Big List!

[zebidi]

ok, im getting a rev 3 turbo in a few weeks and i want to make it run as smoothly as possible. What parts would i have to replace for a 60k service? what is advisable? this is the list so far:

Service:

Cambelt £21

Oil filter £6

Distributor £33

Millers oil £35

Spark plugs £40

Ignition leads £70

Fuel filter £30

front discs £80

After the servicing i will be doing this over the next 6 months but hopefully if i'm lucky i can be ready for rotorstock Wink

Intercooler

Fuel pressure Regulator

Fuel pump 255l

Injectors 850cc

Fans on engine shroud

Decat bought already

Clutch bought already

Flywheel (lightened)

Tein superstreet with top mounts and EDFC

then a stage one tuning package with anti lag to map it all in from thor racing. anyone know about the mappers that are around? the good? the bad? and the REAL cow boys? also is there an on off switch for the anti lag? you gotta buy the link controller right?

the anti lag's the only reason im going for link, im an apexi fan myself but no anti lag. has anyone done anti lag on their rev3 tubby and how good is it?

the flywheel im getting is 50% reduced, i know lightness will make my top end suffer a little from not being able to keep momentum as well but has anyone done this?

the de-cat and intercooler, is it ESSENTIAL to get the mapping done at the same time as the installation of these items?

Any help would be much appreciated.

thanks a lot guys Wink

[msherry21]

what are you doing internals wise? If your uprating the injectors I would think about the internals too!!

[jaxx]

fitting for the cambelt can differ between 150 and 300 quid, depends who quotes and who you trust ;) get the tensioner done at the same time

i wouldnt bother with antilag on a standard manifold and turbo as they tend to melt/shatter (ask dawesy :P )

the link ECU is a good system (ken uses it) and THOR themselves will map it for you, about a grand fitted i think

[gump2000]

fitting for the cambelt can differ between 150 and 300 quid, depends who quotes and who you trust ;) get the tensioner done at the same time

i wouldnt bother with antilag on a standard manifold and turbo as they tend to melt/shatter (ask dawesy :P )

the link ECU is a good system (ken uses it) and THOR themselves will map it for you, about a grand fitted i think

I agree on the tensioner. you can buy the timing belt kit which comes with a belt and a tensioner and the idler pully. cost you about £60.

Also it's at least an 11 hour job usually to do the cam belt. coz there have been a lot of cases where the bottom crank pully seizes on to the crank and they are a real pig to separate. also dont loose your woodruff key otherwise your stuffed

[Jimlad]

ok, im getting a rev 3 turbo in a few weeks and i want to make it run as smoothly as possible. What parts would i have to replace for a 60k service? what is advisable? this is the list so far:

Service:

Cambelt £21

Oil filter £6

Distributor £33

Millers oil £35

Spark plugs £40

Ignition leads £70

Fuel filter £30

front discs £80

After the servicing i will be doing this over the next 6 months but hopefully if i'm lucky i can be ready for rotorstock Wink

Intercooler

Fuel pressure Regulator

Fuel pump 255l

Injectors 850cc

Fans on engine shroud

Decat bought already

Clutch bought already

Flywheel (lightened)

Tein superstreet with top mounts and EDFC

then a stage one tuning package with anti lag to map it all in from thor racing. anyone know about the mappers that are around? the good? the bad? and the REAL cow boys? also is there an on off switch for the anti lag? you gotta buy the link controller right?

the anti lag's the only reason im going for link, im an apexi fan myself but no anti lag. has anyone done anti lag on their rev3 tubby and how good is it?

the flywheel im getting is 50% reduced, i know lightness will make my top end suffer a little from not being able to keep momentum as well but has anyone done this?

the de-cat and intercooler, is it ESSENTIAL to get the mapping done at the same time as the installation of these items?

Any help would be much appreciated.

thanks a lot guys Wink

Toyota charge stupid prices for the cambelt change! my local garage will do it for £90! They know their stuff also!

Service:

Cambelt £21

Oil filter £6

Distributor £33

Millers oil £35

Spark plugs £40

Ignition leads £70

Fuel filter £30

front discs £80

Also remembter the rotor arm!! No point in doing dizzy cap if you don't do the rotor also, plus it's only a few £.

