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Generation 5 Overheating


Cassy
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Ok, so I bought my Celica GT-4 March this year, since then I've has mis-firing problems which have been by a new set of leads, the oil light seems to come on when it feels like it which I beileve it to be the sensor and a few other problems which I have been able to sort out.

BUT, ever since buying the car it has appeared to 'overheat'. The temperature sensor goes way of the mark, again when it feels like it. I can be cruising at 60 for example, the temperature is fine and if I want to accelerate hard, the turbo will kick in and the temperature goes right off the scale in about 2 seconds. Then if the car comes to a complete halt, it cmes back down again. Now from this I can't believe the car is actually overheating. I've had a new radiator fitted since buying the car as it was cracked and a new radiator cap as it was missing the valve but the problem still persists.

On the other hand when I switch the car off, it does sound as though there are air bubbles rising in the radiator and when I take the cap off, air is bursting to escape and I fill it up every 2-3 days with water as there is none!

Now being female I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to cars, that's why I'm here! Has anyone had a problem with theirs like I'm having with mine? If so, how'd you solve it?

I was told by the local toyota garage that they wouldn't look at it because the car isn't worth spending the time on as it wasn't worth that much! That to me is an insult as I love the car and its a fantastic ride but if I don't get this problem sorted, I will have to sell it and revert back to my MR2. Someone please help!

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Welcome to TOC Cassy:thumbsup:

Tell the Toyota Garage to get their head out of their bottoms and look at your car - it doesn't matter what it is worth...............IDIOTS they must be.

They do something called a FREE VISUAL SAFETY CHECK at most if not ALL Toyota centres and the very least they can do, is do one of these for you......Note the Word FREE.................

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Welcome to TOC Cassy:thumbsup:

Tell the Toyota Garage to get their head out of their bottoms and look at your car - it doesn't matter what it is worth...............IDIOTS they must be.

They do something called a FREE VISUAL SAFETY CHECK at most if not ALL Toyota centres and the very least they can do, is do one of these for you......Note the Word FREE.................

Hiya, thanks for the welcome!

I know, I've never had a problem with Toyota and parents are trying to get me to buy German! But I refuse so I had the idea of taking it to the local garage. I've got the feeling they don't think it's worth their time and effort ('cos I'm a girl or because of the age of the car I don't know which I believe) and thats why they won't even look, plus I asked them to change the plugs and they refused saying the car wasn't worth the hassle and time and should be scraped!

Can you believe it? Scrap a GT-4? Are they out of their minds!

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Sound like a bunch of clowns to me.......... :yes:

The GT4 is a great car in full working order and OK - If they look at it and THEN advise it's not worth the repair costs, that is one thing - BUT to not even look at it properly is just crazy............

Have you got any pictures you can show us all - we have a bunch of guys on here who will give you loadsa advice when they wake up.

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Sound like a bunch of clowns to me.......... :yes:

The GT4 is a great car in full working order and OK - If they look at it and THEN advise it's not worth the repair costs, that is one thing - BUT to not even look at it properly is just crazy............

Have you got any pictures you can show us all - we have a bunch of guys on here who will give you loadsa advice when they wake up.

Cheers! Will think of taking it elsewhere!

I've had different stories of the turbo being air or water cooled, could you clarify if you know which this is for me please? May help me understand a bit better! lol

Any, pics will be plastered on here monday at the latest!

Until then, thanks for your help!

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you say there is no water after a few days.

1. is there any signs of moisture on the dipstick end.

2.is there any signs of a white/greenish slime on the oil filler cap ( the bottom of it , not the top )

3.is there any visible steam comming from any water pipe and its connection anywhere.

my annalysis is possibly a hair line fracture in the cylinder head , OR it needs bleeding of air .causing water loss and temperature /overheating problems.i may be wrong but i think the gen 5 is self bleeding of air via the header tank.

1 way to cure it and to see if the water levels stay constant , is to take out the thermostat , this will relieve engine pressure and get rid of most of your problems , but will also result in no warm air into the car in winter time.

the needle jumping off the scale in 2 seconds could be a faulty temperature sensor or an electrical problem - you could also wire up the radiator fan so it runs constant , this will keep temps down also.

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I would try a new thermostat. But it sounds like you've cooked it and blown the head gasket too. Perhaps that's why the Toyota dealer wouldn't touch it - with their labour charges replacing the head gasket is going to cost £1500+. Try taking it to an independent garage for their opinion and a quote.

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Probably best to start at the begining. Appologies if i`m repeating any of the above. :)

First check to see if there`s water mixing with the oil. There will be a whitish (Mayonaise) substance on the end of the oil dipstick or filler cap.

Next check for oil in the water. This will show up as oily slime in the water header tank.

