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What Have I Done To My Car? Please Help!


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Posted

Hello All,

Right let me just give you some background here....since i've last posted I have fitted a used Bailey BOV(last week and the car has been driving fine...nice noise etc..)

Please refer to this post......I fitted it with the standard BOV still connected

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php...0992&highlight=

and I have added some Octane booster to a nice full tank of optimax(done on tuesday...haven't really driven the car hard until this morning)

Anyway so I am driving around Edinburgh this sunny afternoon and I let the engine reach a decent temp(I was driving slowly for about 20 minutes)....I eventually get to an A-Road and I floor it to the speed limit

1st gear - Nice acceleration, small dump valve noise (normal)

2nd Gear - Nice acceleration, large dump valve noise (normal)

3rd Gear - Good acceleration...boost gauge(stock) shows full boosting....but no noise from dump. I really put my foot down. More so then I have done all week

4th Gear - NO noise from dump...lack lustre acceleration....I %hit myself

I drove it slowly back to my flat and on the way the engine cut out on me once at the lights. The car seems to be idling VERY lumpy. It alsmost sounded like I had a whole in my exhaust. The engine was just not ticking over right. When I hesistantly tried accelerating the car did so...but with no va va voom. No dump valve noise at all....and the boost gauge didn't move once. I pulled the car over and took a look under the bonnet, Everything seemed in place. I did however notice a SPATTERING OF OIL coming out of the Bailey Dump Valve....hmmm

Now what do you think I have done to my engine?

I haven't taken it in yet as I want to problemshoot myself first....

- Could it be the full tank of petrol with this Octane Booster stuff? This is the first time I have used it since owning the car

- Could it be the Bailey's BOV is at fault? And perhaps it's somehow 'stuck open'? Therefore I am losing all boost pressure? If so why is my car idling so lumpy?? Is the affecting the Air/Fuel Mix?

- Anything else???

I would really like your feedback...I am a newbie in dire straight!

One thing I could easily do is remove the BOV and reconnect the standard BOV....but I will wait to see what you lot think?

Lastly could I have done SOMETHING REALLY REALLY BAD? That's going to cost me a fortune?

Thanks in advance

KL(Rev1 Turbo)


Posted

take it off and try the car again.

Posted

yup best way process of elimination. check the security of all hoses. also check that the wastegate hasnt stuck open. other than that could be tubie faliure (hope not).

hope you get it sorted bro

Posted
yup best way process of elimination. check the security of all hoses. also check that the wastegate hasnt stuck open. other than that could be tubie faliure (hope not).

hope you get it sorted bro

I hope it's not complete failure!

I am going to attempt to take it off.....

How do I know if the wastegate is stuck open?

KL

Posted
yup best way process of elimination. check the security of all hoses. also check that the wastegate hasnt stuck open. other than that could be tubie faliure (hope not).

hope you get it sorted bro

I hope it's not complete failure!

I am going to attempt to take it off.....

How do I know if the wastegate is stuck open?

KL

Bailey dump valves are not known for being the greatest in the world. A friends's RS Trouble ate many of them. Wouldn recommend one for an MR2 tubby. Stick the stock one back on.

R.


Posted
yup best way process of elimination. check the security of all hoses. also check that the wastegate hasnt stuck open. other than that could be tubie faliure (hope not).

hope you get it sorted bro

**UPDATE**

OK I have completely removed the Baileys BOV and hooked everything back up as it was....

I let the car warm up...driving for about 10 mins (30mph max)....tried to accelerating up to 50mph. The car did so BUT THERE WAS NO TURBO SPOOL.....

The car idles better but still doesn't sound quite right....just a bit 'too' noisy along with associated vibrations.

On another forum someone mentioned that the I should reset the ECU? And I should also check for the wastegate being stuck open....

1. How do I reset the ECU?

2. How do I check for the wastegate being stuck open?

I am really quite worried now....

what a way to spend one's saturday evening

KL

Posted

^^BUMP^^

Posted

I had the exact same symptoms as yourself , sounds like the turbo is knacked.

Take off you induction hose of the front off the turbo and feel the veins ,it should spin freely if not it`s doomed,or check for oil coming out of the housing .does`nt sound to good but fingers crossed it`s just an air leak . GOOD LUCK :thumbsup:

Posted

1. How do I reset the ECU?

2. How do I check for the wastegate being stuck open?

---

1. Warm car up, turn off. Pull EFI and ECU fuses front and rear (3 of in total, 1 up front in fuse box and 2 in back). Wait 5 mins, replace fuses.

2. You need to take the downpipe off for that one - not recommended.

R.

Posted

I have blown 2 turbo's !!

This sounds very turbo releated...no spool up, no boost, no power !!!

Things to check

Take off your intake from filter to turbo, feel the turbo blades, what are they like, loose / tight / wobbly ?

Take off a hose from the pressurised side, is it full of oil or clean ?

Check you actuator arm, is it still connected to the wastegate ?

To check if the wastegate is stuck open you will need to remove the downpipe (if you have a de-cat this will be easier than without !)

Posted
I had the exact same symptoms as yourself , sounds like the turbo is knacked.

Take off you induction hose of the front off the turbo and feel the veins ,it should spin freely if not it`s doomed,or check for oil coming out of the housing .does`nt sound to good but fingers crossed it`s just an air leak .  GOOD LUCK :thumbsup:

Good to here from a fellow Scottish MR2 Owner....

