New Stereo

[ssk2]

Hi guys,

Followed the various howtos and guides on the forums to fit an after market radio to my Yaris, many thanks to anyone who helped write those!

There are a few issues which I was hoping you all could help me with:

- After I turn the ignition off, take the key out, I hear a beeping noise (3 lots of beeps) and then silence. I think this is probably my headunit (Sony CDX-F7550S), can anyone confirm that this should happen? [Answered]

- When I connected all the connectors using the adaptor, there was one plug that didn't go into anything, with two wires in it, I'm guessing this is for the controls at the top next to the trip screen, so I hope thats fine to leave it loose?

- Sound quality via Aux-In isn't too great, I hear a hissing sound when my mp3 player has stopped playing. I know the mp3's themselves are fine - being alt-preset--extreme, so I wonder if it is my headunit's aux in connection, its connected firmly, and CD / Tuner sounds great, no hissing. [Answered]

- I think I need to earth the unit, but it didn't come with any leads, so I've left it as is, is it necessary to earth it and if so, what should I use? [Answered]

- Finally, probably the one that needs addressing most, the hazard light button and the rear demister button don't work anymore. I'm not sure why, but when I had a look after realising they weren't working, the plug was loose (after driving around for a bit previously). I plugged it back in, but they're still not working. I've had a look in the fuse box, for the two circuits - emergency lights and demister (27 and 15 I think) but those fuses both look fine. Can anyone suggest what might be wrong?

A lot there...fresh off the press, heh.

Thanks in advance!

[Ryan1985]

After I turn the ignition off, take the key out, I hear a beeping noise (3 lots of beeps) and then silence. I think this is probably my headunit (Sony CDX-F7550S), can anyone confirm that this should happen?

This the only 1 I can help you with I'm afraid but this is normal as all Sony units do this to remind you to take the face-off bit off!

[ssk2]

Ah! Right, I see, that sorts that point :).

Cheers!

[Woody27]

- Sound quality via Aux-In isn't too great, I hear a hissing sound when my mp3 player has stopped playing. I know the mp3's themselves are fine - being alt-preset--extreme, so I wonder if it is my headunit's aux in connection, its connected firmly, and CD / Tuner sounds great, no hissing.

Only one i can answer! I use an AUX cable to connect my Laptop up to my stereo (as now) to play music through. I used to have a cheap AUX cable that came with a portable CD player ages ago! It used to crackly and spit due to the poor connections between cable and plug. The best way to get rid of this is buy yourself a quality gold plated cable! If this doesnt help check the plugs on the back of the HU to check they make full contact with the sockets! (the bits around the male connectors sometimes need compressing a bit so the metal rubs with the socket when pushed on!)

Hope that helps!

[ssk2]

Hm, possibly the connection, its a gold plated cable, so I'm not sure if that should be the problem.

Thanks, I'll try it that tomorrow when its light.

Just thought of another question I had :

- The Autoleads double din conversion fascia thingy, it leaves my headunit able to slide forwards? I wonder if that is normal? It stays in the slot when driving because of the angle, and gravity keeping it in, but there are no mounts or anything to screw it onto?

[Ryan1985]

The Autoleads double din conversion fascia thingy, it leaves my headunit able to slide forwards? I wonder if that is normal? It stays in the slot when driving because of the angle, and gravity keeping it in, but there are no mounts or anything to screw it onto?

You got the metal cage in? Does the metal cage stay in okay? If it does you need to bend bits on the cage so your CD player stays in the cage!

[dicey2k]

Yeah like Ryan said...

I have the same double DIN unit and i can assure you that my headunit is very secure, takes a good while to get it out completely without the headunit extraction keys! I suggest the same, make sure all the clips are bent out so they grip the lip on the DIN unit, that way the cage should hold the headunit securly!

Also in regards to earth, unless your headunit specifically says it needs earth, then the wiring loom ground connection (Black) should be sufficient!

[ssk2]

Ah, cheers, I see.

