Your Thoughts On These Mods....

[Jimlad]

Turbo

Intercooler

Manifold

Curious as to what you think of the above? What kind of BHP figures should I expect with those along with a fuel pump/larger injectors + a remap?

Fair enough I do have a downpipe already, but I could do with a new one as mine is all cracked and welded up!!

I don't want to go for engine internals at the moment (forged pistons, head gasket), so I would assume if I did I would be able to increase the power even more with the above? Or does this simply prevent engine going boom? Would I need to go HG, Forgies with the above mods?

Any advice appreciated!! (Jesus!.... :) )

[Jimlad]

link

Sod that..... I want the above + intercooler + remap !!! ( cheers Msherry! )

[Jesus]

Be very careful when picking your turbo.

You need to plan right now where you want to go with it.

Do you want a car for the drag strip, which will do a 1/4 in the 11's... or do you want a very fast car for the road?

Drag strip prepared cars usually come on to power very late in the rev range and up until about 4500 revs you'll be very flat. Once on full boost though it will be as quick as you like.

Personally, I'd sooner go for a very fast road car, with plenty of torque and responsiveness.

Ignore what bhp figures you get given to make your decision on... find out where abouts in the rev range that power is. Makes one hell of a difference. Speccing up the right turbo for you is science in itself, and not a decision to rush into.

With regards to the intercooler... yes. I noticed a significant difference with the HKS intercooler I have, and that is only tube and fin design instead of bar and plate. Bar and plate has more thermal mass and can dissipate the heat quicker.

Admittedly, our custom pipes made the most difference, due to airflow, pressure drop resilience and relocation of the BOV to near the throttle body (no need to re-pressurise intercooler when going back on boost after it's all been dumped).

Also, don't forget that the GReddy intercooler may be optimally sized for the CT26 or CT20 turbo... but beyond that you may need a larger core (difficult on MR2 I know without going boot mounted).

I'd certainly recommend using water/methanol injection. Paul Port's kit is amazing. Bibbs has been singing it's praises for years... and I eventually got round to getting it fitted by Paul. I'm currently running 1.3bar on the stock turbo (CT20b)... and my throttle body charge temps never exceed 30oC no matter how long I've been on boost. You know what your car runs like on a cold, misty night when the air's dense?... well imagine that all the time when on boost.

I can't emphasize enough the importance of cooling.

With regards to the manifold and downpipe (more so the manifold) you need to find out what affect it has on the power/torque band.

Also, check the history of products to find out if there are any nightmare stories. I've heard of a few of eBay that end up cracking pretty quickly. Obviously it's stainless, and hence more prone to crack around the welds than the stock cast iron manifold.

You'd probably be better off taking the stock manifold off and having it polished and ported. Obviously, you only make the best out of this work if you've also had the head done, and the inlet manifold.

With regards to forgies etc, as long as you're keeping your charge temps low, there's no reason to suspect standard piston meltdown (as long as fuelling is also set up right). Obviously you'll be safer, and will be able to run more boost with forged pistons and uprated conrods... but it's not quite as straight forward as that.

If you're planning on going above probably 350bhp then it's certainly worth pricing up.

That's just a taster for you anyway Jim... obviously there's a lot more to consider...

[Jimlad]

As always... cheers matey!!

I don't want a crazy drag car... but a VERY fast road car!

[msherry21]

Does Paul have a website for his water injection, wouldn't mind a look at that.

cheers.

[Jesus]

Does Paul have a website for his water injection, wouldn't mind a look at that.

cheers.

Don't think he does mate.

Ben hooked me up with his contact details and I went from there.

I think the single pump kit is £280 and the dual pump kit is £320.

The dual pump can obviously generate more pressure, which produces finer/better atomisation of the water/methanol mix... and prolongs the life of the individual pumps by reducing the stress on any one. Kind of load balancing too.

I went for the dual pump.

[Ryan1985]

Interesting read guys!

Sorry, I can't contribute anything useful apart from telling Jim to do it!

[Jimlad]

water injection would defo be something I'd go for... once I get a better intercooler

[KiwiMR2]

link

Sod that..... I want the above + intercooler + remap !!! ( cheers Msherry! )

Bah......Im not a big fan of the CT27, still not enough making decent figures IMO. A new steel wheeled CT20B would be a better upgrade I reakon ;)

Some great pointers from Jesus too!!

