New Wheels And Fli Sub (for Woody27!)

[Hexa-dB]

I just popped out to take a few quick pics of my sub for Woody and thought they may be useful for anyone else considering one. I've found it great - it's active so doesn't need a seperate amp, it doesn't take up too much room and it sounds great.

Also, I never got around to posting any pics of my new wheels so here's a couple of very quick pics:

I like them because they look quite similar to Koenig Unknowns but are actually cheap Halfords ones. There are black spokes in between the chrome ones that you can't see very well in the pics.

They'll probably fall apart after a year but I'm hoping to change car before that! For £300 including tyres I'm pretty pleased with them. :D

[Baby Yari]

Not too keen but thats a bit of a bargain you got yourself there! Get some lowering springs and it'll look ten times better mate!! Good effort all round!

[Woody27]

Cheers for that mate may get sub after all :D Doesn't take up half as much space as i had expected! O and have you tried with the sub facing both ways as doesnt that way make the boot rattle lots? Out of interest, anyone who is in the know, would have the speaker facing towards the seats cause any potential damage to the sub as doesn't it move air and if it has trouble moving this air wont it cause pressure against the subs skin surface? Just wondered! O also how is that sub secured in the back?

Btw paints looking shiney and would like to see those alloys in person before i make mind up as not too sure atm. Either way good for a halfrauds special

[DaveSR]

OOOoooooohhhhhh

Sub with no amp looks tempting ........ hows it wired up? (any more info you can tell me to tempt me?)

Plus are the seats fully back?

The wheels don't look to bad either, just a bit Beefy :D

[Hexa-dB]

OOOoooooohhhhhh

Sub with no amp looks tempting ........ hows it wired up? (any more info you can tell me to tempt me?)

Plus are the seats fully back?

The wheels don't look to bad either, just a bit Beefy :D

The wiring was pretty simple - The only tricky bit was poking the Battery wire through the grommet into the passenger side, under the glove box. And possibly finding an earth point (there's a proper one on the rear suspension turret, which is why there's a wire visible). Altogether there was a power cable to the Battery, one or two signal cables (can't remember if it uses a combined stereo signal or a mono!), a remote cable (so it only comes on when the head unit is on) and the earth cable. The only places that the wires are visible is where they emerge in the boot, the earth cable and the Battery cable in the engine bay.

I think the seats are fully back but I'm not 100% sure. It definitely fits in easily with them back.

Other things that might tempt you? Hmmm..

- It sounds really nice, and is loud enough to make my rear view mirror vibrate.

- I can still fit a week's shopping in the boot!

- It was only £89 (+ about £20 for the wiring kit)

- FLI stuff is designed (and or) built by Vibe who seem to have a pretty good rep.

- Not sure how true it is but the bloke in the shop said the 10" version was more punchy and nicer sounding than the bigger 12" (apparently he had the 12" and swapped it for the smaller one).

And best of all there's a little pic of a fly on the speaker cone that everyone seems to double-take at, thinking it's a real one. :)

[Woody27]

Dammit your tempting me aswell!! :P Tempted to go pioneer emotions up front first though! Then save the pennies for a amped set of emotion 6*9s and then decide if i need the extra bass. Gona cost me alot :(

[RossP]

Theres no decision to be made on the extra bass. Pioneer E-Motions are sweet as, only other Speakers i'd put in would Be Alpine Type R's. You'll put the Speakers in and to start with you'll be like 'Wow, the bass is really good'. Then you just crave more...the the sub comes...

[Woody27]

Lol fair enough you made my mind up then! :D But yeah i used to large JVC stereo in room with twin subs and twin sub port/bass tubes so like my bass at times! I like all types of music (like some good old school rock) but when your feeling angry some aggressive driving music with bass usually helps :P (playing at the moment to get me through stressful coursework deadlines!)

[viperroom_112]

Hey I do like the wheels and sub woofer ! yes it is true the 10" sub should be punchier ! as the bigger the subwoofer the more effort is needed to move it ! i.e a 15" will be a lot deeper bass wise but will not punch as hard as a 10" ! !

Personally I would get it lowered , the yaris sits up way to high , but the wheels are sweet mate ! :D

[clarky]

Wheel and sub looking sweet - might need to lower a little to help - but nice nonetheless and very shiney

[Hexa-dB]

Hey I do like the wheels and sub woofer ! yes it is true the 10" sub should be punchier ! as the bigger the subwoofer the more effort is needed to move it ! i.e a 15" will be a lot deeper bass wise but will not punch as hard as a 10" ! !

