Gen 6 Rear Brakes

[Handson29]

Got back from a motorway trip today to hear my rear wheels are sounding like i have metal on metal...........I've not noticed a problem with the brakes so wasn't thinking my pads were worn out but that is exactly what it sounds like. How long do pads normally last, i know that is a bit like how long is a piece of string but are we talking 10K or more like 20K??? I've had the car for 6k and admittely don't know when they were last changed. Lastly, is it a simple job? Bit nervous about taking it apart which probably means i shouldn't! What am i likely to get charged for a garage to replace the pads? I need it done in a hurry so as i need the car for work so it may well have to be a kwikfit job. Is that a bad idea????? Any help or advice greatly received.

thanks

Iain

[mikeb]

Rears should last 30k miles or more. Easy enough to change, especially if you've ever changed a set of pads before. If you've worn right through the pad though, the discs might be scored as well. These are fairly simple to change as well.

[GT4 BOOSTER]

30 minute job mate. piece o cake. good pads last , cheap ones dont so you cant say how long they will last really

[daktari]

Rear brake pads should last 20k easily, but as you say- your not sure when they were changed. Easy enough job to change them. Undo the bottom 12 mm bolt and the caliper swings up over the carrier. (Assuming they are similar to gen 5 rears. You might be lucky enough to get away with out having to replace the discs. The first bit of disc to backing pad contact usually occurs on the outer raised lip. (Again assuming there is a lip on the disc) Whip it off and dive in there.

[Hrun]

I do believe that the pads are designed to become noisy to let you know they need changing before they fail completely.

HTH Giles

[Handson29]

thanks for the pointers guys. Just been digging through the paperwork i got with the car which includes all the receipts for every service it's had and low and behold the rear pads were changed only 2000 miles before i got it which means they have only done 8000 miles............something doesn't add up then! I don't drive that badly and there is nothing wrong with the fronts.

[mikeb]

thanks for the pointers guys. Just been digging through the paperwork i got with the car which includes all the receipts for every service it's had and low and behold the rear pads were changed only 2000 miles before i got it which means they have only done 8000 miles............something doesn't add up then! I don't drive that badly and there is nothing wrong with the fronts.

Well, you need to look at them and confirm what the noise is. It is obvious if the pads are worn out. Maybe the pads were changed 8k miles ago but the discs weren't. What tends to happen with the rears is that they see so little use that the disc corrodes and then wears a ridge in the pad. I found that I had to replace my rear pads and discs, even though there was plenty of material left on both. It is quite normal to hear the pads brushing against the discs as you are driving at slow speeds, and corrosion on the discs can make it sounds worse.

Worst case - it could be something else like a really knackered wheel bearing.

[martin_longbow]

While we are on the subject can anyone tell me what side of the brake hub does the handbrake adjuster sit. I am referring to the threaded bar type of thing at the bottom of the handbrake shoes. Rotates one way gets longer, rotates other way gets shorter

I stripped mine down weeks ago after taking photos, I also have a Chiltons manual. I have the JDM 2.0l 3s-fe version (a funny fish I think) Now having spent weeks painting back plates callipers replacing CV boots, bearings etc I started the rebuild tonight. None of my photos or the manual actually tell me to what side the threaded end of the bar should go, should it point to the front of the car or the back? I am assuming it is not sided and have built the offside rear with the threaded end pointing to the front. Anyone else know different.

Oh and the blinking centre of the new disks is not going over my hub centre, it just seems a little tight. Will have to attack with a linisher tomorrow. Sorry I have plenty pics but it's too darn late to be uploading them as I can only post pice that have a url.

[GT4 BOOSTER]

as far as iknow the handbrake ajusters are inside each rear hub, access is gained through taking out the ruber seal located on the hubs rear and using a flatblade screwdriver turn the adjuster accordingly with the handbrake off

[Leeky]

Yeah you have a handbrake adjusted on both sides

I find it easier to remove the caliper and disc to adjust mine

[mikeb]

Yeah you have a handbrake adjusted on both sides

I find it easier to remove the caliper and disc to adjust mine

Aren't they self-adjusting?

[martin_longbow]

Yep thanks

I know where they are and what they do. A said in my post I stripped the whole unit down weeks ago and on a rebuild (cause I renewed the rear hubs, calliper refurbed seals remobed etc) none of my photos sho which sote of the hub the adjusting past of the mechanisim sits. The mechanisim is self adjusting if built correctly. No sweat I will figure out eventually.

The problem I have with not using photos in my posts!

[mikeb]

Yep thanks

I know where they are and what they do. A said in my post I stripped the whole unit down weeks ago and on a rebuild (cause I renewed the rear hubs, calliper refurbed seals remobed etc) none of my photos sho which sote of the hub the adjusting past of the mechanisim sits. The mechanisim is self adjusting if built correctly. No sweat I will figure out eventually.

The problem I have with not using photos in my posts!

Yeah I thought you knew, I was just a bit miffed by Leeky saying he adjusted his. I'm not sure if the self adjuster is the same as the gen 5, and I didn't take photo's when I did mine, but I will see if I can find any diagrams in my manual.

