Lucida Turbo Problems

[chicane]

Hi there hoping somebody can help me ,i have a 2.2 td lucida j reg ,just been on holiday & while we were away we noticed that if we went over two & a half thousand revs the turbo light which normally goes on to green when in use went on to the yellow button next to it ,the temp started going right up then & the only way to get the yellow light off then would be to switch off & restart the car ,we weren't sure if it was damaging the car or what's causing it as it's still the same if anyone can help that would be great thanks janine.

[stefptycia]

Hi Buddy

Sounds like a turbo actuator problem.

But this should not cause overheating. Check that your radiator is not blocked - just to be sure flush your cooling system out and replace with good quality antifreeze - preferably Totota red

[chicane]

Hi Buddy

Sounds like a turbo actuator problem. 

But this should not cause overheating.  Check that your radiator is not blocked - just to be sure flush your cooling system out and replace with good quality antifreeze - preferably Totota red

←

:D Thanks for that hopefully i'll be able to get it sorted now cheers again, janine x

[mr chris]

Hiya, Strangely enough I have had more or less the same experience and a hell of a story to tell!

I own a 2.4 turbo diesel landcruiser and I bought it from an auction! I expected something to be wrong with the car and was prepared to pay out a few quid to get it going top form, well, on collection from the auction the car felt as if it had only half of the power available and I had only drove about one mile down the road and the darn thing conked out! So I had it towed to a local garage and he managed to get it going again but still with the lack of power. I then took the car to TOYOTA WORLD in Birmingham and was sure they would fix the problem. But alas they scratched their heads hummed and ard tinkered about a bit and and told me in a report that there was no diesel going to the injectors, the shut off valve was not working and that my tyres were damaged! Unfortunatley they could not tell me what was causing the lack of power! I would have thought that anyone who could fix this car would be a Toyota dealer! So I decided to seek out an injection specialist as I assumed a fuel problem. there they replaced the pump and checked the injectors and fitted a new timing belt for me. One would now suppose that my car would now have its extra power but alas! it did not occur. Because the rear oil seal on the crankshaft was leaking and the engine needed a new head gasket the cost of replacing it would be mighty expencive anyway because the gear box would have to be removed I decided to have the entire engine reconditioned. I was told that the old engine block was already rebored to its maximum so I had to buy a new block! They also told me that my turbo charge was worn out and I got them to replace that too. Having had that done it did have more power and I was quite happy with it until the very same day it was due for its 500 mile running in service the car conked out half way to the garage! I had it towed to the garage and they looked at it and although it was hard to start and spluttered after leaving it with them for a couple of days they told me that the car was performing well. It did seem ok too when I collected it but a week later the same thing happened again right outside my house! I tried and tried to start it. I adjusted carefully the fuel shut off valve until finally it started but after about 5 minutes the car decided, as if by magic, to stat to accelarate to full throttle!!! In a step by step panic I turned the engine off at the key, it did not stop!, I removed the key altogether, it did not stop!, I removed the Battery, it did not stop!, I pulled the wires from the diesel pump, it did not stop!

finally I turned the adjusting nut on the fuel shut off valve a half turn and the engine stopped! But I could not start it again!. After charging the Battery and adjusting the adjuster on the fuel cut off valve I finally have it running again but it lacks power more than ever now!!!

And the little yellow amber light comes on almost immediately.

When I first had the car the green turbo light used to come on correctly at around 2100 rpm but after driving it at about 50 mph one day the green turbo light went out and the amber light came on and the car reduced itself to a crawling speed.

I have since had these sequence of lighting events! :

the green turbo light came on and after about 2 mins driving the amber light comes on and the green light goes off. The amber light then stays on all the time.

However after having the engine reconditioned the car seemed to have extra power when the amber light was on!

Now as soon as the engine is started the amber light comes on and stays on and the green turbo light stays off permanantly.

Seeing as the engine has been reconditoned and the pump and turbo have been too it must be something auxillary to the engine. From doing loads of research it seems that it is an engine management feature failing that is a small computer connected to the engine to make it run better! I am in the process of booking in my landcruiser on monday to an engine management diagnostic centre to see if they can fix the problem. I will return here with my results as soon as it is fixed.

The trouble is that my landcruiser is an import and most garages in the uk cringe at the thought of even looking under the bonnet once they know its an import!!! Could someone please shed some light onto this matter as I would dearly love to know why imports are treated as an alien spaceship!

Well I hope this entertained you and your car is up and running soon. All I can advice at the moment is to find a reputable diagnostic centre to find out exactly what the cause is of your distressing flashing light situation as if you start tampering with other components before you get rid of the light problem you may start replacing things that don't need to be in the first place.

[stefptycia]

By ek mate that is a tale

The management system basically is a computer (ECU) and invariably as computers do crashes.