Anyone know what to do about my hazard lights / demister? The demister actually works, the light just doesn't come on..., but nothing for the hazard lights.

I might have to take it into the dealership, but I'd prefer not to! They might charge me because I took the dash apart myself...

[dicey2k]

Ah, cheers, I see.

Anyone know what to do about my hazard lights / demister? The demister actually works, the light just doesn't come on..., but nothing for the hazard lights.

I might have to take it into the dealership, but I'd prefer not to! They might charge me because I took the dash apart myself...

You might have done the same as me, take off the heater control panel part of the dash and check the connections on the back of the switches, they sometimes become dislodged when taking the dash apart to get a radio in, i know because it happened to me!! Just re-seat the connectors to be sure. Also check your fuses again!

Also, beeps on the sony headunits can be disabled in the menus but are perfectly normal, just to remind you not to leave your faceplate on!!

[seveer unaek]

What MP3 player do you use on your AUX-In? Does it have the option of a Line-In?

If not, then the quality won't be as good and you'll need to turn the volume down on your MP3 and up on your Head Unit for the crackling to stop.

Also, make sure your MP3's are encoded to 192kbps as a minimum... any lower isn't of a good enough quality and will cause crackling.

[ssk2]

dicey - I'll try reseating the connectors later.

Seveer - all my mp3's are pretty high quality (192 + ), and my mp3 player has a line-out option, so I'm not sure, I'll try pushing in the phono connectors some more. Btw, its a Sony NW-HD5

Thanks all

[seveer unaek]

Hmm, should be ok then, just make sure it's set to line-out and that a decent quality cable is used.

[ssk2]

Okay, just had a play with the radio - solved that problem. The cable's position didn't seem to make any difference, nor did my mp3 player - it was actually DSO on the stereo. You don't notice it when CD's are playing because it turns it on and off with each track, but with an aux-in, its always on - turning DSO off made it sound good and proper!

Used the metal tabs to hold the bracket in place, its quite firm, maybe about a mil of movement, so its pretty good.

I took the dash out again, and as usual it was a right ***** to remove the connectors. This time however, I had a look at the sockets themselves. Turns out the one for the rear demister and hazard lights had a bent socket. I think this was done by the bods at the Toyota Dealership when they serviced it, because I remember it being near impossible to remove the connector before...

[ssk2]

AAAAAAAAAAH!

Relief :D.

I was a bit worried I'd have to march into the Toyota dealership looking like a muppet...but not so anymore!

I bent the pin back with a pair of needle nose pliers, and it works as new when reconnected :).

Last question I have is, what is the best place to run a cable out for my mp3 player?

I have it running round the back and coming out drivers side, top left, is there any better place?

[dicey2k]

Depends where you want to locate the player!! If its going on the drivers side then leave it, if not i'd run it the other way!

All my cables come out the passenger side to reduce the risk of them getting damaged when people are sat there, as people rarely do! Not that it would anyway because its all properly routed, plus its easier to get at if needs be because there's no pedals etc in the way!

[ssk2]

Mm yeh, I think I'll prolly leave it as it is, I can always tuck it away if its not being used.

Does anyone know how hard it is to install new Speakers? I've read the guide, but that doesn't say much about difficulty.

The guys in the audio shop down the road are charging £95 to install new front components, wire up my rear Speakers and install a sub under the seat, does that sound right?

[Clueless]

Don't know about fitting front components or sub as have never got around to fitting them(doubt i ever will really) but as far as rear speakers(parcel shelf job) it wasn't much hassle. Ran the wires under the rear seats,up under the handbrake housing up to the main console. Soldering comes in handy or you can get seperate wiring/splitters. I'm sure theres another post around here with more information which may have more information for you. :)

The post is Speakers(Headunit output??)

[seveer unaek]

£95?!??! DIY! It's a very easy job... iv got a guide for the door Speakers, HERE and the dash one's are very easy... just pop the covers, un-screw, un-clip the wires, re-wire, re-screw, then put cover back on.