If they`re both ok try the following. Fill up the header tank and start the engine. Do NOT replace the cap on the header tank. Is there air bubbling up through the tank? (There shouldn`t be) If all these check out ok, Warm the engine up to operating temperature and check the radiator. It should be the same temperature at the bottom and top. (Watch out for moving parts) If thats ok the thermostat should be ok too. BUT It may not be 100% They`ve been known to jam half way which allows the engine temp to be ok until it`s worked harder then it cant cope and overheats very quickly as the hotter water cant escape from the engine block to the radiator quick enough. As mentioneed either remove the thermostat completely or fit a new one.

If all the above are ok then there is a more serious underlying problem.

Incidentally the CT26 turbo fitted to your car is oil/water cooled. Obviously the engine is water cooled. :D

Hope this helps. :thumbsup:

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:unsure: sorry to say this sounds exactly like the same problem i have just now, i've replaced the radiator, thermostat, rad cap (for a TRD one to see if it would hold the pressure), and even the water pump but it still cooks up on boost.

unfortunately the only thing that mines can be is the dreaded BHG (blown head gasket) and with the description you've given especially the misfire along with the temperature problem it sounds like the same for you.

It isn't the cheapest fix, but is the most worthwhile as it gives you the chance to replce the standard paper gasket with a metal one and ARP head studs :thumbsup: these together will make sure that it doesn't happen again. B)

all you need to do is find a garage you can trust and is going to be competant with the car. i'd ask on the GT4OC www.gt4oc.net where there is one closest to you. at the very most it should cost £900 with a rebuild of the top end :thumbsup:

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which is why toyota built the st205 with a steel head gasket. :yes::thumbsup:

ian in nottingham is the man for this job if you live near there.

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Thanks to everyone that replied!

I've got a head gasket that came as a 'spare part' from another GT4 ST185, not sure if it'll work but if thats what you guys think is the problem then I'll see how much it'll cost to get fitted me thinks!

Unfortunately I'm not near nottingham but if Ian is the man for the job then travelling may have to be done!

I know its not oil mixing with the water and when I put the heater on, it does bring the temp back down but doesn't always work. Also I've had the radiator fan on constant ever since I bought the car because I heard they have a tendancy to overheat.

What I do know is that when I fill the radiator and start the car, it does have air bubbling out for at least ten minutes and I thought to begin with it was an air lock, but air has been bubbling out on a number of occasions and doesn't seem to make a difference, theres still more air to come out! But the heater in the car is still pumping out really hot air which I thought meant there wasn't air in the radiator??? Am I wrong then?

But at the same time the overflow pipe does pump out some considerable water when the car is overheating for real!

Is it worthwhile to ask someone to do a pressure test for me?

Really not sure of what to do now! Even if its the head thats blown and I've got a spare it'll still cost £700 roughly to get fitted wouldn't it?

Thanks for all the help so far, keep it coming if possible!!!!!!

Cassy

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It does seem to suggest head gasket failure. :( Basically it`s a 9 hour job to remove the cylinder head, replace the gasket and replace the head. (According to Autodata) So all you need to do is find a competent garage with reasonable rates and i think you should be able to get the lot done for around the £500 mark. If you were to, as previously suggested, invest in a metal gasket and ARP headbolts it would add a bit to the bill but IMO would still be worth it. :yes:

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if you are taking it to Ian, i've already priced a head gasket replacement, would take him orughly 3-4 day as he sends the head away to get re-conditioned, uses a metal head gasket and ARP head studs and total cost comes to £900 as i mentioned before, if you fork out the extra just now it'll save having to fork out again later for it to get re-done.

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I know its not oil mixing with the water and when I put the heater on, it does bring the temp back down but doesn't always work. Also I've had the radiator fan on constant ever since I bought the car because I heard they have a tendancy to overheat.

Turning on the heater should barely affect engine temperature, unless you have a blockage in the coolant system (e.g. stuck thermostat) preventing the radiator from getting enough flow. There is no way it should overheat with the rad fan on constantly, which also suggests a stuck thermostat might be preventing cooler water from getting back into the engine.

I would try a new thermostat first, or a thorough flushing of the coolant system. However, the air bubbles do suggest head gasket failure. A standard gasket should be sufficient for a standard engine - it will only have blown due to overheating caused by another problem. Metal headgaskets are more fiddly to get sealed properly, and I thought they needed the block to be refaced as well as the head? :unsure: And that can't be done without an engine removal/rebuild.

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Didn`t know about havin to have the block refaced :( Something else to look forward to at rebuild time. :D

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never heard of the block getting refaced, would have thought some emery papr would do the trick

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Thanks for everyone's help since I've posted my problem!

Annoyigly enough, its not overheated since I've posted it but I'm not holding my breath, got it booked in for pressure test and a new thermostat just in case on Wednesday - having some new tyres fitted tomorrow too! Dead excited!

I'll get there even if it kills me - have a fine looking ST185 back on the road!

Thanks again for everyone's help! You guys are fab!

:D

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