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Posted

nrgizer....your intelligence has met a match! :lol: meh, i think set my mind and go for synthetic 10w30...or 0w30....i just need to be bothered :ph34r:


Posted

well oilman hasn't disagreed with anything i said :thumbsup: I am starting my job at an oil company in september hopefully so i should be a bit more clued up by then

Posted

oooh, money money money eh? what company if i may be so bold to ask....itd better be Shell, cause theyre associated with ferrari and ferrari kick a*s...not that being italian has anything to do with that quote :unsure:

Posted

It'll take you a while mate. I've been in the business for donkeys years and don't know the half of it ;)

Cheers

Simon

Posted

a module on tribology was enough for me :( found it quite interesting though.

No its not Shell, I got a job interview there - it was in the hague in HOlland! didn't go though as i'd taken the other job before then.

I'm off to work for the company that owns Jet, not sure if you get them down south but there's plenty of them in the north.


Posted

. Can someone just suggest to me in the long run which would be best for my engine if money was no object, not quote how oil works, as i have enough books already!!

I do understand but want your best opionions as so many people use different oils.

Standard engine wise apart from sus blitz filter, fmic, cat-back and uprated actuator. 1991 gt engine, 60,000 miles.

5w 30 Mobil

10w 40 semi

10w 60 rs

best one with my engine?Both if you should know!!

I know regular changes and sticking to the same brand, which i do, is a must, but want to get it right from the start so i get the max life from her, not forgetting she could have had different juice in japan! thanks!!

toby

Posted

I'll keep it short :D

5w30 Mobil.

Posted

thanks bro!!!! :lol: :D :P

Is that the extended performance range.

Will change asap, tobs

Posted

It might well be.

Mobil 1 comes in Xw30 as does Castrol Formula RS/SLX. so i guess either of those two would be okay.

happy turboing and oil changing :thumbsup:

Posted

lovely, thanks bro

T

:yes::drool::lol::thumbsup: B)

Posted
It might well be.

Mobil 1 comes in Xw30 as does Castrol Formula RS/SLX. so i guess either of those two would be okay.

happy turboing and oil changing :thumbsup:

hah, one more question...which oil is best, Castrol, Mobil, Shell??

im looking at Castrol magnatec or Shell helix..but what do you suggest (and i take it 5w30 is best for a 64,000mi stock 5efe)

Posted

I'm off to work for the company that owns Jet, not sure if you get them down south but there's plenty of them in the north.

Indeed the mighty Conoco Phillips.

Know them well! I have been one of their Authorised Distributors for 13 years!

We sell their fuels only, other peoples lubricants ;)

Take a look at this pic: http://www.opieoils.co.uk

Cheers

Simon

Posted
. Can someone just suggest to me in the long run which would be best for my engine if money was no object, not quote how oil works, as i have enough books already!!

Best = 5w-40 fully synthetic (TOP ones containing esters Silkolene PRO, Motul 300V etc)

Cheapest = 10w-40 semi-synthetic (Any old brand will do)

There you have it, that's what I would recommend.

Cheers

Simon

Posted
It might well be.

Mobil 1 comes in Xw30 as does Castrol Formula RS/SLX. so i guess either of those two would be okay.

happy turboing and oil changing :thumbsup:

hah, one more question...which oil is best, Castrol, Mobil, Shell??

im looking at Castrol magnatec or Shell helix..but what do you suggest (and i take it 5w30 is best for a 64,000mi stock 5efe)

Lets get one thing straight Castrol Magnatec is not a top oil. It's a petroleum "hydrocracked" oil. Shell Helix Ultra is a PAO, its better.

Oil basestocks vary in quality, the best ones are Group IV and V. here is a quick rundown of how the quality stacks up. Magnetec is only a blend of II and III.

Basestock categories and descriptions

All oils are comprised of basestocks and additives. Basestocks make up the majority of the finished product and represent between 75-95%.

Not all basestocks are derived from petroleum, in fact the better quality ones are synthetics made in laboratories by chemists specifically designed for the application for which they are intended.

Basestocks are classified in 5 Groups as follows:

Group I

These are derived from petroleum and are the least refined. These are used in a small amount of automotive oils where the applications are not demanding.

Group II

These are derived from petroleum and are mainly used in mineral automotive oils. Their performance is acceptable with regards to wear, thermal stability and oxidation stability but not so good at lower temperatures.