I wouldn't imagine you needing 850cc injectors on a stage 1 turbo mate. I also wouldn't recommend anti-lag, like jaxx said above, it eats turbos! Also the fans on the engine bay lid are expensive and I think you could spend your money more wisely tbh.

Also, look into the unichip mate, it also supports anti-lag and launch control.

[zebidi]

the guys at thor said that i can switch the anti lag on and off, i wont be using it all the time, and after all that a replacement manifold and turbo is on the cards.

i didnt want to go for a piggy back like unichip because i want a stand-alone that will do the job easier.

e.g:

unichip is sprinting

stand alone is strolling. lol

im looking to spend quite a bit over the next year. but the service is a definite first thing to do, apart from a whole week of t cutting lol.

thanks for all the advice though.

[jaxx]

you can always switch anti lag on and off, but regardless itll still kill your turbo very quickly ;)

[Jesus]

Also the fans on the engine bay lid are expensive and I think you could spend your money more wisely tbh.

I'd certainly recommend putting the money towards water/methanol injection as opposed to a few other items you've listed.

With all due respect, you're being very specific with injector size and fuel pump flow rate etc. How do you know you'll need increased fuelling? Do you monitor the AFR, fuel pressure, duty cycle, throttle position, boost etc at the minute to know what it's doing and when?

I'm running 1.3 bar boost on CT20b turbo (stock) with HKS Type S intercooler, HKS Racing Suction induction kit, custom increased diameter hard intercooler pipes with repositioned HKS SSQV BOV, Paul Port water/methanol injection (dual pump kit) and exiting through Aussie downpipe and HKS Super Drager exhaust (with custom H&S 3.5" centre section). TRD Iridium plugs (one grade colder than stock), TRD sports thermostat (cooling starts at 72oC not 82oC) and TRD high pressure coolant cap. It's eaten the stock clutch and I've just had an RPS Max Series clutch fitted (rated to 450lb/ft). I have the car permanently monitored and even on full boost (peaking just over 1.3 bar) I'm still hugely overfuelling, and that's on stock injectors with stock fuel pump. I have a race fuel pressure regulator to actually reduce the fuelling, but I'm yet to fit it. Won't do it until I can get it set up properly and checked through the entire rev range with different loading on the engine.

Really think your mods through carefully.

Oh... and it's not top end you'll necessary lose with a lightened flywheel... you'll notice the loss of torque the most. Just be prepared to keep the engine revving to work it...

[zebidi]

that was a brilliant reply.

I had come up with the list of modifications as thigns that i will need to eventually uprate the turbo.

If i was to increase the boost also i wanted something too big so it wouldnt be overworked i.e injectors fuel pump and regulator.

i hear lots of max powers that the 3sgte internals can take on stock internals. can someone tell me finally what it is? sometimes i hear 450 sometimes i hear 350 and then from a guy i know locally with a rev3 that you'd be lucky to get 325 out of it.

i havent purchased any of the fuelling items yet and i did look at the water cooling. will have to get that mapped in at the same time then :)

im still new to the MR2 and if i said i wanted around 400bhp in the end what should i start with now without replacing the turbo?

[Jimlad]

As always.. exhaust and induction kit. Help the car breath more easier!! Would also recommend a downpipe of some description would be advised!

If you do this first before anything else, you will most probably need some sort of FCD and boost controller as you may find the car will want to boost more with the free flowing exhaust.

[screechmr2]

i think the link just for anti lag isn't the best idea. why do you need anti-lag? if you want it just for launches you can get the power fc pro which will do the same. basically all you do is set the rev limit, put accelerator flat and it'll keep cutting the spark and dumping fuel into the exhaust making the turbo spin up.

getting 400bhp is relatively easy as long as you avoid ct hybrids and on standard internals, but i'd be worried about when the internals would let go, with the correct tuning and no problems they could last easily but if you have problems that cause detonation then they could let go (like mine did) in style, scoring the cylinders, cracking 2 pistons and destroying the oil pump.

jesus - the standard fuelling is not really any use after 350bhp and certainly not the 400 he wants, as the injectors will be above the safe limit of around 85% duty cycle at just 350bhp, no point maxing out the injectors when you can fit bigger ones that'll cope easily.

