2e Carburettor

[Ricardo C.]

as to the question of the 2E to 4EFE/4EFTE swap, it's pretty straight foward practically a drop in look for and engine out of a front cut so you get everything then after the mechanical stuff, it's off to the auto electrican for wiring

some sucker fellows here town, left a 4A-FE it in a corolla DX the engine bay... but the only driving it does now is been pushed in a back yard ... and seems they had to cut shorter, the steering wheel column, for some reason ...

[Zapper]

HI,mine old corolla is almost the same--but is ee80liftback,but with the same 2e engine. I love this car--very nippy and the engine is great :D .What do you mean about there is no soft acceleration of your car?when i push the pedal hard,there is a little moment of thinking from the car and then accelerates fast,but that thinking is because of the carb. and i think it's normal.THAT'S THE MOST RELIABLE CAR I'VE EVER HAD!

Hi, yes is what you allready said! a little moment of thinking from the car, then it goes fast! but this issue causes a loss of power when i ride on that accelerator position, too unconfortable for passengers, that allways feeling a tremble of the engine (the problem of thinking).

One time i went to toyota service and i ask for this issue, and they said that probably is a faulty vacuom pump, or bad ignition time adjust. the second cause should only attibuted if my car has no automatic ignition time set, but it has. so i gess it is the vacuom pump.

Your car have a difficult at startup when it's engine is in normal temperature?

Distributor vacuum advancer units have a tendency to fail (the diaphragm between the sub and main advance capsules splits). This often causes high fuel consumption by allowing fuel to be sucked out of the advancer port of the carburettor through the main advance pod, through the split diaphragm into the sub-advance pod then through the vacuum hose into no.2 cylinder. Also the mechanical advance mechanism has a tendency to seize up, providing no centrifugal advance. Either or both of these events will cause improper ignition timing.

sorry for taking so loooooong time to give a feedback about this issue.

What you said is new for me, thanks for it! ;)

I also suspect from the distributor, about some capacitor placed externally next to the cover.

[reka]

Hello, just bought a 1991 Corolla sedan 1.3 12v, the first 330 kilometers the car spent about 5.5 L/100Km.

I dont remember anything happening with the engine, but right after that the car just started to spend almost like double that but no less than 8 L/100 Km.

From what I can see, is that while the engine is on, the rpm its higher than it should be, but as soon as I press the accelerator pedal lightly the rpm goes down to normal.

Is there another name of term for Distributor vacuum advancer unit? Where is this located ?

Also where can the ignition time be adjusted (at 15-16 degrees,not at 8-10 as stated earlier in this post) and how ?

Thank you

[Parts-King]

Yes,STARLET is lighter than COROLLA. :D I know that Starlet /1990/ is 780kg..The COROLLA weight i 880kg..

Thanks to mr-g for the interesting information.I see that he has HIACE and i wanna ask him what engine the hiace has and which year is manufactured?It's interesting for me because my dad has HIACE 2.4D and it's 380000km.now. and it's THE MOST RELIABLE BUS i've ever known.Has anyone watched the "top gear show" few years ago when they were trying to destroy an old HILUX 2.4D?Very interesting.Sorry for my bad inglish. :!Removed!:

The Hilux clips are unbeatable, and did Toyota a power of good, as did the North Pole challenge

Click here to see the Hilux, when re-directed, choose "Stunts" and "Indestructable Truck"

Kingo

[reka]

Hello there,

I have a 1991 Corolla with a 2E engine.

The mileage I get from it is 33 mpg mixed driving and 28 urban, not good at all.

After I start the engine the rpm is high, but after like a minute it stabilizes to normal.

As soon as I start driving the car, whenever I stop the car and leave it idling the rpm is at the same level as it is in the beginning, but when I lightly press the accelerator pedal it goes down to normal. But as soon as I start driving again the problem remains.

The engine probably works with the choke On, all the time, no wonder the consumption is that high.

Another thing when I start the engine which has been previously warmed up and God forbid drive by pressing the accelerator pedal lightly the first minute, the engine WILL turn off and I cant start it up for hours.

Otherwise the Corolla is great.

Thank you in advance

[Zapper]

Hello there,

I have a 1991 Corolla with a 2E engine.

The mileage I get from it is 33 mpg mixed driving and 28 urban, not good at all.

After I start the engine the rpm is high, but after like a minute it stabilizes to normal.

As soon as I start driving the car, whenever I stop the car and leave it idling the rpm is at the same level as it is in the beginning, but when I lightly press the accelerator pedal it goes down to normal. But as soon as I start driving again the problem remains.

The engine probably works with the choke On, all the time, no wonder the consumption is that high.

Another thing when I start the engine which has been previously warmed up and God forbid drive by pressing the accelerator pedal lightly the first minute, the engine WILL turn off and I cant start it up for hours.

Otherwise the Corolla is great.

Thank you in advance

Hi! your carb should be different of my car, when you startup the engine in cold condition what is the rpm (choke on)? On my car it starts at 2500rpm.

[reka]

When its cold the choke turns on automatically, stays on for about 40-50 sec. and turns off after that, but not for too long.

As soon as start driving while the engine is still cold and after the engine is warmed up, say id drive 25 mph in city, and I would stop and let it idle the choke is still on.

It is real loud, I'd say around 1500-1700 rpm (my corolla doesn't have rpm meter).

It will go off only when I press the gas pedal, but it has to be a light press, only a very light tap on the accelerator pedal will disengage the clutch, if I press just a little harder the rpm will remain way too high for idle.

Any Idea???

[Zapper]

When its cold the choke turns on automatically, stays on for about 40-50 sec. and turns off after that, but not for too long.

As soon as start driving while the engine is still cold and after the engine is warmed up, say id drive 25 mph in city, and I would stop and let it idle the choke is still on.

It is real loud, I'd say around 1500-1700 rpm (my corolla doesn't have rpm meter).

It will go off only when I press the gas pedal, but it has to be a light press, only a very light tap on the accelerator pedal will disengage the clutch, if I press just a little harder the rpm will remain way too high for idle.

Any Idea???

hum, i think that your carb is aisan k. it as the accelerator cable connected to the left or right side of the carb? (watching from the front of the car to the engine bay)

if the carb is an aisan V, like mine, i suspect it could be a problem with some vacuom diaphragm that controls the deacceletation system.