K&n Air Filter

[Gedrick]

I have a gen5 gtr and I was thinking about putting an induction kit on it untill I read a lot of people on here dont think much of them, but do recomend replacing the standard air filter with a K&N one, but would it make much difference as my baby is an automatic.

I would have bought a manual, but all I could find for the money I had to spend was this auto, but I still love it!! :D

[frodo]

I have a gen5 gtr and I was thinking about putting an induction kit on it untill I read a lot of people on here dont think much of them, but do recomend replacing the standard air filter with a K&N one, but would it make much difference as my baby is an automatic.

I would have bought a manual, but all I could find for the money I had to spend was this auto, but I still love it!! :D

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drill some holes in the bottom of the airbox, fit an extra cold air feed so that it feeds the bottom of the box, and fit a performance panel filter. much better

[Tarby777]

I fitted a K&N 57i induction kit (£100 on eBay) to my '97 manual ST last week. As for whether any particular mod is better than another, it depends on what you're looking for. My experience of the 57i so far is that there's definitely a bit more oomph than before, but the engine note hasn't changed as much as I hoped it would.

I've seen friends fit a 57i to a variety of cars - most notably a G-reg BMW 325i - and it has changed the engine note dramatically, no matter how the car is driven. With the ST - which was virtually silent before - there's no difference at idle apart from a loud hissing for the first minute or two after starting from cold. Even tootling along at 70-75 isn't really any different to what it was before. The difference comes when you accelerate hard and a pleasant rumble shows up. Not exactly the kind of noise to have Evo drivers emptying their bowels as you pass - OK... as THEY pass - , but nice enough. (BTW, every Evo in the western world seemed to be on the M62 around Leeds on Sunday - was there a big meet?).

So... that's my impression so far. Mildly improved performance and a nice engine note when you push it. For a gentle soul such as myself, who spends 95% of his life beneath 4000 revs, I can't honestly say it's made a big difference but I'm still glad I did it, mainly because it's the first bit of work I've EVER done to a car and I'm really chuffed that I did it in around an hour on my own and the engine hasn't blown up. Hurrah for me!

HTH

Tarby

[frodo]

Induction kits work well with 6th gens, but unfortunately they don't work well with 5th gens. This has been proven on track, and drag strips.

[GT4 BOOSTER]

reset the ecu after each and every mod on the engine to gain the most benefit.i have the TRD panel filter , purely to save money on a regular filter at service times as they are washed and put back in.

if you want to drive around under 4000 rpm , i wont bother adding mods to a celica , above 4000 rpm is where the action is.

[Tarby777]

reset the ecu after each and every mod on the engine to gain the most benefit.

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How do you do that? Is it a garage job, or something I can do?

TIA

[GT4 BOOSTER]

take out fuse ecu , press brake to difuse any remaining 12v power , wait 20 secs , put fuse back in and BINGO

[Tarby777]

take out fuse ecu , press brake to difuse any remaining 12v power , wait 20 secs , put fuse back in and BINGO

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OK... I'll give it a whirl. Questions before I start:

1) I imagine the engine should not be running, in fact, I probably don't even need the key in the ignition. Is that right?

2) Do I need to disconnect the Battery?

3) I presume the 12v you referred to is in a capacitor smoothing out the voltage coming into the ECU. How does hitting the footbrake cause it to drain off?

4) I presume the goal of all this is to get the ECU to go through some kind of recalibration. When I start the engine, will it be possible to tell beyond doubt that the ECU has been reset, I mean, will it go through some kind of routine that will be obvious to me?

5) Which fuse are we talking about? I'm assuming it's the one referred to as "6 engine control module relay" in "fuse box engine bay 1" as shown at http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26524

TIA

Tarby

[daktari]

take out fuse ecu , press brake to difuse any remaining 12v power , wait 20 secs , put fuse back in and BINGO

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OK... I'll give it a whirl. Questions before I start:

1) I imagine the engine should not be running, in fact, I probably don't even need the key in the ignition. Is that right?

Yes

2) Do I need to disconnect the Battery?

No

3) I presume the 12v you referred to is in a capacitor smoothing out the voltage coming into the ECU. How does hitting the footbrake cause it to drain off?

Removes residual voltage that may be in the circuit by operating the brake lights, which work with the ignition off.

4) I presume the goal of all this is to get the ECU to go through some kind of recalibration. When I start the engine, will it be possible to tell beyond doubt that the ECU has been reset, I mean, will it go through some kind of routine that will be obvious to me?

No not really. You might notice the car runs differently for a few miles, This is because the ECU has been reset to default values and needs to relearn the characteristics of your particular engine.

5) Which fuse are we talking about? I'm assuming it's the one referred to as "6 engine control module relay" in "fuse box engine bay 1" as shown at http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26524

Dunno. Mines different. Do you have diagram on fuse box lid? :D

TIA

Tarby

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[GT4 BOOSTER]

fuse map is under the fuse box lid , should be a 15 amp second or third on the left on the long row , fuse box on passenger side front near Battery.

[frodo]

EFI fuse is the normal fuse to remove. Its a circular metal looking fuse. Its marked on the cover of the fuse box. Its held in by a couple of clips