Have you tried disconnecting the Battery and connecting it again??

This procedure can sometimes cure odd thing that happen, alternitavely a new ECU may be required.

[mr chris]

thanks for reading stefptycia, but yes I have disconnected the Battery several times because the car is so hard to start that the Battery needs charging frequently. However I tend to aggree with you that the ECU is liable to be the culprit! Thing is where on earth can I get one. Idealy I would like to rewire the entire management system (preferably kick the thing out all together). Is there any way I can either by-pass it or buy a new wiring loom for the engine? Today I managed to start it again with emmence difficulty and once started it was idling like a dream! But as soon as I try to drive it there is no power hardly at all, the traffic behind me must think I am a totaly useless driver as if I am at say a set of traffic lights once they turn to green by the time I have managed to accelerate to about 10 mph it's time for the lights to change again. If I come to a junction which is even the slightest bit uphill I have to put the drive into neutral and rev it up slightly then put it into drive which ain't good for the gear box and hope this is enough to get me through the junction. It's complete madness.

The engine is run by an electrical fuel pump, the actual throttle is operated by two cables one is connected to the accelerator pedal and I'm not sure where the other one goes but they both connect to this structure which has some sort of relay thing on it and that is connected by wires to the pump itself. It is situated on top of the engine intake manifold and is fed by the turbo charger. If you can imagine, It looks like the engine is managed by a volume control so I suppose the ECU is supposed to sort out the amount of air/fuel ratio and tell the pump what to do with itself. Well I think that cus the engine is reconditioned and the fuel pump and turbo charger have been recond too, new air filter and new fuel filter it has to be this darn thing or the wiring some how. I doubt if it is the wiring itself either shorting or bad connection as I have tapped and messed with all the wires I can find and it don't make any difference. Today I got in contact with Toyota themselves via the phone, and I asked them why is it that nobody wants to touch this car of mine and they said "well it's an import and this is a grey area as far as they are concerned" and they wouldn't explain why! Well there are only 3 things left to do to make this car work and that is either replace this structure which is attached to the manifold and turbo or/and replace the wiring for the engine management system or replace the ECU itself. I really don't care which one or even all of them but nobody will direct me as to where I can get a replacement for any bit of this car! I have seen on the net that you can get a kit to "re-map" the ECU and this is supposed to make the engine run better it looks very similar to the ECU itself but if I got one of these would I be able to replace the ECU with one of these modules or do they have to work together in "harmony" hmmm *sings a song* better than swearing I suppose.

So please, anyone, if you know where to send me to get this work done I would be most gratefull. I live in the birmingham area uk. If in the mean time I do manage to replace these parts I will entertain you all a little more and post my results. I'm sure I will find this amusing .................... one day

[stefptycia]

Hi again

Have a look at this

http://www.ecuexchange.biz/ :D

[mr chris]

Thanks stefptycia,

I have sent my ECU to them directly after phoning them. They tell me it's going to cost me around £300 inc vat!!! I have since checked to make sure there is a supply pump fitted to my motor as the car seems as if it is not getting enough fuel in but there is no supply pump on my car. I also sucked fuel using a clean tube from the pipe that goes to the injector pump this pipe goes directly to the output from the fuel filter and it sucks ok therefore I can rule out a blockage in the fuel system to the injector pump. So the fault lies either after or inside the pump or the ECU is bad or a sensor has failed. Which sensor one asks??? though. I have checked out the throttle position sensor and that seems ok. But I am not sure which other sensors would cause the car to loose so much power and make it so difficult to start. For instance I am pretty sure that the water temp sensor would not make any difference if that failed, I assume all that would do is give a false reading if at all to the temperature gauge. Same as the oil pressure sensor. Havn't got a clue what would happen if the oxygen sensor failed but they are all wired into the darn ECU. I would appreciate any help as to what other sensors there are and what they do and if any go wrong would that cause the engine to lack such vast amounts of power?

many thanks again for the address for ECU repairs

yours

chris.

[stefptycia]

Sorry to hear that you're still having trouble.

I just don't know what to say.

Try this guy

http://www.mad-mechanic.com/

and let me know how you get on

[miyanjee]

Hi ,

Looks like you have two problems, lets start with your temperature as this one is more crucial..have your radiator, hoses, checked for leaks , is your radiator blocked? and finally check the fan viscous coupling / water pump..and thermostat and then at last blame the head gasket .

From my experience most these imports have this sludge build up in the radiator hence blockage due to lack of service...!

Turbo...if u dont have power in your car ..then turbo is at fault...smokey engine,...again turbo is the culprit. but a good mechanic can open the turbo hoses to confirm it.

lights coming on and off...turbo lights could be due to faulty vacuum switches cos these operate the pressure switches which in turn switches on or off the turbo boost led...