The Start Of Somthing Special

[MIP]

I've been saving for a long while now, and last week replaced my weak 1.1litre fiesta with a fantastic celica GT, 1998, UK model (in silver with nice black leather). Its fantastic, took a day or two to get used to the clutch, but all is well.

Now I'm not mechanicly minded though I understand the basics, however I do really want to look after my new pride and joy, and learn about its workings as I go. Its got a full toyota service history, and I'll keep up servicing it though I can't afford to do it with toyota.

Four problems/concerns:

1. General driving, there are no rattles or noises, however, on some rougher surfaced roads that cause continuous vibration, I have noticed some area's of the car where you get a distinct kind of rattle or buzz. Behind the drivers seat at the back, roughly where the passenger seatbelt comes out, and a quieter one around the drivers side air vent on the right. How do you troubleshoot rattles and noises generally? I'll get a haynes manual n try n work out where you can open it up to tighten things, but any help would be appreciated.

2. How do you tighten the handbrake cable?

3. Is there a way of checking the condition of the clutch as the cars done nearly 100k miles? I thought it might be slipping, either that or its my inexperienced driving and I'm just accidently reving the engine a bit as I try fast gear changes. I can describe this better if you need more detail...

4. The car wouldn't start yesterday. All the electrics would come on, but there wasn't enough power to even begin to turn the engine and all the lights just flickered and it made a fast ticking noise. Fortunatly the cars under a three month warrenty from the place I bought it. They came out and swapped the Battery and it worked straight away. They said it was just a duff Battery, but the car had been working the evening before, is there any chance of some other underlieing problem?

Any further tips for keeping the celica in mint condition and working well are also appreciated.

[sotal]

Nice choice of car

1. Noises - Not had to do it yet on the celica but silicone sealant does wonders at stoping rattles and buzzes! I use both black and clear depending on where it's going. Some people also use bluetac - but I think it's too visible in most places.

2. Dunno on this car! I would expect there to be an adjuster on the back of the handbrake. normally a couple of nuts which you turn with a spanner to tighten it. I don't use the handbrake much so it never needs tightening and it normally gets adjusted if need at it's MOT free of charge.

3. My car has done 111k miles and the clutch is starting to slip but only on cold wetish days when I first set out. As far as I know if the clutch slips it will judder and not move very fast. What you describe does sound like you are revving before the biting point?? - Not 100% sure on that though??

4. Does sound like the Battery was duff. Probably not been used much before you got it and using it again has finished it off? I'm sure others would correct me if I'm wrong but if your alternator was playing up then the Battery light would light up all the time on the dash.

Anyway welcome to the club! Only tip I can think of is to always use a genuine oil filter as they have a specila valve in them and Halfords ones or anything like that don't have the valve in

[GT4 BOOSTER]

handbrake is done by peeling back the gaitor to reveal a 10mm nut head, take handbrake off before moving the nut.

[daktari]

Cant suggest anything for the rattles really, other than what sotal has already suggested.

The handbrake should have an adjuster nut at the rear of the lever. You mayl have to remove the trim to get to it. I can just get to mine with a quarter inch drive socket and extension bar.

Best way to test the clutch is to find a straightish bit of road, preferably with an uphill gradient. Make sure your in 3rd or 4th gear approx 3-4k RPM and just put your foot down hard on the throttle. If the engine speed rises and road speed stays the same it`ll be time to get your wallet out. :(

It does sound as though the Battery is duff. They can just go virtually overnight. Especially if it`s a bit chilly. If you want to check that the alternator is charging you`ll need a volt meter. Just connect it between the Battery terminals. Readings should be about 12-13 volts with the engine off. 13.8 - 14.4 volts with the engine running at around 2k.

[MIP]

I appreciate all the help so far everyone :) I'll do that straight road/hill test out of third, see what happens with the clutch.

Its pretty difficult to identify where exactly a noise if coming from, but if I somehow work it out, I'll apply that silicon sealant.

I'm slightly scared of bridging the two terminals of a car Battery with the two ends of my voltmeter, in the same way I'd be scared of licking both my index fingers and doing the same. I'm not creating a complete circuit through myself am I? The voltmeter I've got I typically used for small scale electronics, you don't need somthing different for a car do you? Its got two metal spiked with plastic grips on two wires coming out of it. I think I'd have to be wearing rubber gloves at the same time

[martint]

no you wont create a circuit through you, the probes are insulated! even a cheap voltmeter should be ok for testing the Battery, as long its can take 20v's look on the meter it will tell you, it will say some thing like 0-10v,10v-20v, etc, make sure its set to DC thou, not AC or you'll get a weird reading. tried to add a picture of my old meter to show... ;)

[MIP]

Yea, the clutch is definatly slipping then. I tried shoving it out of both 2nd, 3rd and 4th up a hill and it just wasn't deliving the power n the revs where staying on 5k as clutch wasn't biting properly. Gonna ring up the dealer today, it says in my warrenty booklet that the clutch is covered, so I'm gonna get that replaced I hope. I'll get em to tighten the handbrake at the same time. Thank god for the warrenty, fingers crossed, a brand new clutch at just under 100k miles.

[Kevstir]

the best way to check a clutch is do around 15 mph stick it in 3rd keep the clutch pedal pressed down , when rolling hold the revs at 3k and ping the clutch as fast as you can , if the engine dies in an instant then the clutch is in good nick, if it takes a while to slow down then the clutch is on its way out, learned this from a few guys a new that bought and sold cars for a living

Hope you get it sorted under warranty m8

Kev

[MIP]

I've got off the phone to the dealer this afternoon, and next week I'm going to take it down to them. Apparently, their going to tighten somthing to do with the clutch. Now I can imagine this only as a temporary solution at best perhaps, could this mess with the feel of the clutch and not solve any underlying problems like worn plates?

I'd be much more comfortable if he was suggesting changing parts, what would people advise?

[Kevstir]

i very much doubt they will be able to tighten anything as the clutch in out cars are hydraulic (no clutch cable to adjust) the only adjustment that's possible is in the pedal to adjust the free play and i doubt that would affect the cluth operation if it was out.

Kev

[GT4 BOOSTER]

there is an old thread of gordypics i think on ajusting the clutch travel in the mr2 section . it is a short measure only and the garage is taking the micheal if thats all they are gonna do, ask them to claim for some other componant that is covered on the warranty and have them put a new clutch in it.

take a look at this http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume2/clutch.htm

[daktari]

As Kevstir states. The only adjustment of the clutch is on the pedal freeplay. There is also the posibility of air in the hydraulic system but this would be unlikely to cause clutch slip. The reverse in fact. Gear selection would be dificult if possible at all and the clutch would drag. But let them play with it. I don`t think they will have any success. It`s only delaying the inevitable.

[Cubic Incubi]

regarding servicing, yours has full Mr T service history - i would consider continuing the services for general filters and oil to keep getting the book stamped, and get them to advise on other things such as links, bushes, bearings etc - the other stuff not engine service related is how they make all the extra money - a service should be a fixed price which is affordable - then DIY the other stuff or take to independant garage mechanic and give him the parts.

[MIP]

Update: He's not going to try and adjust anything with the clutch for the reasons people here have stated above. Due to the warrenty not covering wear n tear, it doesn't cover the clutch. But I pushed just a bit seen as its so new, and the dealer has agree'd to pay half, so I'm getting a new clutch fitted for £150. Not the end of the world...the outer limits of my overdraught, but not the end of the world.

[IanGT]

so I'm getting a new clutch fitted for £150. Not the end of the world

Thats a great price i paid £600 for clutch and fitting plus flywheel skimming, cheapest place i could find at the time others wanted grand plus.