my spec is for 400+ with room for some improvements if i want to at a later date (forged pistons, forged crankshaft, sleeved cylinder block, forged conrods, turbo rated to 550ps etc) but due to mine going pop i've gone overkill, was set to around 400 on standard internals (detonated for a couple of months (incorrect fuelling due to split hose) and blew up when being remapped)

[Jesus]

jesus - the standard fuelling is not really any use after 350bhp and certainly not the 400 he wants, as the injectors will be above the safe limit of around 85% duty cycle at just 350bhp, no point maxing out the injectors when you can fit bigger ones that'll cope easily.

You're right in what you're saying. It wouldn't go for 400 on stock fuelling... but didn't realise he'd put a figure on what he was aiming for. Don't think he'd specified that when I wrote my response... ;)

Why is everyone so in to power figures instead of torque??? You must all be track drivers and drag strip heroes!!! :P

[dawesy]

ok as you probly know i run a MoTec M4 PRO ecu which i had antilag enabled on. point 1, i had a fennies stg2 ct20b with 360deg thrust bearing and steel shaft. i only ever used antilag for showing off at shows/ meets etc, in total about 30-45 mins use tops. after 8000 miles the turbo was stuffed. it will not be going on with the IHI RHX6 turbo thats for sure. plus antilag is unusable on the road (not to mention illeagal :) ) and gives very little benifit on the strip.

personaly, i would go for a good induction kit with a cold air box, exhaust system ( 3" is a good size to aim for) and a boost increase to 1.1 bar with an electronic boost controler along with an ERL auamist water injection system running 50/50 water / methanol. all this should see a heathy 310-330 bhp.

as for thor mixed reviews to be fair. ken had a link ecu fitted and mapped there and seems to be fine, however i have seen two GT4's mapped there

both had been drasticaly over fueling and one, which had been back a few times had signs of heavy det on the pison crowns and head. so seems to be you need to be careful. should be getting mine mapped there as ill need somewhere that does MoTec and has a dyno pack, but i will be watching what they're doing

[zebidi]

You're right in what you're saying. It wouldn't go for 400 on stock fuelling... but didn't realise he'd put a figure on what he was aiming for. Don't think he'd specified that when I wrote my response... ;)

Why is everyone so in to power figures instead of torque??? You must all be track drivers and drag strip heroes!!! :P

torque is VERY important, you do get tuning that are more biased towards torque (:P TOMEI are more focused on torque) and vice versa, but anything you do will inevitably increase both to a certain level. The way i look at it is bhp is watts and the torque is the RMS.

It's useless having mountains of bhp and sod all torque (unless you're dave from down the street that's maxed out with all his burberry gear)

I wanted to improve the fuelling so i didnt need to worry about it when i do go to uprate the more costly things, one more thing out of the way as it were. It'd also make the fuelling components work easier instead of the stock stuff always saying "i really don't wanna be doing this"

So i do need an FCD afterall? even though its a rev3? or is it when i uprate or go over the turbos capability that i need it? REV3 fuelling doesnt cut out till 18psi right?

as for thor mixed reviews to be fair. ken had a link ecu fitted and mapped there and seems to be fine, however i have seen two GT4's mapped there

both had been drasticaly over fueling and one, which had been back a few times had signs of heavy det on the pison crowns and head. so seems to be you need to be careful. should be getting mine mapped there as ill need somewhere that does MoTec and has a dyno pack, but i will be watching what they're doing

So there ARE a few cowboys there? would you mind PM'ing me the names of these cowboys?

[KiwiMR2]

So i do need an FCD afterall? even though its a rev3? or is it when i uprate or go over the turbos capability that i need it? REV3 fuelling doesnt cut out till 18psi right?

Not on the CT20b, I'd say with exhaust, intake, cooling, an ebc & aftermarket ecu you wouldn't need to go over 18 psi, a healthy Gen III with the above mods should net 300 RWHP on 16-18 psi.

Imnot a big fan of antilag either....just a turbo eater. You should be plesently surprised with the "streetability" of the 20b once all you basic mods are done.