Anyway....I have put the car into garage at a decent local mechanic so they can investigate...without charge. I would love to further investigate myself but I don't seem to have the tools or the time

I'd be gutted if I just killed the turbo like that though....like I said everything was grand until I slipped into 3rd and floored it! I am really hoping it's an air leak

KL

Posted
1. How do I reset the ECU?

2. How do I check for the wastegate being stuck open?

---

1. Warm car up, turn off. Pull EFI and ECU fuses front and rear (3 of in total, 1 up front in fuse box and 2 in back). Wait 5 mins, replace fuses.

2. You need to take the downpipe off for that one - not recommended.

R.

Cheers rick! I have done so now but I got a bollo*king on another forum

If the dump valve stopped working then a couple of things could have happened,

1) Turbo died

2) Vacuum hose to dump valve split or come unattached

3) Dump valve failed

4) Boost pipe split / Intercooler leaking

Now you've put everything back to normal but still have no turbo spool so the problems could be,

1) Turbo died

2) Standard dump valve hooked up wrong and stuck open

3) Split in boost pipe / Intercooler

Unfortanately you've already made the stupid mistake of resetting the ECU. NEVER Reset the ECU when you have a problem like this, if it recorded an error that would have been useful to the cause of the problem you've just cleared the memory and that code is lost.

To check the operation of the wastegate you need a device like a mityvac. This lets you pump pressure in to the actuator and you can check travel on the rod. However to see if the wastegate is opening or stuck open, you need to remove the turbo elbow / downpipe. However if the wastegate was stuck wide open, you would still get "some" boost, it would just be very laggy.

How are you measuring boost pressure? Standard boost gauge or an after market one? Have you checked the pipe to the turbo pressure sensor is still attached and hasn't come away?

Sounds to me like it could be a number of problems, you've not helped yourself by fitting a bailey dump valve or resetting the ECU. I think the most likely cause of the problem is a vacuum leak in the control line to the dump valve. This would stop the Bailey from working and also make the standard one bypass boost pressure, it will also cause a lumpy idle.

Check the vacuum lines for splits and / or hissing when the engine is running

http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/Forums/viewtopic/p=144543.html#144543

KL

Posted
I have blown 2 turbo's !!

DUDE! WHAT'S THAT ABOUT!!

This sounds very turbo releated...no spool up, no boost, no power !!!

YEAH....I THINK SO TOO.

Things to check

Take off your intake from filter to turbo, feel the turbo blades, what are they like, loose / tight / wobbly ?

YOUR ASKING ME TO LOOK FOR PLAY IN THE TURBO RIGHT? I HAVE ACTUALLY PUT IN THE GARAGE BUT I WILL ASK THEM TO CHECK. IS THIS SOMETHING I COULD HAVE DONE MYSELF?? CAN I REACH THE BLADES OF THE IMPELLER WHEEL?

Take off a hose from the pressurised side, is it full of oil or clean ?

WHICH SIDE IS PRESSURED? ON REFITTING THE STANDARD BOV I TOOK OFF THE INTERCOOLER PIPE ON THE TOP RIGHT HANDSIDE OF THE ENGINE. I NOTICED TINY SPLUTTERING OF OIL....BUT NOT A LOT

Check you actuator arm, is it still connected to the wastegate ?

I BELIEVE IT WAS

To check if the wastegate is stuck open you will need to remove the downpipe (if you have a de-cat this will be easier than without !)

SOUNDS TRICKY!

Posted
Unfortanately you've already made the stupid mistake of resetting the ECU. NEVER Reset the ECU when you have a problem like this, if it recorded an error that would have been useful to the cause of the problem you've just cleared the memory and that code is lost.

What a :censor: !!

And surely as soon as you drive the car again the fault code would come back because the problem would still be there??? :rolleyes:


  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just an update guys

Looks like my Turbo shaft has broken

my_ct26_1.jpg

Look for my new post asking about this!

Posted

So its hunting time for a cheap turbo then?

Might be able to help you out, pm me if your interested ;)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well I finally got my car back guys and what a !Removed! palava fuelled Drama!

Basically....Turbo Went

Bought a used CT26(£150)

Took it to a local garage to fix it.

Local Garage were a bunch of monkeys and I had to instruct them on what to do. They kept my car for 2 weeks

and charged me £300 for the pleasure (To be fair impeller wheel had smashed into teeny bits and the guy had to remove exhaust and cat)

Got the car back and it was like an old dog! The mechanic funked up my idling and the car stalled for fun

So much so that I had an embarassing moment at a set on traffic lights on a hot sunny day! Car failed to start and had to be towed!! :(

Gave up and went to Mr T (Western Toyota, Edinburgh) instead of taking it back to Bodgit&Scarper Mechanics

They sourced the problem as a dodgy Timing Belt....£200 to fix it. And the car started a treat

Also had a full service and compression check.....the car is NOW running like a dream. Idles properly, accleration is lovely

purrs like a cat

So the moral of the story is? I don't know...you tell me

All I know is that I am £900 lighter and can't afford to go on a summer holiday :(

Oh well...at least I have my '2'

And hear the story ends....thanks for everyone's help

KL

Posted

Glad that you are up and running mate. Wow £900 lighter :crybaby: Still it's worth it in the end mate. Like you said you've still got your tubby mate ;) And you know that everything is running sweet now :thumbsup:

jerry!!

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