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Posted

A most excellent breakdown of my gradually more occurring problem when starting. I found more likely to happen when car interior hot due to a summers day effect. I have an Avensis 1.8 petrol hatchback 1998 with 99300 miles on clock. I bought my switch (refurbished!!) from JAPARTS online for £37 including p&p. No numbers on it but works fine.

My only problem was trying to dismount the 2pin black connector from the switch body. I left this socket mounted whilst removing the switch body, I could then see more clearly how to release the lock on the black socket body.(no damage occurring) to socket.

I found on the old switch it was quite easy to disassemble. The device is very well made and tooled. I believe the only fault was the little springs that hold the contacts in touch with the two sliprings were getting tired. I stretched them all and reassembled switch. Believe I have a fully working unit again. Hindsight is wonderful. I measured the contact resistance on attaining start position and have consistently less than 0.4 ohm.

A good check to test if the switch is weak is to disconnect the starter solenoid trigger connector at back of engine, Remove the 5amp start fuse in the fuse box by your right knee on right-hand drive car, check voltage output at top skt of the fuse seat and observe the voltage. Mine was varying from 0volts up to 12.6volts. (fully charged battery) by multiple operations of key.

I had already had the starter motor unit off and bench checked with old Battery (excellent operation) also had checked slave relay in fuse box in engine compartment.(excellent operation).

I have gone belt and braces and fitted a fused normally open button which fitted in the engine compartment fusebox, between live of Battery and line tap to black wire underneath the slave relay, (just in case) All starter motor solenoids should still have the good old manual button for the odd emergency.

P.S. your photographic skill is a lot better than my shaky efforts.

Best regards

FixitPfil

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Thank you Rvail, I read you article as the symptoms were just as discribed by various contributors, turning the key back to front, one time, then jiggling it about another time, anyhow I ordered the part as you listed, my Toyota is a 1998 2.0 TD Avensis for the record, with just 100K miles on it, & thought that it may have been the whole switch & barrel / lock. but no, after struggling with the 2nd screw on the new switch for about 5 or 10 minutes, put the key in the ignition & hey-presto, first turn & she started perfectly, Just can't thank you enough, Best wishes & regards Nigel

  • 7 months later...
Posted

Hi Everybody , Thank you all for this very informative and interesting forum .

i am a happy owner of a COROLLA (ZZE112L-DLMNKW) , 2000. since three weeks , I am having a probleme with IGNITION KEY STARTER SWITCH 84450-02010 which need to be replaced but unfortuntealt this part is not available in Tunisia.

do you have any sugegstion or advices ( online dealer or direct contact seller )

thank you

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  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have had a lot of help from this forums members regarding starting problems with myToyota Corolla V reg 1999 1.3 E11 for parts renewal, in particular one member garethpaul who has indeed gone out of his way to help me, thank you gareth for pointing the way here, however does anyone know, of or have a link to any site that shows dissassembly and assembly of the specific ignition switch/barrel for the said Toyota which has the same malady that the aforementioned Avensis had before the how to and the fix. help very much appreciated.

  • 6 months later...

  • 4 months later...
Posted

In addition to Rvall's excellent workshop I wanted to add my experience with this switch problem. Like all of you I recently started having startup issues with my Toyota Avensis 2.0 CDX. I started noticing that I had to apply a little extra force when turning the key when starting but I thought this just me trying to be overly gentle. Over a few months this symptom became ever more apparent until one glorious sunny day@ 30 degrees I went to start the car. I turned the key and nothing. Looked like flat Battery so I tested Battery with my multimeter which showed that there was no problem with Battery or starter motor. Cutting long story short I was searching on the internet and came to this post and bingo, my problem all explained so clearly.

Fortunately for me when I took out my ignition switch following Rvall's instructions the ignition switch connector was not damaged in any way (the square hole on top of the white cap which accepts the shaft from the barrel).

Note: It would be wise not to exert extra force turning the key when this problem arises as I believe many of you could have avoided the extra cost of new switch.

Anyway, after extracting the switch I carefully pried open the latches which hole the white cap to the black base. Keep the white side facing down and slowly lift the black base off.

Here is the switch opened up:

You will notice that the copper contacts are clean and shiny. Unfortunately I took the picture after I cleaned the components which had a layer of black oxidation.

I carefully cleaned the copper contacts on the base and the loose steel/nickle contacts with Maplins contact cleaner. I then used 1500 grit paper to sand the contacts to remove all the black oxide layer. I also sanded the steel/nickle contacts.

This next part is quite critical for the switches' longevity. Before assembling you have to apply a suitable lubricant and I search good and hard to find the right great to apply. Here is link to what I used: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/oils/3375925/?sra=pmpn

I used Electrolube CG53A synthetic grease. 

A word to the wise, don't use WD40 or silicon grease. Arching always occurs in these switches and Silicon will turn into silicon carbide within the arc. This is sand and will eventually wear down the contacts. Synthetic grease evaporates.