Personally I would get it lowered , the yaris sits up way to high , but the wheels are sweet mate ! :D

Wheel and sub looking sweet - might need to lower a little to help - but nice nonetheless and very shiney

Thanks! Means a lot coming from you guys, having seen pics of your cars

[DaveSR]

What inputs did you need from the HU? I have some 6*9's in the back - can I use that cable/did you?

And anybody have an idea on this remote cable?

[Hexa-dB]

What inputs did you need from the HU? I have some 6*9's in the back - can I use that cable/did you?

And anybody have an idea on this remote cable?

From the head unit there's a signal cable (or two, I can't remember!) and the remote lead. I was a bit concerned about the remote bit but I found it in the HU instructions. There's also a (fused) power cable that comes from the Battery. The HU manual had some examples that showed one of the preamp outputs going to a sub, and then there was a setting on the HU to switch that output from full range to sub (and set the cutoff frequency etc).

The wiring was all from a packaged "amp wiring kit" that the shop guy suggested.

I haven't got any rear Speakers, just the door/dash ones. I upgraded the door ones, but used the autoleads adaptor so I didn't have to touch the wiring.

I can try and take some pics of the wires that go into the back of the sub if you like?

[Woody27]

That Active sub takes a preout input from the HU not from a speaker cable like you are suggesting DaveSR. Im pretty sure you need the passive one for that. O and yeah it usually takes two inputs (a left right Audio, white and Red.) Need to double check with that passive wiring as i aint looked into them but pretty sure its as i say. O and for wiring your best bit is an amp wiring kit as then you should have all the bits you need!

[seveer unaek]

That Active sub takes a preout input from the HU not from a speaker cable like you are suggesting DaveSR. Im pretty sure you need the passive one for that. O and yeah it usually takes two inputs (a left right Audio, white and Red.) Need to double check with that passive wiring as i aint looked into them but pretty sure its as i say. O and for wiring your best bit is an amp wiring kit as then you should have all the bits you need!

True, it does take a preout/phono input, but if a standard headunit is present, then either a high-level (speaker level) input on the sub/amp is required, or a simple high-to-low level converter is to be bought. No more than a fiver at any decent car store (even halfrauds!)

[DaveSR]

That Active sub takes a preout input from the HU not from a speaker cable like you are suggesting DaveSR. Im pretty sure you need the passive one for that. O and yeah it usually takes two inputs (a left right Audio, white and Red.) Need to double check with that passive wiring as i aint looked into them but pretty sure its as i say. O and for wiring your best bit is an amp wiring kit as then you should have all the bits you need!

True, it does take a preout/phono input, but if a standard headunit is present, then either a high-level (speaker level) input on the sub/amp is required, or a simple high-to-low level converter is to be bought. No more than a fiver at any decent car store (even halfrauds!)

Cheers folks im kinda tempted ....... I would be running it of the OEM HU so I guess I would need to buy/fit a filter !

[viperroom_112]

as far as I was concerned , active subwoofers , use a lo-pass filter anyway , therefore all that is needed is an RCA cable to the amp ,, the amp should do the rest , i.e split the signal !

David

[seveer unaek]

as far as I was concerned , active subwoofers , use a lo-pass filter anyway , therefore all that is needed is an RCA cable to the amp ,, the amp should do the rest , i.e split the signal !

David

The OEM headunit doesn't have pre-outs... so there can be no low-level output, no RCA/phono output. It has to be high-level output from a spliced speaker wire which is then converted to low-level/RCA output with a converter box, or if the amp supports a high-level input then plug the conncetion into there.

Im running two subs... one is an active sub which takes a high-level input straight in. The other is a passive sub, so it requires an amplifier... the amp has no high-level input, so im using a high-to-low level converter to make the signal low-level/RCA cable compatable. Im also now running rear Speakers from the amp and my fronts need extra oomph... new HU maybe on the shopping list!

[Gnome]

Mate has that exact sub - only got it a few weeks back.

Sounds awesome in the car, even if it is a Corsa... :D

[DaveSR]

as far as I was concerned , active subwoofers , use a lo-pass filter anyway , therefore all that is needed is an RCA cable to the amp ,, the amp should do the rest , i.e split the signal !

David

The OEM headunit doesn't have pre-outs... so there can be no low-level output, no RCA/phono output. It has to be high-level output from a spliced speaker wire which is then converted to low-level/RCA output with a converter box, or if the amp supports a high-level input then plug the conncetion into there.