[Handson29]

thanks for the tips, i'll get the wheels off at the weekend. You've hit a nerve with the wheel bearing as when i test drove it, i thought i heard something like that but they came up with nothing in the service before i bought it. It's been fine since. I took a look at the discs briefly with a torch and a floodlight and they looked fine, couldn't see any grooves or damage. I'll drop the wheel off and take a look, really appreciate all the advice as i'm a novice to all this,

thanks again

Iain

[martin_longbow]

Consulted my autodata CD (duh forgot I had it, must be an age thing) Anyway if you were following this thred I can now confirm that the adjusting (threaded) side of the rear handbrake adjuster is the opposite side from the shoe with the handbrake leaver on it. So it points to the front of the car.

Thanks for checking, and to Mike for trying to fish some diagrames out.

thanks for the tips, i'll get the wheels off at the weekend. You've hit a nerve with the wheel bearing as when i test drove it, i thought i heard something like that but they came up with nothing in the service before i bought it. It's been fine since. I took a look at the discs briefly with a torch and a floodlight and they looked fine, couldn't see any grooves or damage. I'll drop the wheel off and take a look, really appreciate all the advice as i'm a novice to all this,

thanks again

Iain

Dude if you need bearings let me know and I can advise. Mt T wanted too much cash. Saved £ 40 quid on the fronts and I found the Mr Tpriced £163 + vat rear bearing for £90 + vat

[Handson29]

Got the callipers off and the pads, turning the disc still made the scraping noise. I've taken the discs off as well and the handbrake braking shoes are disintergrating around the edges which i guess may well have been collecting betweens shoe and disc and making a noise. One of the brake pads has worn at an angle and it down enough for the metal wear guide to be scraping the disc. So new set of pads it is and i'm a bit concerned about the handbrake shoes as well.

[daktari]

Got the callipers off and the pads, turning the disc still made the scraping noise. I've taken the discs off as well and the handbrake braking shoes are disintergrating around the edges which i guess may well have been collecting betweens shoe and disc and making a noise. One of the brake pads has worn at an angle and it down enough for the metal wear guide to be scraping the disc. So new set of pads it is and i'm a bit concerned about the handbrake shoes as well.

You may as well replace them while you`ve got them off. Not expensive. I cant remember where i got mine from but they were only about £20 or thereabouts.

[martin_longbow]

Yep pretty much as dak says. If you have already stripped the disk off you might as well put clean shoes on. If the shoes are not right then you are only going to get a temporary fix at best. Remember to slacken off the handbrake cable adjustment for an easier build and to get your adjustment at the shoe right

[Handson29]

Yep pretty much as dak says. If you have already stripped the disk off you might as well put clean shoes on. If the shoes are not right then you are only going to get a temporary fix at best. Remember to slacken off the handbrake cable adjustment for an easier build and to get your adjustment at the shoe right

Could only get the rear pads yesterday and not the shoes. As i needed the car i put it back together. I know how to take it apart now and once you know what you are doing it is very simple! Little tip, not sure if anyone has mentioned it but the disc wouldn't come off until i discovered that sticking a screwdriver through the inspection hole and slackening off the handbrake worked a treat.

I've attached a photo of the offside rear pad after 8K miles................the ones one the nearside were no where near as bad so looks like i've got a problem with the balancing of the rear brakes. Any pointers on what causes that?

[daktari]

Most likely to be a bit of wear in the slider assembly. It appears to be allowing the calliper to twist slightly when the brakes are applied. I find it hard to believe they`ve only done 8k. Rears aren`t the hardest worked brakes in the world.

[Handson29]

Most likely to be a bit of wear in the slider assembly. It appears to be allowing the calliper to twist slightly when the brakes are applied. I find it hard to believe they`ve only done 8k. Rears aren`t the hardest worked brakes in the world.

well i have the service reports from the previous owner and it says rear pads changed due to excessive wear at 63,000, i bought it at 65,000 and it now has it on 71,000 so it seems like they have only done 8k!

[daktari]

How worn were the other three pads. Could be a sticking piston...

[Handson29]

Looks like it could well have been a sticking piston, seems to be ok now however i think it best to change the handbrake shoes but appear to be having difficulty getting them, tried two different places and neither had a listing for the part so said they couldn't even order them. Suggested it may be a main dealer only part. I tried the nearest dealer and he couldn't be specific without the chassis number which i didn't have at the time but thought they were like 40-50 quid for a set. Sounded a tad pricey. anyone help with where i can get them?

[GT4 BOOSTER]

http://www.brakesinternational.co.uk/ may do em or http://www.tcbparts.co.uk/

[daktari]

Looks like it could well have been a sticking piston, seems to be ok now however i think it best to change the handbrake shoes but appear to be having difficulty getting them, tried two different places and neither had a listing for the part so said they couldn't even order them. Suggested it may be a main dealer only part. I tried the nearest dealer and he couldn't be specific without the chassis number which i didn't have at the time but thought they were like 40-50 quid for a set. Sounded a tad pricey. anyone help with where i can get them?

I`m 95% sure i got mine from Partco Automotive (before they were taken over by Unifart.) and i`m pretty sure they were only about 20-25 squids :) I know for a fact i never got them from MrT. Only ever bought 4 things from them. And that nearly bankrupted me.