

Good luck!

[adi]

What ??? the code is for an 02 sensor and youre telling him to check his leads, plugs, air filter, and TPS? For what purpose? AFM and temp sensors have their own fault codes and your symptoms would be very clear way before the ECU got to a O2 fault.

Oldskool, o2 sensors do go bad after time.. the first thing to do is get a new one. Theyre fairly cheap and if it doesnt work then that is the time to start working your way back down the fault line.

[oldskool]

I think what you need to do is first of all, double check the basics.  Plugs, leads, distributor, airfilter etc.

Then, test the fuel pressure as well. If that's normal, go on to test the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).  Most diagnosis type garages should have the necessary equipment to test the above.

There is also a thing called O2 sensor checker so that can test the sensor to an extent.  O2 sensor can also be tested using a volt meter connected to the appropriate terminals on the diagnosis socket where you linked the terminals to obtain the code.

You can use the Crypton tuning too as it can give you some clues since it is capable of measuring rpm and other information.

Good luck!

Thanks again people,

Will check as you suggested,

Oxygen sensor test ? I have a voltometer but had given up on how to use the dam thing, Do you know where to connect it to on the diagnosis terminals (eg E1 etc) and the selection on the meter ?

I am going to disconnect ther Battery first and that should reset the light and I am assuming it will re-diagnose any faults and bring the dreaded light back on ?

When we got the car the exhaust had gone upto the CAT which we replaced. I have also just tried taking the ECU and EFI fuses out to reset but it didnt work.

My throttle does go stiff sometimes (THE CAR THAT IS :D )but I assume thats a mechanical issue

Thanks guys your input has been most appreciatted

[cal]

What ??? the code is for an 02 sensor and youre telling him to check his leads, plugs, air filter, and TPS? For what purpose? AFM and temp sensors have their own fault codes and your symptoms would be very clear way before the ECU got to a O2 fault.

Oldskool, o2 sensors do go bad after time.. the first thing to do is get a new one. Theyre fairly cheap and if it doesnt work then that is the time to start working your way back down the fault line.

adi,

O2 sensor fault code is often not the O2 sensor itself. It could well be still, but the ECU stores the O2 sensor fault code, when there is an irregulality from the O2 sensor output, say when the mixture is too rich or lean all the time etc. as well as open circuit. The points that I have mentioned above can also influence the mixture. You are right that O2 sensors do go bad after time, but it is not difficult nor costly to double check those areas that I have mentioned before carrying out the actual O2 sensor replacement.

oldskool,

To test the O2 sensor from Diag socket, it will be much easier if you have an analogue voltmeter. The terminals are VF1 and E1. Make sure the engine is fully warmed up.

The ECU can be reset by disconnecting the Battery. It should reset by removing the EFI fuse for few seconds... It might say ECM on some models so don't be fooled. Removing the fuse is much easier and also there is no need to restore the security code for the radio if you have such one installed. If everything fails, you can do so by disconnecting the Battery.

Hope it gets sorted soon. Good luck!

[adi]

yes point taken, i was in a particularly bad mood when i posted that.. apologies.

Although i've always thought that the most sensible way of problem solving is to work backwards, and theres no point in changing plugs,leads, filter if youre O2 sensor is still giving an incorrect reading. Eliminate the most likely part, and then work your way backwards until the problem goes...

[oldskool]

Thanks guys,

Disconnected the Battery after the EFI fuse did not reset light for, left Battery for 30mins and guess what ? It didnt work neither did the stations lose their settings :ffs:

I will try to leave it disconnected for over an hour next time.

Will post results

What do u guys think about that oxygen sensor http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...2417426121&rd=1

[cal]

Hello adi,

Don't worry. You are right that elimination is the name of the game. However, the question here is the O2 sensor on 4A-FE leanburn engine. The O2 sensor on this car is slightly more expensive than the conventional O2 sensor so I was worried in case that was not the O2 sensor, poor oldskool will be folking out unnecessary expense. For instance, say if the fuel pump is faulty, that can still trash back O2 sensor code as the mixture will be stuck at lean all the time and O2 sensor will give lean reading all the time, yet there is nothing wrong with the sensor itself.

Now, oldskool,

If you left the Battery disconnected for over 30 minutes and if the code is still there, that is odd. Usually over a minute will be enough to reset the ECU.

I have to make one thing clear before we go even further. When you say, it is not reset, do you mean, the engine light comes on when the engine is actually running? Or, do you mean that the engine light does not come on when the engine is running but when you stop the engine and link the terminals it gives the code?

[oldskool]

Cal,

Engine light comes on (illuminated constantly) when engine is running & also gives the code when diagnosing. After leaving Battery disconnested for 30 mins and when the engine is re-started the light comes on 2 seconds after ignition (same as before reset no difference).

The car itself runs perfect 80k ful toyota s/hist but im not taking it to Toyota again.

I have to say Toyota dealers here a ripp off as I took my GT4 to repair a minor gasket oil leak and the W8nkers wanted £80 to check for the leak and on top wanted £££ for the repair.

I must say Honda dealers service on the VTI was 10/10 just took it in for a distributor to be fitted and they checked the whole car for me for free and gave it back washed and vacumed and interior protection (no charge)..

Thanks

[TheNissanMan]

Firsdt thing I would do is reset the ECU and try run the car again, I had the O2 warning light come on and there wasn't a problem with the engine it just tripped...

Second time it came up with O2 sensor one of the fans into the engine had come unplugged so numerous things it could be !

[cal]

Cal,

Engine light comes on (illuminated constantly) when engine is running & also gives the code when diagnosing. After leaving battery disconnested for 30 mins and when the engine is re-started the light comes on 2 seconds after ignition (same as before reset no difference).

Hello oldskool,

I see. If the light is on constantly, obviously there is a fault at all times which may be much easier as some faults are intermittent which is pain in the :censor: to diagnose.

I would check the O2 sensor output with either the voltmeter or an O2 sensor checker. If the light is on constantly, if could be a simple thing like open circuit but it is best to make sure. Hold the revs to around 2500rpm and monitor the voltage, it should go somewhere between 0.3V to 0.8V up and down. As before, perform this test when the engine is fully warmed up.

Also, like rhaines said, check the wirings and connectors for obvious signs. O2 sensor fault code is the only fault code that sometimes means other things.

Keep us posted with how you get on. Good luck.

[oldskool]

Thanks Cal,

Will check, unfortunately I only have a digital voltometer and dont know what settings to leave it on its a dam complicated one but will check all the wiring first....

Thanks again people

[timf]

I see that Gunson do a fault code reader for the Carina E 4A/FE engine. See www.gunson.co.uk.

Does anyone know where it is possible to obtain a fault code reader for the 7A/FE (ie 1.8) engine?