Im running two subs... one is an active sub which takes a high-level input straight in. The other is a passive sub, so it requires an amplifier... the amp has no high-level input, so im using a high-to-low level converter to make the signal low-level/RCA cable compatable. Im also now running rear Speakers from the amp and my fronts need extra oomph... new HU maybe on the shopping list!

Whats the difference between and active sub and a passive sub?

Mate has that exact sub - only got it a few weeks back.

Sounds awesome in the car, even if it is a Corsa... :D

Don't say that as im really tempted ....... but connecting it up seems the problem !

Just found this. The earth and power cable I can do but not the remote or RCA. Can these be taken from the OEM HU?

[Woody27]

Dude just get an aftermarket HU and make it easier plus improve sound upfront! Can be got cheap now so will make front sound better anyway which will help balance sound! otherwise have a amp'd sub and no mid to high! Get a HU and bung in space below as cheap as chips! I got mine with ISO lead delivered for £100 n it pioneer with 2 preouts, 4*50W, Aux in, Mp3 Cd! Wat else you need? Makes much more sense n u knows it! Whats point in spending lots on sub etc when it would sound better from a HU preout? :P

[DaveSR]

Dude just get an aftermarket HU and make it easier plus improve sound upfront! Can be got cheap now so will make front sound better anyway which will help balance sound! otherwise have a amp'd sub and no mid to high! Get a HU and bung in space below as cheap as chips! I got mine with ISO lead delivered for £100 n it pioneer with 2 preouts, 4*50W, Aux in, Mp3 Cd! Wat else you need? Makes much more sense n u knows it! Whats point in spending lots on sub etc when it would sound better from a HU preout? :P

But you still have to pay £100 for the new HU which I wouldn't really want to if it could be powered from the OEM HU. If I just had a tape player then I would but I don't and I don't see the point tbh.

Plus installing a new HU will attract unwanted eyes ;) !

I want to do it off the OEM HU ....... I feel a long conversation with seveer coming on

I don't want chav loud but I wouldn't mind someting decent

[Woody27]

Yeah i was just thinking for clarity and balance! Could always get less in your face one and they all have removable fascias now-a-days anyway so not really a problem! O and have you got front uprated Speakers? As the new HU should drive them better so bring out better sound in current system aswell as boosting future system. And you can puts LOADS of songs on MP3 Cd which saves changing and also can whack an MP3 player into AUX in when your mates come in car to show you good song or on your own mp3. Of course its up to you but i just feel building from the HU backwards makes more sense as it is a platform for the rest.

[Woody27]

Lol i feel so strongly about this i accidently double posted!

[seveer unaek]

It can all be done off the OEM headunit very easily! I've done it! (Granted, im an amateur computer technician, TV/video/Playstation/Hi-Fi repair man and iv set up a lot of home-cinema systems and 6 different car systems for different cars but I learnt through asking and guessing!)

An active sub is one which has a power-supply built into it. A passive sub is one which can be just connected to a speaker wire, but won't work very well unless you amplify it. (Passive and an amp will give more power and better quality)

Ok, if you bought an active sub (like the Fly thing) then you need to run a power cable to it direct from the Battery (make sure it's fused correctly!) you then need to run an earth as short as possible from the sub to the chassis.

The remote turn-on cable can take a feed from the ACC wire which activates the Head-unit... a grey one I believe which plugs directly into the Head-Unit. Either strip the wire, splice and insulate, or do it properly by putting a small junction/jack box/switch in. Then run your subs remote wire along the same route as the power cable.

To allow the sub to receive an audio signal from the OEM headunit, you need to splice the cables that feed one of your Speakers (if you have rears it's easiest to take it from that line) then convert this signal to a low-level signal using a high-to-low crossover box (maplins, £4.99) which has speaker cables connected to it that will splice onto your connection. Then run your RCA/Phono cables from the back of this box to your sub.

Make sure it's all wired up properly and that the power cables run the opposite side of the car to the speaker/rca cables and it should then work! You've just got to fiddle with the frequency and gain to get the sound you want!

The only problem I've encountered with using the standard headunit (and I have uprated door and dash Speakers, rear Speakers, under-seat sub, sub and amp in boot and an MP3 player going in) is that it's not quite loud enough! It runs out of puff! It's loud enough for town driving, but if you want to hear the music at motorway speeds (and I mean hear it... volume is good!) then it's lacking in ability. Just when a favourite track comes on, I go to turn it up and realise that im at maximum volume! D'oh! But, there is no lack of clarity, quality or depth when it's at it's max!

So, OEM headunit can be used for almost everything, but an upgraded HU is better, except for security and for keeping the dash looking as good.