Cheers

KiwiMR2

[gump2000]

jaxx can make you a methanol injection system. thats if your not already aware of it give him a tinkle

[Bibbs]

Ben hooked me up with his contact details and I went from there.

:D

the dual pump is DEFO the way to go. At Nur on a warm ish day (and altitude) I couldn't get over 1 bar without WI (and intake temps were insane).

Add the WI in and 1.1/1.2 bar was constant and intake temps were halved. But I was going through about 5 litres of water a lap

I then was going for the same IC as Kevin, followed by the Supra turbo (CT26a) that I had for more flow .. thought the IC and turbo would have pushed me to 300 and then it would have been blown HG and new injector time .

[Stu8]

what do you rate of the erl's water injection kit?

[boundsw]

When I blew my turbo, I though sod it, im gonna upgrade, and had to go through the very process that you guys are discussing.

Do I want massive lag and massive power, or little lag, and 'constant' power.

The Guys at Turbo Technics were very helpful in helping me choose a Turbo, and they advised on a stg 1/2 for lower lag, but that these turbos are very capable of creating good boost. anything above that would cause much more lag.

I opted for a stg1, as I had no other cooling extras, (intercooler / water injection) and was not disapointed, with the bigger compressor size I noticed a power increase straight away, even when running stock boost.

But as Jesus says, there is alot to concider, and im no expert, but I would defo not go for a massive turbo for road use, it would be all or nothing unpradictable power ! (The upgrades normally do away with the twin entry feature, which gives you more of a 'hit' when the boost comes in, rather than a smooth increase).

Alot of people also report good results from using nitrous with turbos, as the cooling effects of this also contribute to the power increase, so a 50 hit, would give you more like 70 horses.

Another thing to remeber is that bigger / upgraded turbos will more than likely use steel internals, which are heavery, and take longer to spool, but stronger than the ceramic material used in the stock ct26/20

with an average size turbo, intercooler, water inhection, decat, and a good map i recon you would'nt be disapointed, and as jesus says, fogies and steel cons etc are for bigger power........ so you need to decide what the aim is

[Bibbs]

I've only used the PP WI kit, and it's great ..

mappable, dual pump, tuneable .. does everything it should :)

[Stu8]

Doubt Paul would come up North just to fit my kit though. :P

[Bibbs]

Nah, but the kit is a doddle to fit.

[Stu8]

does anyone still have his No.?

just tried a search on here and then on google and still no joy :(

[Bibbs]

Drop Rogue systems a line, I think they'll still speak to him on a regular basis ..

[Stu8]

doh i've just been on the phone to them about something else aswell. lol

[jaxx]

jaxx can make you a methanol injection system. thats if your not already aware of it give him a tinkle

dont tinkle on me!

im halfway through my prototype system (as such) :P

[Stu8]

I take it your just going to have a switch; to turn it on when needed i.e nurburg?

[Bibbs]

you don't want an ON/OFF switch in the cabin, because at idle the pump will flow too much and then pool water in the IC pipes.

hydro lock is not a good thing.

you need a simple pressure switch set to 5/6 psi .. so it'll kick in then.

[jaxx]

thats what i use although ive got 2, one switch set at around 8psi, the other is set around 12psi for a 'dual stage' system, also got a small injector at the throttle and a large injector after, but facing towards.. the turbo... atomisation is perfect, doesnt pool or leave drops anywhere in the system, seems to help with heatsoak in the standard toss intercooler aswell

its powered by a 150psi pump put splits to twin release solenoids which are in turn controlled by the boost control switches, the pump is also uses a pressure regulator to stop it 'overflowing' and therefore hydro-locking, as said... not good :P

i was very very suprised at the difference it made, one of those 'see it to believe it' mods, got a temp probe system to fit and get some definitive results for it all aswell :) watch this space

[Jimlad]

Possibly have got my hands on a Blitz turbo... not 100% sure what it is tho.. but I should find out soon.

[KiwiMR2]

Mmmmmmm....Blitz KKK :)

but stronger than the ceramic material used in the stock ct26/20

There is an OEM Steel wheeled CT20B ;)

Cheers

KiwiMR2