IMO once you upgrade to a bigger turbo is the time you need to get the bigger injectors, AFAIC the OEM fuel pump is fine for 850cc, I know of at least 4 other MR2's running 850's on the OEM pump with no issues.

Cheers

KiwiMR2

[zebidi]

thanks for the knowledge. learning more every day. and i never get replies on the MR2OC.

fuel pump and regulator i'm changing because i'm worried about the age of the car. it's 1995 and i don't want anything to go wrong that can be easily replaced. I know Toyotas are the ULTIMATE in reliability though.

Just wanted to be that little bit safer and i just thought aftermarket brand spanking new bits couldnt go far wrong.

[dawesy]

never seen a stock FPR go down and stock fuel pump will be good for 300-340bhp. personaly id spen the money on getting a good cold air intake and a water injection system.

trust me just cos its after market dosnt mean better. most ppl who put on an induction kit LOOSE power as the engine is sucking in warm air. getting a proper cold air feed to the air filter will give good gains even if you keep the stock airbox and put a good quality panel filter in

[zebidi]

never seen a stock FPR go down and stock fuel pump will be good for 300-340bhp. personaly id spen the money on getting a good cold air intake and a water injection system.

trust me just cos its after market dosnt mean better. most ppl who put on an induction kit LOOSE power as the engine is sucking in warm air. getting a proper cold air feed to the air filter will give good gains even if you keep the stock airbox and put a good quality panel filter in

I got an ARC box on my list, could you tell me more about the water injection and how it works? would i have to map it in? what ecu can i use? I've considered the power FC, link and motec.

I wanted to do a WHOLE apex'i theme on my MR2 but the power FC doesn't seem to support water injection :(

I bought the dump valve and i have an RSM so far. thinking about the Apexi coilover kit but it is SO dear (think i'll just get the super streets). i think i will probably get the apexi bomber 2 exhaust aswell as i would like something that fits perfectly with the active silencer.

[KiwiMR2]

I had a PFC on my Gen III briefly prior to selling it, IMO Motec would be the best option if your set on those sort of power figures.

Cheers

KiwiMR2

[dawesy]

water injection can be used with the stock ecu and any after market ecu.

i dosnt have to be mapped in but if you run MoTec then you can have it mapped to air temp, boost etc.

the std system is activated at a set boost level by a pressure switch (supplied and adjustable) and you siply change the jet size to adjust water flow (you get three differint sized jets with the kit. instalation is very easy all you will need to get is a tank to hold your water injection water (old washer bottle, garden sprayer are all good).

there are other systems availiable other than ERL, but the ERL system is the neatest, most compact and reliable of the lot and is worth the extra IMO.

Apexi PFC is a very good ecu and mapping for it is availiale pretty much every where

[Jesus]

I'd still go with Paul Port's kit... but each to their own.

My temps never go above 30-35oC even when on full boost (1.3 bar) for any length of time... That's pretty much the same temps as running a FMIC on a front engined car.

It activates between 2500rpm and 5500rpm and increases flow linearly between 8psi and 16psi (all these settings can be adjusted too). i.e it won't flow the same amount of water/methanol when I'm on just 8psi boost as when it's on 16psi. Paul's done his own mini piggyback ecu for his kit.

I haven't tried the ERL system so I'm not going to make any comments or suggest not to buy it... but I do know that the equivalent kit to Paul Port's dual pump system (£320) is about £500+ from ERL.

Either way, it's definitely worth fitting. A big must for any non-stock MR2 to help control det.

[jaxx]

i still go with my home made system :D

around 200quid :D

[zebidi]

so i would have to get it set up to boost level if for the power FC? can i get that done by thor? or fensport? or any "dave" can do it?

[dawesy]

thor can do the power FC. Fensport dont have a rolling road so all mapping is done on the road. nobles in chesterfield also map power FC. you are best getting it all set up on the dyno as at least its a controlled environment and the dyno operator can listen for det whilst setting it up

[jaxx]

thor can do the power FC. Fensport dont have a rolling road so all mapping is done on the road. nobles in chesterfield also map power FC. you are best getting it all set up on the dyno as at least its a controlled environment and the dyno operator can listen for det whilst setting it up

do you know if nobles do eManage Lee?