Apply thin layer of grease to all components and reassemble.

That's it.

My switch is working well so far. Only time will tell. Best thing is I spent only £10 on the grease compared to £81 for a new OEM switch from Toyota. 

 

  

20160729_121120.jpg

Posted

here are a few more pictures:

20160729_121240.jpg

20160729_121325.jpg

20160729_121301_001.jpg

  • 10 months later...
Posted

Thanks RVALL. Your post helped me to solve starting problem in my avensis car. 

Posted
On 6/12/2015 at 6:18 PM, Adel.TN said:

Hi Everybody , Thank you all for this very informative and interesting forum .

i am a happy owner of a COROLLA (ZZE112L-DLMNKW) , 2000. since three weeks , I am having a probleme with IGNITION KEY STARTER SWITCH 84450-02010 which need to be replaced but unfortuntealt this part is not available in Tunisia.

do you have any sugegstion or advices ( online dealer or direct contact seller )

thank you

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Amayama.com

Posted

Glad I found this thread , I am a new owner of a 06 plate Avensis and I had this problem today.

Push started it fine , read this and wiggled the key around and hay presto it burst in to life.

Can somebody help me with the correct part I need to fix or is it a universal part.

Posted

Thanks to Rvall and all others who have contributed to this thread. I had exactly the same problem as described on my 98 Avensis. So I found this thread a while ago and bought the switch off eBay and have been putting it off again and again as it looked quite difficult! However I have just done the job and it was actually rather easy, helped no end by your pictures and clear explanation. So thanks, looking through the thread you have clearly helped lots of people.

  • 8 months later...
Posted

Hi, I am not able to view pictures for 'Ignition switch' replacement process.

Could you pls. send me on hsakarwal@gmail.com

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I'm another one to add my thanks to Rvall.     I have just put in a new switch and the instructions were very useful.   PeterJH 12 June 2017 above mirrors my experience almost exactly including putting the job off.....

I did have  a few 'problems' in moving some of the connectors - for instance, I wasn't able to completely get one connector back on its 'mooring' but I don't think it is a problem; and getting the main connector off and then back into the new switch assembly proved difficult but with a bit of persistence I managed it.  It is all very tight in there!     Like Rvall, one of the screws proved awkward because of its location but it worked in the end - and I didn't have too much difficulty in replacing that screw - I guess we all have different obstacles to tackle. 

I managed to get my switch on eBay for about £18     (21 euros) and have since had a notification you can get it for about £12!   Like Ingm80  (August 18 2016) the fixing on the side were not identical but worked OK - could be slight model variations.

And by the way, my symptoms were very similar to others... sometimes it worked, sometime you jiggled the key and it would start.

 

Again thanks.

 

Posted

day friends, my toyota avensis do not want to start .. my mechanic has put a new radiator since then he does not start anymore .. coils are good the spark there is also gas ... a mechanic says the head gasket is burned but there is no water in the cylinder and machine ... when I start it swings it normally wants to start but unfortunately it does not start .. in the morning I drove it to me mechanic to put a new radiator he has put that new radiator and now if he wants to start then he does not start when I smorgen went there was that machine called hot because my old radiator had holes and was old ... someone could help me with this problem I am from suriname south america please help friends


  • 1 year later...
Posted

Just bought an Avensis 1.8 Estate, 2011, manual, petrol.  110,000 miles, but well serviced and in good condition.  A problem I have is that if I stall it, say in traffic, restarting takes 5 or more secs.  Previous model 2003 Avensis started instantly, foot on clutch, leave in gear, turn key to Off, back to start, 2 secs we are going again.  The 2011 requires foot in clutch, ideally into neutral, turn key to Off and then back to Start, hesitates, then starts.  5 disconcerting secs.  The starter is not turning over in those first few seconds.  Just nothing, no sound, click or cranking.  Like the car is thinking about it.  Its consistent though, not quick sometimes, slower others so I doubt the Ignition Switch and barrel are worn.  I just want to know if this is normal for the model, or if my car has a fault needing to be fixed?  The thread above may suggest I am wrong and I need to replace the Switch.  Or Starter?  Cant be a fuel problem, appears electrical.

  • 4 years later...
Posted

Starting problems ..success ! Very pleased . I followed the picture’s & instructions on here , re changing the worn ignition switch , as when I turned the key to start … silence / nothing . I replaced the relay & thought I’d cured it , but no. So today i changed the ignition switch ( eBay £17:99)problem solved !! .

the only tricky part was the upper retaining screw , as it’s hard to reach & get too .you have to be very careful not to drop & lose the screw . One trick is to insert the key and jiggle it about to properly locate the switch , before !Removed! it in tight .. 

the post on here is great & helped loads & saved a big garsge bill 

  • Like 2

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