Group III

These are derived from petroleum but are the most refined of the mineral oil basestocks. They are not chemically engineered like synthetics but offer the highest level of performance of all the petroleum basestocks. They are also known as “hydrocracked” or “molecularly modified” basestocks.

They are usually labelled/marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and make up a very high percentage of the oils retailed today.

Group IV

These are polyalphaolefins known as PAO and are chemically manufactured rather than being dug out of the ground. These basestocks have excellent stability in both hot and cold temperatures and give superior protection due to their uniform molecules.

Group V

These special basestocks are also chemically engineered but are not PAO.

The main types used in automotive oils are diesters and polyolesters. Like the group IV basestocks they have uniform molecules and give superior performance and protection over petroleum basestocks. These special stocks are used in all aviation engines due to their stability and durability. Esters are also polar (electro statically attracted to metal surfaces) which has great benefits. They are usually blended with Group IV stocks rather than being used exclusively.

It is common practice for oil companies to blend different basestocks to achieve a certain specification, performance or cost. The blending of group IV and V produces lubricants with the best overall performance which cannot be matched by any of the petroleum basestock groups.

Get the drift now?

Cheers

Simon


Posted

and which oils fall into the group iv and group v?

Posted

Group IV is Poly Alpha Olefin which is the likes of Mobil 1, Fuchs Supersyn, Shell Helix Ultra and all 0w oils.

Group V mainly specialist racing oils (top quality) for road use also, the likes of Motul 300V, Silkolene PRO, Redline etc.

You'll find technical data on some of these oils here:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm

Cheers

Simon

Posted

Thanks mate you have been a real help!!!!!

Right, now I know what oils are good and which are bad.

As you said im goona either choose over group iv and v. Either Shell, Mobil or the the Silkolen stuff.

Now I know the best oil, are you sure 5w 40 would be the most sutiable for my car.

1991 GT engine, (uk cliamte)

60,00 miles

A few basic performance mods.

Toyota recommend a 5w 30.

Oilman, which do you think is better for my engine, what toyota suggested in Japan: 5w 30, or 5w 40 as you suggest.

Just renewed with a 10w 40 semi but want to change after what ive heard! Then il stick to the same stuff!!!

Thanks, t

Posted

Most japanese manuals specify 5w-30 or 10w-30 however all European based databases quote 5w-40 or 10w-40.

This is the reason why you see 5w-40 and 10w-40 around more.

I would use a 5w-40 synthetic, your options are many and price will generally determine quality. You will get the same cold start as a 5w-30 but a bit more top end protection when pushing the engine.

You can always email me for a price list.

Cheers

Simon

Posted

Most japanese manuals specify 5w-30 or 10w-30 however all European based databases quote 5w-40 or 10w-40.

This is the reason why you see 5w-40 and 10w-40 around more.

I would use a 5w-40 synthetic, your options are many and price will generally determine quality. You will get the same cold start as a 5w-30 but a bit more top end protection when pushing the engine.

You can always email me for a price list.

Cheers

Simon

Posted

oilman,

1 things want to ask u,

have u been try to use 5W/40 oil in second hand japanese import,

seen those import engine worn with 5W/30 oil in japan,

when they r over here use 10W/40 oil really noise tappet,

i found only reduce that noise is use 10W/30 oil, but i have not try 5W/40 oil

Posted

after reading these posts it makes it seem like its dangerous to run your car at all unless you have exactly the right oil.

im just gonna use up the 10w-40 i have left then ill change to 5w-30 or 5w-40. i know 5w-30 is reasonably easy to get as thats what i used in my fiesta.

but i would have thought that just following the guidelines from the manufacturer would be correct? if the engine is standard of course?

Posted

I've now changed again to 5w 40 fully synthetic Shell Helix (the top one in black bottle)

Cold starts are a lot more pleasant now!!! Was a bit smokey at the begginig but its starting to clear, looking good so far. Just need to sort evertyhing else. Shagged wheel bearings, wrong nuts, dodgy steering, great!!!

Posted

I use a fully syntheic 5/50 with no problems

Posted

Toby just did an oil filter change on mine at work. i used semi bp oil. only did it last fri but i been to manchester and back and it feels so much better. oh yeah wen can get i get that exhaust. an runnin out of spending money. i'll spend it all on beer if u don't sell us it soon.l8rz

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