Sub is easy too...seat out (or not, not totally necessary, but it's easier) velcro the bottom to the carpet, unplug the Negative terminal of your Battery, connect a positive power cable to the positve Battery terminal with appropriate fuse, push it through the rubber grommet behind the Battery on the bulk head (where the wiring loom is) keep pushing and pull it out behind the glovebox... run it across the back of the dash, past the driver, under the door sill (just clips off) and connect to the sub.

Connect an earth cable to any bolts nearby that ground to the chassis.

Connect an RCA (red/white phono) cable to your headunit output, run the same way as the power cable to your sub and plug in.

Connect a remote turn-on lead to the headunit.

Check all connections and fuses, then re-connect your negative battery terminal, switch the car power on (ACC or engine on) and run a test CD.

You should put the volume of your stereo to maximum, then adjust the gain and frequency of the sub until it's the highest you'll have it without distortion... make sure everythings where you want it, cable tie all cables, put your seat back in if you took it out and there you go... you have a sub easily installed in no more than an hour.

In terms of your MP3 cable... iv run mine out by the side of the headunit into the passenger cubby hole where iv got my MP3 player mounted on a sat-nav cradle! (Iv got standard HU tho, may look odd with new HU)

[ssk2]

Seveer - that sounds very doable actually. I'm somewhat of a n00b so I'll give it a go when my sub gets here.

I was looking at getting component Speakers - would these be harder to install? I'd have to run a wire from the door speaker to the tweeter?

The guy at the shop said that they would put the tweeter where the dash speaker was before.

Also, with all the various wiring for the sub, does it come with the necessary cables + fuse? Would any soldering be involved? I'm not too great at soldering..

Thanks a bunch for your help so far!

[seveer unaek]

Seveer - that sounds very doable actually. I'm somewhat of a n00b so I'll give it a go when my sub gets here.

I was looking at getting component speakers - would these be harder to install? I'd have to run a wire from the door speaker to the tweeter?

The guy at the shop said that they would put the tweeter where the dash speaker was before.

Also, with all the various wiring for the sub, does it come with the necessary cables + fuse? Would any soldering be involved? I'm not too great at soldering..

Thanks a bunch for your help so far!

You'd only need to solder if you were slpicing cables... but you're not, so no, no soldering involved.

The sub should come with the cables, yes. Mine did anyway... if not, kits are about £20.

The components will be harder to fit, yes, but not too bad... just find a decent place for the juncion/step box (in the door i think should be ok) then run the cable through the rub passage in the door into the dash, then grab it and pull it up to where the tweeters are going.

You'll need to make custom holders for the tweeters if they're going in the dash as they aren't 10cm so won't fit... MDF cut to the right size should be fine.

[ssk2]

Ah, cool, that sounds good. I'll prolly fit the Speakers then this weekend. I might not bother going for components in that case? It''ll be easier to just get coaxial Speakers for door + dash, and the loss in sound quality won't be too bad?

[seveer unaek]

Ah, cool, that sounds good. I'll prolly fit the speakers then this weekend. I might not bother going for components in that case? It''ll be easier to just get coaxial speakers for door + dash, and the loss in sound quality won't be too bad?

Iv got coaxials in door and dash and it sounds the frickin' nuts.

I can't see how components would make it much better... unless you had a big sub or bass-heavy Speakers, the tweeters on components can make things a bit too bright. Coaxials are great for the job. Much easier to install too.

[ssk2]

Sounds good. (No pun intended)

Do you know what depth the Speakers in the doors are? I've tried searching but haven't found anything yet, and I'd rather not have to take out the door frame more than once! I see a nice pair of Speakers but I'm not sure if they'll fit depth wise...

[seveer unaek]

Sounds good. (No pun intended)

Do you know what depth the speakers in the doors are? I've tried searching but haven't found anything yet, and I'd rather not have to take out the door frame more than once! I see a nice pair of speakers but I'm not sure if they'll fit depth wise...

Not sure im afraid, but the doors can hold a fair bit of depth.

[ssk2]

Ah, fair enough, cheers for all your help so far man, you've been a great help!

See you around!