3s-ge Conversion

May 1, 2006

Hi guys/girls,

I've just bought myself a Caldina GT with the Red Top VVT'i Beams engine, and was wondering weather I could replace the head and wiring loom with that of a dual beams unit. (My mate wrote off his altezza drifting into a power pole but the engine head is fine)

Also, can anyone tell me the power outputs for the two engines. Is 139kw for the dual beams or just the normal red top beams?

May 7, 2006

is that like 3sge head on a 3sfe block ?

or

am i wrong....again

May 16, 2006

Nope, That would be an absolute travesty. I'm wanting to know if the galleries and other major seal areas line up perfectly for two different types of 3sge heads. I need to know if all the things like oil pressures and flows are within tolerance so I don't stuff the camshaft bearings when running at full tilt. I'm pretty sure that they are but it would be good to know for sure. I'm okay at mechanics, I just like to have a second oppinion on my ideas.

At the moment I'm working on CAD/CAM using billet which will be heat treated for the VVT'i lobes on the cams. Making them a great deal more aggressive for better top end response and power.

I've already changed my computer to a custom aftermarket set up to allow me to break the 7,200 RPM Limiter toyota use. I have also had the bottom end, pistons, and conrods balancedand the block shaved by 0.5mm. Since I knew I wanted to change the head at some stage I haven't done anything to the standard beams head yet. Just modifying the dual beams head my mate gave me. (something went through the sump when he crashed it and stopped it cold, either that or it had stalled before impact leaving the head unscathed but the sealing area's on the bottom of the block wasted, I've had it UV checked for hairline fractures and damage but it's in great condition) . As far as I'm concerned it was free for me bar the cost of the billet and my time, so why not? And it's not like I'm that unhappy with the original performance. I've just got the modders bug.

May 18, 2006

Hey hey, thisis my first post here so HI!!! :D

Nice work you have done to your GT, also in aucks and have a caldina GT

As far as i know the beams duall vvti head won't blot straight up to the red top head...

Also the altezza runs a map sensor styleecu as the caldina's dont... Also, you have taken the rev limit off but wounlnt the auto box change the gear long before that? unless you have done a gearbox converion too??

I am keen to see what other mods you have done.. e.g. pod filters, cold air box? and such like that?

May 19, 2006

Hey dude. Not really in Auckland aye. I just say that because everyone might have a fair idea where it is. I actually live in Te Teko. Which is a little hole in the bay of plenty. Don't have a pod filter. Don't want to cut my engine life for a couple a kW. Not worth it.

The good filters in the caldina actually flow about the same amount of air as a pod filter and I wouldn't even consider touching a foam filter. All I've done is modify the existing airbox to get more air in and try to cut the turbulence down to provide slightly presurised stagnant air. Pods are notorious for creating swirling air patterns that kill flow at high flows. (good for lower down torque though) Turbulance at the air intake is bad, turbulence for mixing fuel at the injector ports is good. I figure they(Toyota) got the injector part right so I'll just take the aesthetic part of the airbox and bin it in favour of supplying nice fresh air from a slightly more convenient place.

All I've done is upgrade the oil cooler and use premium grade transmission oil for the gearbox.

The auto doesn't really trigger off the revs, it triggers from the rate of acceleration in comparison to the position of the accelerator. Hence light foot equals early change. There is a MAN. button right next to the gear stick which will hold the gear you select. The PWR. button requires less acceleration in relation to accelerator depression to maintain a lower gear.

I've also taken the Cat converter(Kept it in case our rules change though) out and gone for a mandel bent 2.5inch pipe off the factory extractors all the way to the standard muffler(I got a pink sticker for having a too loud car using a 3.5inch muffler and tip, some-one ****** the local cop off using my car in the past with an assumed runner in an MR2. (No proof it was me or that car, the original report had four of the six digits of the plate not matching as the cop couldn't make out the plates), they just assumed it was me(bright yellow MR2's pretty common here) when it wasn't) so anyway, I'm black booked locally no matter what I drive now even though case was dismissed in court). Anyway back to specs, all of the extractors I've seen for sale in my area so far have been virtual copies of the factory one anyway, just in a prettier colour. I'm gonna make my own once I get a reasonable design that will fit in the area I have to play with.

I haven't thought of touching the bodywork yet and still have factory mags (performance Pirelli rubber though). It's wicked letting older WRX STI's keep up till about halfway through the Rotoma's then blasting off at 8500rpm in second. They fall back pretty quick if you get my drift. (quite litterally in the wet). Station Wagon 1, sedan 0...hehehe. So at the moment a sleeper suits me fine.

May 20, 2006

Good stuff

You should look at drivenperformance.co.nz, he's my mate al, he does excellent mai\nifolds for the caldie... Also he owns TWSTD... lol

Im looking at doing a cold air box setup using an 80mm stainless or aloy pipe (same diamater as standard) and using a k&n pod or something... I have also had the cams done in mine as it seems to have made the biggest diffrence in my mates mr2 beams