Mr2 Mk1, Might 'aquire' One In Future

[Twincam.GTi]

Okay Guys and Girls,

Firstly appologies all round as I realise this sort of question gets asked time and time again (as with any model of vehicle).

But I would like some general advice on buying a MK1 MR2 (1985-89 era) as I may add one to my collection of Jalopies (Unless a 70's Celica RA28 or Opel 'Stringray' Manta 'A series' turns up :P ). I did stumble across a buyers guide on the web which did tell me about rust/rot areas.

I'm used to messing with/bodging up vehicles and am fully conversant with good 'ole British banger sports cars (such as MGB GT, TR7 etc), plus I have a Corolla GTi so am alright managing with '4AGE engined vehicles'. Hence you now see my attraction to MR2 MK1s

I realise as per any old car (at price I will pay ) work will be require to keep it rollin' but it will be an M.O.T'ed runner I will buy. I do realise MR2 mk1's are rust buckets (well I know mine will be :D )

I was just curious on certain things i.e. as to how 'thick' and easy to weld the metal is on an MR2 MK1 (always able to 'slap a plate' on for MOT with the British wrecks ), do the 'flip up' headlamp pods fall apart/ jam/ rot there mountings (like a TR7) etc.? Any common mechanical faults (apart from engine as I know 4AGE's pretty good after 12 years of owning my GTi).

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[mr2mk1g]

mk1's are a lot better with the rot than you're probably used to. The only place I bet you'll have problems (unless you buy yourself an absolute dog) will be the wheel arches (rear more than the front). Mr. T decided to stick lovely foam inserts in there see to hold the water against the metal. How nice of him.

T-bars sometimes have rot around the bar, any might have problems crop up on the sills... but this is easy enough to repair. There are a number of pre shaped pannels on the market which I think are to be welded although I never went down this route myself. Filler also works wonders as I'm sure you'll know if you catch things before it gets structural.

I've don't think there is any significant instance of problems with the head lights. Suspension can be a bit lacklustre after 15+ years. Seat leather goes. Red paint goes pink. alloys flake. Cooling systems come alive with quirks. But you'll probably find the Mk1 to be a breath of reliability after some of the cars you list... probably. ;)

[Twincam.GTi]

mr2mk1g Posted Today, 03:38 PM

  ... But you'll probably find the Mk1 to be a breath of reliability after some of the cars you list... probably. 

Thank you sir!

Believe it or not the MK1 MR2 is now being declared the next 'affordable/ banger' sports car in classic car circles (in the same way MGB GT's and TR7's where a couple of years ago).

Nether of the two I'm looking at are 'T'bars both are (and need to be) 'full roofs' as I might make the one I aquire into a 'Hillclimber/track day car'.

...And yes all four wheel arches have carroded a bit on both of them

[System~G]

Hi mate B)

There are basically two versions of the MKI (1985-1987 & 1987-1989) Also refered to as MKIa & MKIb. Both versions appear to have shared components in no specific order. Some MKIa's have side skirts and others don't. All MKIb's have skirts, mudflaps and a different front valance/air dam. MKIa mudflaps are different to MKIb's. Not all 'a''s have mudflaps. The interiors are different between the two and the 'b' has aditional rear Speakers. There is an active "sub" under the drivers seat in the 'a' - not sure about the 'b'...

MKIb has a stronger engine and gearbox than the MKIa. The airbox is in the boot on the 'b' and in the engine bay on an 'a'.

'b' Has bigger discs and different calipers/caliperbrackets than the 'a'. Calipers have a tendency of binding/seizing.

No problems as far as electrics go (well nothing easily sorted). Window mechanisms often fail - normally driver's side. It's usually just the cog with teeth missing or the mechanism has slipped off it's "rails".

Make sure you get as much history as possible. Normal 4A-GE thing sto look out for. Both versions have 121.9bhp @ 6 600rpm.

Both versions suffer rust on arches, sills, top of window, door pillars and hinges and anywhere the body has suffered a chip and not been repaired properly. A well looked after car should have no rust at all - bar mabe a few tiney bubbles on the arches, but as you know, if there are bubbles - it's too late. All arches/panels are available new or second hand from breakers/ebay.

Pricing varies from £250 for one that needs a fair bit of work to £2k for a minter. I have seen some advertised for well over £3k, but I think the sellers are being a tad optimistic.

Good bed time reading:

MKI Club

IMOC

MR2OC- UK

MR2OC - USA

Ontario MR2

Driver's Club

Club 4A-GE

Of course there's always the Supercharged MKI to consider :P

If you ever do yourself one favour - you'll buy a MKI ;)

[Twincam.GTi]

System~G

Thank you sir!

I woundered how long it would be before you 'appeared' and after your little guide I'm very glad you did (in fact I did think of 'PM'ing you personally for advice).

I stress i'm only in the 'thinking of' stage at the moment as this month two MR2's have been offered to me. Both 1989, one 'F'reg a sort of denim blue metalic and the other a 'G' plate which is 'Mica blue' metalic (the same colour as my GTi).

Both are around the £1000 area

However I do need to 'negotiate' more garage/storage space if I aquire one

[System~G]

PM away any time mate ;)

I may be 33... but god dammit it's not old enough to be called "sir"!!!