Celica Newbie Help

[Robbo49]

Just a couple questions really.

1. how much should i look to be paying for a good condition gt4 (st185)

2. whats the difference between the UK and Jam import cars?

3. what should i be looking and listening out for when viewing them?

4. whats the fuel consumption like?

cheers guys.

Robbo

[daktari]

Welcome to TOC

To answer your questions.

1/ Anywhere between 2-4K depending on mileage, service history etc. You can pick up a rough one for about a grand. :(

2/ Not a huge difference. JDM cars are mapped for 99 RON fuel and produce a bit more power. But you have to run them on optimax or similar to get it. A couple of trim differences and thats about it. A JDM car usually has lower mileage as a rule.

3/ Same as any other car really. If they do have a weakness then i suppose it would be fair to say wheel bearings can be a bit fragile. But like most Toyotas the engines and mechanicals are virtually bombproof. Obviously look out for signs of neglect, poor servicing etc. But if you buy a car with a full Toyota service history then you`ll be pretty safe. Rust isn`t an issue with these cars unless it`s been involved in an acident and poorly repaired. The shells are galvanised. Buying one just needs to be approached with a bit of common sense.

4/ What fuel consumption??? If your after a commuting vehicle thats good on fuel... Go buy a diesel. If you want something that`ll have you grinning ear to ear Get the GT4. Typically a standard one will give you roughly 20-25mpg mixed. 30-35mpg on a motorway run. And if your an animal with the throttle or modifying them to any great extent then you can halve those figures.

Best fun you can have with your clothes on.

Apparently the ST205 aint bad either...... or so it`s rumoured.

[GT4 BOOSTER]

Welcome to TOC 

To answer your questions.

1/ Anywhere between 2-4K depending on mileage, service history etc. You can pick up a rough one for about a grand.   :(

2/ Not a huge difference. JDM cars are mapped for 99 RON fuel and produce a bit more power. But you have to run them on optimax or similar to get it. A couple of trim differences and thats about it. A JDM car usually has lower mileage as a rule.

3/ Same as any other car really. If they do have a weakness then i suppose it would be fair to say wheel bearings can be a bit fragile. But like most Toyotas the engines and mechanicals are virtually bombproof. Obviously look out for signs of neglect, poor servicing etc. But if you buy a car with a full Toyota service history then you`ll be pretty safe. Rust isn`t an issue with these cars unless it`s been involved in an acident and poorly repaired. The shells are galvanised. Buying one just needs to be approached with a bit of common sense.

4/ What fuel consumption??? If your after a commuting vehicle thats good on fuel... Go buy a diesel. If you want something that`ll have you grinning ear to ear Get the GT4. Typically a standard one will give you roughly 20-25mpg mixed. 30-35mpg on a motorway run. And if your an animal with the throttle or modifying them to any great extent then you can halve those figures.

Best fun you can have with your clothes on.     

Apparently the ST205 aint bad either...... or so it`s rumoured.   

←

that's sooo true.specially the fuel part they drink it like a wurzel drinks cider.

on a long run i get very good mpg at a steady 60 mph - hump the gt4 all the time and your wallet will soon empty.

[Robbo49]

well, im not one for hammering my car constantly anyway so my right foot seems to be well trained!!!

ill only really use the car on the motorway and dual carriageways, oh and for the occasional b-road blast when visiting my girlfriends parents in east yorkshire :)

cheers for the help so far guys, how can i tell am import from a UK car by photos, cause not everyone on the trader specify which there gt4 is!

-->Robbo

[Cubic Incubi]

Robbo,

Welcome to TOC.

Firstly I will explain differences. Externally there are basically 2. The bonnet of the UK model has a spoiler on the bonnet, by the windshield wiper that runs along the width of the bonnet.

From the rear the UK car has a standard long oblong number plate where as the jdm has an off square number plate, this is due to the panel it fits on, it is different to the uk car and the trim above the bumper than runs the width of the car in not as high on the JDM car.

also, look at the chassis number. UK cars will have ST185R-BLMVZG and jdm cars will begin E-ST185H-BLMVZ.

Next, consider the car you choose, you have two basic options, a standard car or a rally version.

the differences and what it means in practical terms;

The main differences between the ST185 gt4 and R series gt4 (CS,RC, Gropu A) are;

- Different front bumper and hood vents for cooling.

- Water cooled intercooler with watersprayers (somewhere hidden), in stead of the air cooled intercooler.

- Other (internal) gearbox (E151F).

- ECU with fuel- and ignitionmaps till ±1.1 bar in stead of 0.83 bar. standard car has air to air intercooler, and fewer fuel maps

the JDM is mapped to run on 101 ron fuel and is rated at 225ps, the uk version is rated at 205ps.

Modifying them?

should you wish to up the boost on the standard model, anything more than 12 psi and you will be out of the range of thermal efficiency, mass flow will not be effective due to insufficient charge cooling, the turbo will be putting out too much heat and bearing/seal failure is possible, air cooled and oil lubricated - your oil is very important as the feed lines can block.

the CS version can take 1 bar and has the maps to 1.1 as the thermal efficiency will keep oil temps down keeping the stock turbo safe - but not a good idea prolonged - it will eventualy go if abused.

In terms of driveability, the additional cooling on the 185 RC versions make a hell of a lot of difference, to get the same from the standard car you need at least a stage one turbo and FMIC, then you will need to change the bonnet as it has a scoop for the top mount intercooler - after the FMIC and turbo upgrade, you will want to vent air not scoop it in - theres up to a grand allready, so if you plan to modify - buy the RC version as its the best platform for 300BHP. it costs a grand more.

hope that helps - feel free to ask me any questions.

[Cubic Incubi]

i'm in the process of writing a generation 5 sticky which will cover all models on uk soil including all JDM options.

til then - ask away.